Q7 2007, start problem
09-09-2016, 12:39 PM
#1
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Q7 2007, start problem
Hi guys,
I have an Audi Q7 2007 with 60,xxx miles, and recently it has an issue when i press the start engine button.
First attempt, the car wouldn't start, so i have to press stop and start engine again and the car will start.
Please suggest.
Thank you,
I have an Audi Q7 2007 with 60,xxx miles, and recently it has an issue when i press the start engine button.
First attempt, the car wouldn't start, so i have to press stop and start engine again and the car will start.
Please suggest.
Thank you,
09-09-2016, 07:09 PM
#2
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Most likely battery. Mine started doing that in December of last year so I replaced battery and all has been well. When was the last time you replaced the battery?
09-09-2016, 07:58 PM
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I checked the battery status and it showed me 100%.
I thought it could be spark plugs.
09-09-2016, 08:13 PM
#4
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If it's still the same battery from Audi it is WAY overdue. Batteries should be changed out around every 4 years. Maybe 5 if you live in a warmer climate. I'm surprised it lasted this long with no issues. You can get the battery at Autozone, they have a book with all of the batteries they sell for the Q7. They have batteries ranging from $150-$300.. I would recommend the most expensive version as it was a better brand and the one I have had for almost a year with no issues... Although I don't remember what it is called, it was the best one. Do not go to Audi. They will charge you $500+ for something you can do in a half hour in your driveway.
I would only worry about spark plugs if the car was cranking for a while before starting. Or if there is a noticble misfire when it's running. But still not a bad idea to change them out if they haven't been changed out yet, even though I'm almost certain they aren't related to your issue.
And about the battery status in the MMI, it is highly inaccurate. Mine never showed the battery was low until the vehicle was actually dead and wouldn't start in the grocery store parking lot. All of the prior weeks and months of having to push start/stop 2 times before the vehicle had enough juice to start the MMI said it had 100%, when it obviously didn't because it couldn't crank the engine on the first try.
Also, on a side note, Have you replaced your HID bulbs yet?. Youre probably well overdue on those as well.
I would only worry about spark plugs if the car was cranking for a while before starting. Or if there is a noticble misfire when it's running. But still not a bad idea to change them out if they haven't been changed out yet, even though I'm almost certain they aren't related to your issue.
And about the battery status in the MMI, it is highly inaccurate. Mine never showed the battery was low until the vehicle was actually dead and wouldn't start in the grocery store parking lot. All of the prior weeks and months of having to push start/stop 2 times before the vehicle had enough juice to start the MMI said it had 100%, when it obviously didn't because it couldn't crank the engine on the first try.
Also, on a side note, Have you replaced your HID bulbs yet?. Youre probably well overdue on those as well.
09-09-2016, 08:24 PM
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If it's still the same battery from Audi it is WAY overdue. Batteries should be changed out around every 4 years. Maybe 5 if you live in a warmer climate. I'm surprised it lasted this long with no issues. You can get the battery at Autozone, they have a book with all of the batteries they sell for the Q7. They have batteries ranging from $150-$300.. I would recommend the most expensive version as it was a better brand and the one I have had for almost a year with no issues... Although I don't remember what it is called, it was the best one. Do not go to Audi. They will charge you $500+ for something you can do in a half hour in your driveway.
I would only worry about spark plugs if the car was cranking for a while before starting. Or if there is a noticble misfire when it's running. But still not a bad idea to change them out if they haven't been changed out yet, even though I'm almost certain they aren't related to your issue.
And about the battery status in the MMI, it is highly inaccurate. Mine never showed the battery was low until the vehicle was actually dead and wouldn't start in the grocery store parking lot. All of the prior weeks and months of having to push start/stop 2 times before the vehicle had enough juice to start the MMI said it had 100%, when it obviously didn't because it couldn't crank the engine on the first try.
Also, on a side note, Have you replaced your HID bulbs yet?. Youre probably well overdue on those as well.
I would only worry about spark plugs if the car was cranking for a while before starting. Or if there is a noticble misfire when it's running. But still not a bad idea to change them out if they haven't been changed out yet, even though I'm almost certain they aren't related to your issue.
And about the battery status in the MMI, it is highly inaccurate. Mine never showed the battery was low until the vehicle was actually dead and wouldn't start in the grocery store parking lot. All of the prior weeks and months of having to push start/stop 2 times before the vehicle had enough juice to start the MMI said it had 100%, when it obviously didn't because it couldn't crank the engine on the first try.
Also, on a side note, Have you replaced your HID bulbs yet?. Youre probably well overdue on those as well.
Do you have any recommendations on where to get the HID bulbs?
Thank you!
09-12-2016, 06:09 AM
#6
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I replaced the original battery on my 2007 3.6 in February...
I changed the battery myself in about 45 minutes - plus 30 minutes of reading various on-line DIY posts and videos. The most helpful post is over at audiforums.com. Here are some highlights:
1) CT Audi dealer wanted to charge me $500 ($260 battery/misc parts, 1.5 hours labor @ $135/hour, plus tax)
2) I bought a Duralast Platinum (AGM) H8 (same as Group 49 size) for $175 from Autozone. AGM batteries DO need to vent. Most batteries come with two vent holes on each end of the battery. You need to seal/plug the one on the positive side of the battery using the plastic plug that is attached to the the '+' terminal shipping cap. You need to insert the existing vent tube into the vent hole on the '-' side.
3) I needed to order a 10mm XZN/M10 triple square driver from Amazon to remove the two bolts holding down the front of the driver seat. No local auto parts stores stock this bit... Apparently VW/Audi/Porsche are the only ones who use this bolt.
4) I hooked up a portable battery jump starter to the posts under the hood to maintain power to the car during the swap. This allows the car to retain all settings.
5) You do NOT need to remove the bolts from the rear of the driver seat. There are a few videos and posts that instruct you to do so. You only need to remove the rear plastics rail covers. The back of the seat rail is hinged so once you remove the two bolts in front, the entire seat will tilt back far enough on the hinges for you to access the battery compartment. With that said. the hardest part of the entire operation is lifting the 55 pound original battery out of the compartment at an angle to clear the tilted seat. I managed to do it by myself - but it was not easy. If you were to remove the entire seat, removing the battery would be easier but then you'd need to disconnect some wire harnesses that connect the car to the seat. Choose your poison.
6) Removing the battery air filter cover is a bit tricky. The front clips are very accessible and can easily be disconnected. The rear clips are wedged in pretty tight - so take visual note of the design of the front clips and then you can figure out how to get your finger behind the battery compartment to unclip the rears without a direct sight line to the clips.
7) Lastly, there is some debate over whether your car need to be reprogrammed to acknowledge the new battery. There are many who have changed their batteries without re-coding and have not reported problems. But others say that the unadjusted charge rate will potentially damage a new battery over time. The dealer told me that they estimate .5 hour labor charge of $67.50 plus tax. I did not re-program mine and after seven months have no issues.
Here is the link to my HID replacement thread:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-...7-wow-2874380/
I changed the battery myself in about 45 minutes - plus 30 minutes of reading various on-line DIY posts and videos. The most helpful post is over at audiforums.com. Here are some highlights:
1) CT Audi dealer wanted to charge me $500 ($260 battery/misc parts, 1.5 hours labor @ $135/hour, plus tax)
2) I bought a Duralast Platinum (AGM) H8 (same as Group 49 size) for $175 from Autozone. AGM batteries DO need to vent. Most batteries come with two vent holes on each end of the battery. You need to seal/plug the one on the positive side of the battery using the plastic plug that is attached to the the '+' terminal shipping cap. You need to insert the existing vent tube into the vent hole on the '-' side.
3) I needed to order a 10mm XZN/M10 triple square driver from Amazon to remove the two bolts holding down the front of the driver seat. No local auto parts stores stock this bit... Apparently VW/Audi/Porsche are the only ones who use this bolt.
4) I hooked up a portable battery jump starter to the posts under the hood to maintain power to the car during the swap. This allows the car to retain all settings.
5) You do NOT need to remove the bolts from the rear of the driver seat. There are a few videos and posts that instruct you to do so. You only need to remove the rear plastics rail covers. The back of the seat rail is hinged so once you remove the two bolts in front, the entire seat will tilt back far enough on the hinges for you to access the battery compartment. With that said. the hardest part of the entire operation is lifting the 55 pound original battery out of the compartment at an angle to clear the tilted seat. I managed to do it by myself - but it was not easy. If you were to remove the entire seat, removing the battery would be easier but then you'd need to disconnect some wire harnesses that connect the car to the seat. Choose your poison.
6) Removing the battery air filter cover is a bit tricky. The front clips are very accessible and can easily be disconnected. The rear clips are wedged in pretty tight - so take visual note of the design of the front clips and then you can figure out how to get your finger behind the battery compartment to unclip the rears without a direct sight line to the clips.
7) Lastly, there is some debate over whether your car need to be reprogrammed to acknowledge the new battery. There are many who have changed their batteries without re-coding and have not reported problems. But others say that the unadjusted charge rate will potentially damage a new battery over time. The dealer told me that they estimate .5 hour labor charge of $67.50 plus tax. I did not re-program mine and after seven months have no issues.
Here is the link to my HID replacement thread:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-...7-wow-2874380/
09-12-2016, 10:06 AM
#7
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I replaced the original battery on my 2007 3.6 in February...
I changed the battery myself in about 45 minutes - plus 30 minutes of reading various on-line DIY posts and videos. The most helpful post is over at audiforums.com. Here are some highlights:
1) CT Audi dealer wanted to charge me $500 ($260 battery/misc parts, 1.5 hours labor @ $135/hour, plus tax)
2) I bought a Duralast Platinum (AGM) H8 (same as Group 49 size) for $175 from Autozone. AGM batteries DO need to vent. Most batteries come with two vent holes on each end of the battery. You need to seal/plug the one on the positive side of the battery using the plastic plug that is attached to the the '+' terminal shipping cap. You need to insert the existing vent tube into the vent hole on the '-' side.
3) I needed to order a 10mm XZN/M10 triple square driver from Amazon to remove the two bolts holding down the front of the driver seat. No local auto parts stores stock this bit... Apparently VW/Audi/Porsche are the only ones who use this bolt.
4) I hooked up a portable battery jump starter to the posts under the hood to maintain power to the car during the swap. This allows the car to retain all settings.
5) You do NOT need to remove the bolts from the rear of the driver seat. There are a few videos and posts that instruct you to do so. You only need to remove the rear plastics rail covers. The back of the seat rail is hinged so once you remove the two bolts in front, the entire seat will tilt back far enough on the hinges for you to access the battery compartment. With that said. the hardest part of the entire operation is lifting the 55 pound original battery out of the compartment at an angle to clear the tilted seat. I managed to do it by myself - but it was not easy. If you were to remove the entire seat, removing the battery would be easier but then you'd need to disconnect some wire harnesses that connect the car to the seat. Choose your poison.
6) Removing the battery air filter cover is a bit tricky. The front clips are very accessible and can easily be disconnected. The rear clips are wedged in pretty tight - so take visual note of the design of the front clips and then you can figure out how to get your finger behind the battery compartment to unclip the rears without a direct sight line to the clips.
7) Lastly, there is some debate over whether your car need to be reprogrammed to acknowledge the new battery. There are many who have changed their batteries without re-coding and have not reported problems. But others say that the unadjusted charge rate will potentially damage a new battery over time. The dealer told me that they estimate .5 hour labor charge of $67.50 plus tax. I did not re-program mine and after seven months have no issues.
Here is the link to my HID replacement thread:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-...7-wow-2874380/
I changed the battery myself in about 45 minutes - plus 30 minutes of reading various on-line DIY posts and videos. The most helpful post is over at audiforums.com. Here are some highlights:
1) CT Audi dealer wanted to charge me $500 ($260 battery/misc parts, 1.5 hours labor @ $135/hour, plus tax)
2) I bought a Duralast Platinum (AGM) H8 (same as Group 49 size) for $175 from Autozone. AGM batteries DO need to vent. Most batteries come with two vent holes on each end of the battery. You need to seal/plug the one on the positive side of the battery using the plastic plug that is attached to the the '+' terminal shipping cap. You need to insert the existing vent tube into the vent hole on the '-' side.
3) I needed to order a 10mm XZN/M10 triple square driver from Amazon to remove the two bolts holding down the front of the driver seat. No local auto parts stores stock this bit... Apparently VW/Audi/Porsche are the only ones who use this bolt.
4) I hooked up a portable battery jump starter to the posts under the hood to maintain power to the car during the swap. This allows the car to retain all settings.
5) You do NOT need to remove the bolts from the rear of the driver seat. There are a few videos and posts that instruct you to do so. You only need to remove the rear plastics rail covers. The back of the seat rail is hinged so once you remove the two bolts in front, the entire seat will tilt back far enough on the hinges for you to access the battery compartment. With that said. the hardest part of the entire operation is lifting the 55 pound original battery out of the compartment at an angle to clear the tilted seat. I managed to do it by myself - but it was not easy. If you were to remove the entire seat, removing the battery would be easier but then you'd need to disconnect some wire harnesses that connect the car to the seat. Choose your poison.
6) Removing the battery air filter cover is a bit tricky. The front clips are very accessible and can easily be disconnected. The rear clips are wedged in pretty tight - so take visual note of the design of the front clips and then you can figure out how to get your finger behind the battery compartment to unclip the rears without a direct sight line to the clips.
7) Lastly, there is some debate over whether your car need to be reprogrammed to acknowledge the new battery. There are many who have changed their batteries without re-coding and have not reported problems. But others say that the unadjusted charge rate will potentially damage a new battery over time. The dealer told me that they estimate .5 hour labor charge of $67.50 plus tax. I did not re-program mine and after seven months have no issues.
Here is the link to my HID replacement thread:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/q7-...7-wow-2874380/
Thank you, i will give it a try.
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