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As long as you don't start it, no. As mentioned before, too much oil can start blowing out oil seals from the extra pressure in cases, general leaks etcetera.
Time to check the manual and double check if it is filled properly.
This method of regeneration depends on the distance traveled. It safeguards the DPF from exceeding unhealthy levels of saturation. The ECU automatically triggers active regeneration when no regeneration has been activated in the last 750-1000 kilometers, regardless of the saturation level.
It might seem the dpf have exceeded the threshold for clogging. So Can I use the above method (600km drive) to clean it? If the DPF is completely clogged causing engine light to come on and power loss, what can I do then? I want to avoid Audi and do not have the scan tools mentioned in the previous posts.
Also, where is the DF located? Can I remove and clean DIY?
Do go make a search and you will find both videos and multiple articles, as well as products you can source that are meant to pour in the fuel t captured particles combust at lower temperatures/support their conversion to ash. You should focus on what you, or a local mechanic can do to manually start the regen process, given how clogged up your system is currently. It's not important to drive fast, but rather to keep the revs up well over 2000rpm by using tiptronic shift to keep it in a lower gear for the revs to be high enough to support the cleaning cycle. Do be sure your air filter on car is not clogged prior to attempting.
Manual cleaning of the DPF is normally done with it on the car, but generally on a lift for easier access to it under the car (videos online). It requires a specialty DPF cleaner fluid and spray head to be used with a pressure bottle/pump-up spray rig, etc. There's a bolt for access at top of the DPF body to get a spray head in there, etc., but don't try to half-A$$ this type of service by jumping steps, as you don't know what you are doing. It's waay easier to simply start the manual regen process and try that a few times first; the direct spray cleaner is actually for removing excessive ash buildup...your's apparently hasn't been doing regen cycles to burn the particles down into ash, as you don't drive it in a manner that supports the automated regen cycles, which requires distance/time and hot exhaust. Diesels excel at long distance driving and hate, hate, hate constant short trips that never get them up to their operating temperature.
Yes, if you've got a MIL lamp lit on dash, it's not going to allow anything to happen until the MIL is cleared; thus the need for a sufficient diagnostic scan tool you can manage this car with (VCDS). There won't be anything you can do personally, once the MIL lamp is lit, if you don't have the required scantool to interface with this car, scan the car fully for faults, and clear them. You don't want to pull the battery post on this car, as that creates fault codes in every single module on the car, which again, you'd need a VAG-compatible diagnostic scantool to view all the internal trouble codes & clear.
Your only way forward is to locate a shop or someone near you that has a VAG-compatible scantool, or buy one for yourself, which seems like the no-brainer, since you will obviously need one going forwards, especially if you don't live close to a shop or dealer, etc. You really can't repair/fix/service this car w/o having the required scantool to interface with the car; that's just how it is, and it's the best money you will ever spend concerning your Audi.
Last edited by '10Q7TDI_Prestige'; 02-18-2022 at 05:27 PM.
Just a quick feedback. I bought a maxidiag md 806 pro. Checked the codes and only DPF showing. I saved the codes and cleared them. I went to DPF service function to try forced regeneration and it showed "no data for this system". Now that the codes were cleared, engine light not showing anymore, I took the car for a ride at bove 2000rpms and the engine light did not come back on. Is there anything wrong with this?
I made a quick scan and found 19-CAN gateway fault and seat memory. What is this? I suppose the gateway is the radio which i do not have to worry about?
It didnt throw the code just 19-can gateway fault.
what about my first question? Just cleared the engine sign and drove above 2000 rpms, limp mode is gone, no engine sign, no dpf sign. Is this ok? This are the codes I got for DPF and just cleared them and the engine light disappeared.
Will 1 liter overfill cause immediate damage? Vehicle scanned and it shows dpf. What liquid can be used in the fuel tank to clean the dpf?
If you have OVERFILLED your oil in error by an entire liter, you need to remove some oil, or you risk blowing out the seals...an extra liter would cause significant harm to the engine and emissions systems...all that extra oil has got to go somewhere.
I looked up that scan tool model details, and didn't see anywhere that said it was VAG-compatible; it just said was compatible with many brands and OBD2 interfaces, so be very sure it actually calls out that it is Volkswagen Auto Group compatible, or it won't be very useful to you. Turning off the CEL via tool doesn't mean your problem is gone, but hopefully it did manage a regeneration cycle after you cleared the codes and drove it, keeping the revs/exhaust temps up to support the regen cycle.
Here's some info on DPF products use/ what they do/when to use them:
I would bet that scanner can not talk to the Audi. In VCDS you can command a regen, but I have a gas, never played with a diesel.
If you drove around for over 20 minutes it should have been enough for a regen, but longer is better.
02-15-2022, 10:50 PM
