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Here's a compilation listing for the HID headlight housings...basically (ROW) Rest of World/Euro headlamps vs. North American. The Euro coded housing offer better projectors, with tighter cutoff and improved down-road lighting compared to the housings specced for North American market. You can use either the non-AFS, or the AFS housings on the Q7, but you'd want to have same on both sides obviously.
Driver's side housing is normally priced higher than passenger side. If you just need the one side, I'd suggest searching the Euro housing's part # related to the better performance it offers, and don't forget that you can buy the OEM part for less w/o the Audi brand on it, (VALEO for example) etc.
European Lights 4L0 941 029 AC – Bi‐Xenon Lamp – Left 4L0 941 030 AC – Bi‐Xenon Lamp – Right 4L0 941 029 AD – Adaptive Bi‐Xenon Lamp – Left 4L0 941 030 AD – Adaptive Bi‐Xenon Lamp – Right
North American Lights 4L0 941 029 AK – Bi‐Xenon Lamp – Left 4L0 941 030 AK – Bi‐Xenon Lamp ‐ Right 4L0 941 029 AL – Adaptive Bi‐Xenon Lamp ‐ Left 4L0 941 030 AL – Adaptive Bi‐Xenon Lamp ‐ Right
If you buy new housings, they are generally 'bare', meaning no bulbs or ballasts included, so you have to swap those over. If you buy used, you get whatever the seller says you get. From what I gather, the 'tri-xenon'/adaptive housings will function normally on a car that was not originally optioned with them, as they have an additional controller mounted on the housing to manage their additional features, etc. Might be a coding change required inside the car, of course.
Here's a dedicated thread on this topic, which discusses conversion kit for the pre-facelift models, and lots more details around the HID housings, turn signals, etc., etc. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ghts-Installed
Last edited by '10Q7TDI_Prestige'; 12-30-2023 at 07:13 PM.
Reason: add link to reference thread on headlamps upgrades
Here's a compilation listing for the HID headlight housings...basically (ROW) Rest of World/Euro headlamps vs. North American. The Euro coded housing offer better projectors, with tighter cutoff and improved down-road lighting compared to the housings specced for North American market. You can use either the non-AFS, or the AFS housings on the Q7, but you'd want to have same on both sides obviously.
Driver's side housing is normally priced higher than passenger side. If you just need the one side, I'd suggest searching the Euro housing's part # related to the better performance it offers, and don't forget that you can buy the OEM part for less w/o the Audi brand on it, (VALEO for example) etc.
European Lights 4L0 941 029 AC – Bi‐Xenon Lamp – Left 4L0 941 030 AC – Bi‐Xenon Lamp – Right 4L0 941 029 AD – Adaptive Bi‐Xenon Lamp – Left 4L0 941 030 AD – Adaptive Bi‐Xenon Lamp – Right
North American Lights 4L0 941 029 AK – Bi‐Xenon Lamp – Left 4L0 941 030 AK – Bi‐Xenon Lamp ‐ Right 4L0 941 029 AL – Adaptive Bi‐Xenon Lamp ‐ Left 4L0 941 030 AL – Adaptive Bi‐Xenon Lamp ‐ Right
If you buy new housings, they are generally 'bare', meaning no bulbs or ballasts included, so you have to swap those over. If you buy used, you get whatever the seller says you get. From what I gather, the 'tri-xenon'/adaptive housings will function normally on a car that was not originally optioned with them, as they have an additional controller mounted on the housing to manage their additional features, etc. Might be a coding change required inside the car, of course.
Here's a dedicated thread on this topic, which discusses conversion kit for the pre-facelift models, and lots more details around the HID housings, turn signals, etc., etc. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ghts-Installed
thanks. I think I'm going to at least try to replace just the lens on this one that is cracked. I need a new heat gun anyway. Definitely would prefer to not spend $400-$2k for a used or new one. Looks like the lense Kit's run less than $100, but involve some work. Crap thing is, I had just done my second 3M buffing kit on these and they looked almost new...
Good progress on the front end repair, and the lift/subframe lowering. Steam cleaned and power-washed the entire front end as well.
Will probably need the adjustable arm for the suspension level sensor from Eurowise. Unfortunately, Eurowise has pics of an air suspension install for the coil spring install. Not really helpful. So hopefully people will reference what I've done.
I'd guess, maybe no one has done a Q7 garage lift yet ? Maybe all the installs have been commissioned, and the vehicles done by Eurowise. Maybe I'll start something here and others will feel froggy and do their own.
It's really not that hard. (Says the guy that is not finished yet...) I absolutely will spend hundreds, to have a company like JeepMasters, local here to align this beast once I'm done. I'll still have saved a good bit by doing the install myself.
Looks really good! The control arms are majorly beefy compared to stock.
They are, but the cast aluminum arms sure are pretty. Surprised something that thin can take that much abuse.
Another meeting with attorney's today about our, now, year ago car wreck, and see what Progressive is going to come with, and when, hopefully.
Still would like to swap the Audi suspension with the blocks with coilovers, that might facilitate that, except it seems that ALL my other vehicles are also in some stage of disrepair. Miata is getting a new transmission/clutch, BMW is throwing codes, and the Cayman is due an intermediate service.
The Lightning just came back from 33 days at the dealership for a recall, too. FF'ing cars... I probably just need to get into E-bikes or something.
Eurowise has been super-responsive, and already has the sensor arms on the way for the front and rear suspension. Hoping the spacers and studs arrive soon.
No life, or project changing sums, from the settlement. It will actually, be less, after medical bills, for two broken ribs, than I've paid to Progressive for policies, over the year and a half I was a progressive customer with no claims ending last year due to a 70% increase in rates.
I'm not a fan of progressive, and if you get in an accident with a progressive customer, just assume you need an attorney to take them to court. What they offered the first time was an insult. Taking them to court got at least 10 times what the initial offer was, for what was for me, months of pain, and worse... no projects, and ruined an out of country trip that was supposed to be a surfing trip, but ended up just being sight seeing.
Rant over. I will be using some of it, likely for the Wilco swingout hitchmount spare carrier.
Should get the front suspension installed today, and I imagine the winch mount tomorrow. Just waiting on the spacers, studs, and sensor arms.
Well, that's not how that was supposed to go. Think it's time for a new torque wrench.
but the other side of the front is torqued and in.
Get the other side done when the sensor rods come, hopefully the spacers and studs come, then get the suspension loaded(put the wheels on and drop it), and torque all the suspension points, then figure out what all needs to be cut, and how to do that the best. Not sure I'm going to make it to the winch mount today. We got the new hall sensor actuators in for the Lightning charger, so, I've been working on that.
Ouch! Long bolts can be a bit tricky when it comes to torquing, because they will absorb more of the torque within their length than a shorter(stock length) bolt, which essentially results in increased overall torque to reach the spec on the wrench setting. One thing that can help is to add some lubricant, such as Sil-Glyde, to the threads to ensure there isn't any extra resistance in the bolt than necessary, then decrease your torque setting by about 5% (of stock torque spec) per inch of bolt length beyond the stock length. OR, you can replace the bolts with Grade 8 quality (generally a brass-colored bolt); these kits usually come with Grade 5 hardware.
Your photo there reinforces why I always torque by feel except for in situations where precise torque truly matters (such as head bolts).
Sorry to hear your settlement didn't meet your expectations. If nothing else, at least that's one thing out of the way now, and you can move onward and upward with your life.
Ouch! Long bolts can be a bit tricky when it comes to torquing, because they will absorb more of the torque within their length than a shorter(stock length) bolt, which essentially results in increased overall torque to reach the spec on the wrench setting. One thing that can help is to add some lubricant, such as Sil-Glyde, to the threads to ensure there isn't any extra resistance in the bolt than necessary, then decrease your torque setting by about 5% (of stock torque spec) per inch of bolt length beyond the stock length. OR, you can replace the bolts with Grade 8 quality (generally a brass-colored bolt); these kits usually come with Grade 5 hardware.
Your photo there reinforces why I always torque by feel except for in situations where precise torque truly matters (such as head bolts).
Sorry to hear your settlement didn't meet your expectations. If nothing else, at least that's one thing out of the way now, and you can move onward and upward with your life.
Yeah, I am somewhat concerned with possible softness in these bolts, but from a stress level I wonder how much they actually take. Once the suspension is in, the strut top is pretty much captured, but I will replace all those.
The settlement, is complaints about some decidedly first world "suffering" but Progressive and I go way back, too. I've paid them extortion insurance rates over the last year, So I'm not even going to get back what I've paid them in the last 12 months for their customer that ran a red light and broke my G/F leg, and a couple of my ribs. Ruined a vacation we had earned in stress at work for the previous year, so I'm glad we'll be moving forward, and will have at least a slight amount of restitution, or WTH are paying in for? I think I've had one insurance claim in my driving life, for a tree that fell on my mustang in a wind storm.
I'd guess I'm six figures in on insurance payments. Anyway, per my attorney, if you are in an accident and the other driver at fault has progressive, just go ahead and get an attorney, and expect it to take a year or more. They apparently insure too many crappy drivers, and don't charge them enough.
Should get back to the build this weekend. Been waiting on some parts(should be here tomorrow- studs and spacers), and my health let me down for a week and a half, and I'm a surgery in, and now short one, stupidly, fairly useless, organ. Dumb bodies...
Time to get the Wilco offroad swingout carrier ordered as well.
***ordered. Wilco is selling out an earlier version of their hitchgate offset swingout for $850.00 What a Dealo! It has some issues that are fairly easily fixed, for about $50. The new version is $1500, so I'm calling that a win at least right now.
12-30-2023, 07:07 PM
Headlight Housings: Better Reference Options
