Q7 Brake/Rotor Conversion
#11
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We got Brembo 18Z from the factory, most other VAG cars spend $2k+ for a big brake conversion kit that contains what we got from the factory.. going to GTS brakes are completely unnecessary but about the only damn way you're gonna improve on what you already got.
6mo ago I grazed a deer, Fully loaded at this vehicles max towing capabilities in the mountains.. If it had not stopped so amazingly quick my Audi would had been totaled, instead I went from 60mph to ~10mph quicker than I ever thought I could get this whole rig to stop, pulling enough G-Forces my seat belt left a mark on my chest.. the brakes we got are absolutely phenomenal, I wish more people appreciated em instead of screwing with em.
6mo ago I grazed a deer, Fully loaded at this vehicles max towing capabilities in the mountains.. If it had not stopped so amazingly quick my Audi would had been totaled, instead I went from 60mph to ~10mph quicker than I ever thought I could get this whole rig to stop, pulling enough G-Forces my seat belt left a mark on my chest.. the brakes we got are absolutely phenomenal, I wish more people appreciated em instead of screwing with em.
Last edited by dreadlocks; 06-02-2020 at 09:49 AM.
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Built4Sin (08-06-2020)
#12
#13
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I used Pentosin LV on my last flush:
Higher Temp 'Racing' Brake fluid is nice and all, but the higher temp rating it has the more hydrophilic it becomes.. so flush intervals increase dramatically, and they can last very short times depending on environmental and driving conditions.. usually advise against it unless your already burning up brake fluid w/your agressive driving.. If you've never encountered severe brake fade and pedal mushyness then its not really going to do much.
Higher Temp 'Racing' Brake fluid is nice and all, but the higher temp rating it has the more hydrophilic it becomes.. so flush intervals increase dramatically, and they can last very short times depending on environmental and driving conditions.. usually advise against it unless your already burning up brake fluid w/your agressive driving.. If you've never encountered severe brake fade and pedal mushyness then its not really going to do much.
Last edited by dreadlocks; 06-04-2020 at 02:53 PM.
#15
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If its a noticeable lip you can catch your thumb nail on the outter edge is how I go.. wear spec is like under 1mm and your thumbnail is about half a mm.. if its much more than your thumbnail your more than halfway thru the rotors and they wont last through another set of pads.. usually you can stretch rotors out to every other change, but only if your prompt about brake maintance and don't try to eek every dollar outta em.
#16
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Yeah, I definitely have that. Problem is my pads have about 1/3 life left at least maybe more and I don't mind changing pads with old rotors but I've never done it the other way round. Contemplating the effect of running new rotors with old pads. I do have a lift but wondering if its worth the time of potentially having to change brakes twice not in a calendar year but in linear year.
#17
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ah just run em til your brake warning light comes on or they get really noisey and plan to replace everything when it does.. I would not do rotors w/out fresh pads or you might accelerate rotor wear..
If you go to a dealer and ask em to check brakes the'll check pad thickness and never look at rotor wear.. so the question is more how much wear is acceptable when you change your pads, not how much is acceptable before you do your brakes.. let your pads tell you when to do that.
If you go to a dealer and ask em to check brakes the'll check pad thickness and never look at rotor wear.. so the question is more how much wear is acceptable when you change your pads, not how much is acceptable before you do your brakes.. let your pads tell you when to do that.
#18
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Circling back to this, my brakes came in today from FCP Euro after ordering on Monday and I measured them using my $10 Amazon plastic caliper - so take these readings with that in mind, honestly still pretty accurate if I'm honest - measured as follows:
New - Front: 34.08 mm
- Rear: 27.89mm
Min: 32mm
26mm
So, give or take a 2mm wear life expectancy. Initially I was about to keep the boxes - for a year or two until they needed to be replaced again but FCP states that you have to purchase new rotors and pads then they will refund the purchase of the previous order. I'm sure I'll end up dumping these rotors and pads when its time to replace once i get the wallet busting return price LOL. I'm sure that's what they're counting on.
New - Front: 34.08 mm
- Rear: 27.89mm
Min: 32mm
26mm
So, give or take a 2mm wear life expectancy. Initially I was about to keep the boxes - for a year or two until they needed to be replaced again but FCP states that you have to purchase new rotors and pads then they will refund the purchase of the previous order. I'm sure I'll end up dumping these rotors and pads when its time to replace once i get the wallet busting return price LOL. I'm sure that's what they're counting on.
#19
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Thanks for the replies!
It looks like the GTS uses 390mm front 358mm rear rotors, but the same 6 piston and 4 piston calipers... Cayenne Turbo uses 10 piston front calipers.
Standard Q7 brakes are 350mm front, 330mm rear.
I'll try different fluids, pads, rotors on the current size first and see how those work.
It looks like the GTS uses 390mm front 358mm rear rotors, but the same 6 piston and 4 piston calipers... Cayenne Turbo uses 10 piston front calipers.
Standard Q7 brakes are 350mm front, 330mm rear.
I'll try different fluids, pads, rotors on the current size first and see how those work.
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