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"FYI, 60mL of Berryman B12 chemtool with pistons at TDC has the initial liquid level at about 30 percent of the height of the spark plug coil pack housings."
So does this mean the combustion side of your valves are covered?
Nice work - keep us posted!
Will do. Took some photos and made a simple log sheet of start and end times of each cylinder soak. I'll try to organize everything and share with you all.
I would like to assume that the combustion chamber is filled to the point that the B12 is contacting the valves. I thought about submerging my endoscope camera into the solution to get a look into the cylinder and switching to the side lens, but I was not brave enough.
If we are constantly adding oil I think our oil stays relatively new.
It does not. Products of combustion, as well as any unburnt fuel get past the rings going down towards the crank, just the same as oil comes up past the rings to get burnt. Adding new oil in is only diluting that slightly. The remainder of the oil still in the crank still has all of those contaminants and wear, which allows it past the rings easier, as well as allows it to volitalize easier and go through the PCV system instead of staying in the crankcase.
This begs the question - should we be leaving the exhaust valve open slightly to to clean the contact surface between the valve and head? Seems maybe if piston was slightly off from TDC where the exhaust valve would be slightly open would more thoroughly clean it (with minimally more B12). Or perhaps the if the buildup is bad enough such that the valve is not seating properly it will be cleaned anyway (at TDC). Just a thought.
This begs the question - should we be leaving the exhaust valve open slightly to to clean the contact surface between the valve and head? Seems maybe if piston was slightly off from TDC where the exhaust valve would be slightly open would more thoroughly clean it (with minimally more B12). Or perhaps the if the buildup is bad enough such that the valve is not seating properly it will be cleaned anyway (at TDC). Just a thought.
I agree with your idea and concept. I also thought about this but didn't attempt it only because of being nervous of the b12 chemtool causing an adverse effect on the valve stem seal (probably unlikely to make contact with it but still worrying) by causing swelling or some other damage that could cause premature valve stem seal failure.
Additionally, I feel semi-lazy and did not want the added step of figuring out when the piston would be approaching TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke.
I agree with your idea and concept. I also thought about this but didn't attempt it only because of being nervous of the b12 chemtool causing an adverse effect on the valve stem seal (probably unlikely to make contact with it but still worrying) by causing swelling or some other damage that could cause premature valve stem seal failure.
Additionally, I feel semi-lazy and did not want the added step of figuring out when the piston would be approaching TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke.
How are you determining that the piston is at TDC? Endoscope?
How are you determining that the piston is at TDC? Endoscope?
I've done this in the past with a long metal rod slipped through the spark plug hole. I've used a zip-tie before as well.
Just rotate the engine until the indicator stops moving upward.
From there you can blow air in the cylinder and see if you have leakage through a valve. Once you have #1 at TDC, you can count revs of the crank to get the others at TDC.
IIRC, you should only crank the engine one way, right? Therefore if you overshoot, you'd have to do another full revolution in the forward direction (ie: shouldn't turn it backwards)?
The piston will be at TDC twice throughout it's rotation, so I also think it shouldn't matter which stroke (end of compression or exhaust), correct? I may be overthinking this?
The exhaust valves are at the bottom and on the side so having them slightly open would make the solution leak into the exhaust manifold if the piston is fully extended (TDC) so not a good idea.
A way to know whether the piston is fully extended is to place a long enough plastic straw into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. As you crank the engine, the straw will move in and out. The piston would be at TDC (fully extended) when the straw stops coming out. It would be beneficial to place a straw into each cylinder and watch them move so you know which pistons are at TDC at the same time which should save time.
IIRC, you should only crank the engine one way, right? Therefore if you overshoot, you'd have to do another full revolution in the forward direction (ie: shouldn't turn it backwards)?
Turning the engine counter-clockwise could lock it and you have a big problem on our hands that may require total engine disassembly. Always turn clockwise only.
06-12-2024, 08:43 AM
