Q7 Oil Change DIY Tech Article
#1
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Looking for the Q7's oil change steps. Does anyone here do their own?
I checked the 4.2L engine forum and couldn't readily see anything there either.
I checked the 4.2L engine forum and couldn't readily see anything there either.
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#3
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Well, except for my '86 5k.
Simple stuff.
1. remove filter housing (top of engine), replace filter and o-ring. 25 Nm. This breaks the fluid lock and allows remaining oil to drain into the pan
2. remove belly pan. Loosen rear pan at the rear so that you can drop it
3. open oil drain, remember there's 9+ qts in there, you need a big drain pan
4. replace drain plug, use new aluminum crush washer. 30 Nm.
5. Fill it up. Go 1/2 qt short and then measure via the stick to fill the last amount.
6. check for leaks around drain plug, belly pans back on
You're good to go.
Simple stuff.
1. remove filter housing (top of engine), replace filter and o-ring. 25 Nm. This breaks the fluid lock and allows remaining oil to drain into the pan
2. remove belly pan. Loosen rear pan at the rear so that you can drop it
3. open oil drain, remember there's 9+ qts in there, you need a big drain pan
4. replace drain plug, use new aluminum crush washer. 30 Nm.
5. Fill it up. Go 1/2 qt short and then measure via the stick to fill the last amount.
6. check for leaks around drain plug, belly pans back on
You're good to go.
#5
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Oil change on the 3.6 is probably the worst I have ever done. Even worse than my 1.8T before I figured out how to get the filter out from the topside. First, the 20 or so screws one needs to remove to drop the belly pan puts one in a bad mood. Then you get an oil shower as you remove the cartridge cap. To make matters worse, once you get the cartridge cap off, you can't fish it out between the frame rails, etc, to clean it etc. It won't fit. You have to separate the cartridge from the cap while it is up there trapped between the engine and frame, and that's no picnic because there is no room for your hands to work. Then the final annoyance is the pan drain plug. It is so close to a frame rail that a regular socket won't work - I ended up using an adjustable wrench because I didn't have an 18 mm wrench handy.
My local Audi tech told me it was bad and he was right.
My local Audi tech told me it was bad and he was right.
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