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Slow going, as I jacked up my back and hip some mountain biking. Exhaust spacers (about 1" lower. Most of you with OCD will not like it, although, I may be able to re-position the exhaust tip to fit better) installed, subframe drop on the both sides of the rear, and one side of the rear lift done.
I really struggled to get the droop needed to fit the strut back in. I ended up having to drop the subframe again.
I loosened all the suspension points, as Eurowise recommends, but only was able to accomplish this after spending the best $43 ever on a huge, ratcheting breaker bar from Home Depot.
I'm not sure how I've done any suspension work without this thing. I find I have the wimpy 18v Ryobi impact wrench that can't loosen anything. Also found the quarters cramped to get to some of the suspension bolts, so, also needed a short well impact set.
I wasn't going to film this, initially, but I couldn't find another build thread for a Q7, so I ended up deciding to film it and I'll probably post it on my Turo YouTube channel.
I also took some timelapses, or at least I thought I had, but somehow after the first, the gopro changed itself back to video. I have the screen set to locked, so I would have had to consciously unlocked the screen and then changed it back.
So, now I have like 10 videos that I thought were timelapses. Actually surprised it didn't overheat and shut down like it usually does when on video.
I think GoPro is finally going to force me to buy a Chinese action camera. I last had a gopro a decade ago, and it was trash, this Hero 10 Black is also trash. These guys never seem to get any better.
This was taken with one of the new Meta Rayban set of glasses that take pics and video. It doesn't do well in low light, as you can see. They compare it to an Iphone 12's camera, and I'd say that's about right.
Could be wrong, but I believe those ride height sensors (on a steel susp Q7) are tied into function of the auto-leveling HID headlights, brakeforce distribution, and likely the stability control system uses data input from them as well...probs linked into few other things too on this car.
Definitely agree the best tool I have besides VCDS scan tool is an extra long breaker bar.
Last edited by '10Q7TDI_Prestige'; 12-27-2023 at 01:19 PM.
Could be wrong, but I believe those ride height sensors (on a steel susp Q7) are tied into function of the auto-leveling HID headlights, brakeforce distribution, and likely the stability control system uses data input from them as well...probs linked into few other things too on this car.
Definitely agree the best tool I have besides VCDS scan tool is an extra long breaker bar.
Thanks. Hopefully the change in ride height doesn't affect those systems, or I'd guess I'll have to figure out how to have them recalibrated. I don't have the auto-leveling headlights. I know this much.
The entire rear subframe and lift is done. Have the swaybar off for now. That... is a SOLID departure angle, lol.(magnified by the current rake with the front end still down)
You actually do:
From pics above, your 2012 has the 'facelift' HID headlamp housings, which incorporate a motor to adjust for vertical movement/auto-leveling of the projectors. So if you turn on the car key in garage or at night with headlight switch set to Auto, the HID lights turn on and go through a self-check sequence where they, in unison, first depress fully, then elevate fully, and then return to normal level/preset starting position. Adjustment of headlight aim is a dual, adaptation/manual adjustment process to change the default aim of the HID projector units. I generally keep my headlight switch in the Auto setting, so I see the self-check movement often. The pre-facelift, halogen housings did not have auto-leveling. I had a headlight control unit fault prior, so I learned a bunch about this stuff trying to fix my issue, which I did once purchased VCDS scan tool.
The adaptive HIDs housings are way cooler, as they track the steering wheel input (moving the projectors aim horizontally into corners), so you can see better through curves, and also includes a slow-speed/parking assist 'corner' light inside the housing that fades in based on steering angle.
You actually do:
From pics above, your 2012 has the 'facelift' HID headlamp housings, which incorporate a motor to adjust for vertical movement/auto-leveling of the projectors. So if you turn on the car key in garage or at night with headlight switch set to Auto, the HID lights turn on and go through a self-check sequence where they, in unison, first depress fully, then elevate fully, and then return to normal level/preset starting position. Adjustment of headlight aim is a dual, adaptation/manual adjustment process to change the default aim of the HID projector units. I generally keep my headlight switch in the Auto setting, so I see the self-check movement often. The pre-facelift, halogen housings did not have auto-leveling. I had a headlight control unit fault prior, so I learned a bunch about this stuff trying to fix my issue, which I did once purchased VCDS scan tool.
The adaptive HIDs housings are way cooler, as they track the steering wheel input (moving the projectors aim horizontally into corners), so you can see better through curves, and also includes a slow-speed/parking assist 'corner' light inside the housing that fades in based on steering angle.
That would make sense, with the sensors, but I actually think there may be two versions of the cool looking housings(I totally agree). One with the movable, and one without. I have to either replace or repair one of mine, so I've spent a lot of time on Ebay. This confused me at first, as some of them aren't even listed correctly.
I have the 4L0 941 003 AK housings, which are non-AFS. audi calls them Q7; w/Xenon; w/o Curve Lighting the other is 4L0-941-030-AL
The really weird thing, is that the OEM parts stores charge $300 less for the AFS ? Maybe it doesn't come with the motor ? That is $212 at least one place I looked.
Wondering if the intern that said “Hey, why don’t we just put this bolt here” ever made it into the auto industry. Guessing he made it to GM and designed the mid 2010’s impala.
I’d bet the guy that decided to put this bolt here is EVERY audi technicians favorite Now, I get to buy a new windshield.
I gave up trying to get around the shroud, and was going to remove the windshield wiper, but like most audi connectors, it wasn’t interested in budging and I tried to put a little pressure on the hood arm and it slipped off and barely touched the windshield, and… whoo hoo.
There have definitely been some areas that looked like tired engineers wanted to go home for the day.
Overcame that snafu... got the front suspension on both sides out, and partially assembled.
Might have an issue with a missing part for the level sensor on the drivers side. I think there is an adjustable replacement arm that comes with the air suspension kit that probably also should come with this coil spring strut kit.
I'll see tomorrow.
Get the arms attached, do the subframe drop, and install the suspension at the same time, and start on the front end radiator mount replacement and Winch mount hopefully.
28mm spacers and 90mm studs are on the way.
Dreams of the JST or Eurowise coilovers will have to be just that, for now. They show as out of stock at Eurowise now.
12-25-2023, 07:09 AM
