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Dashcam Install via mirrortap - success!

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Old 08-03-2016, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe1351
Thanks for detailed instructions with lots of pictures . My only concern is does it void any kind of car warranty say electrical?
It might. But unlikely. Power draw is pretty low on these things and the cable I made has an in-line fuse. People install their radar detectors like this all the time. If something actually breaks in the area and you're really concerned about what might happen if you bring it to the dealer for warranty service, it's not difficult to simply pop out the trim piece, unplug the taps and remove whole install (this will literally take 1 minute). And the nice thing about this install is it's 100% reversible; no wires, harnesses, or parts in the car are cut or altered whatsoever. So removing every trace of the install is easy even if you just want to bring it in for regular service.
Old 08-03-2016, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Zoich
Hi Larry! So for your rear camera - are you using another 1-Channel camera like the front one? or are you using the "lesser" frames one that comes with the 2-channel which you'll need to route that cable to the front unit?
I'm using a 2-channel version of the blackvue so that I don't have to deal with 2 separate SD cards and power sources. Also I like smaller more stealthy form of the rear camera which for the Q7 doesn't get in the way of deploying the rear hatch's retractable sun shade. Yes the rear camera is lesser quality compared to the front but as of blackvue's latest firmware update released with the newer "S" models, the bitrates improved over previous versions and are now at 10Mbps and 5Mbps respectively. Front is 1080p and rear is still 720p. I tested it and the rear looks good enough for me, since it's intended to only supplement front video for context anyway. The Sony EXMOR imaging sensors used in these models are solid.

Routing it to the rear and through the hatch hinge without showing any wires is probably going to be a PITA and I'm not really looking forward to it
Old 08-03-2016, 04:01 PM
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I must confess...I have absolutely no idea what this even does...but it looks like you did one hell of a fine job, Larry!
Old 08-06-2016, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by larryV
It might. But unlikely. Power draw is pretty low on these things and the cable I made has an in-line fuse. People install their radar detectors like this all the time. If something actually breaks in the area and you're really concerned about what might happen if you bring it to the dealer for warranty service, it's not difficult to simply pop out the trim piece, unplug the taps and remove whole install (this will literally take 1 minute). And the nice thing about this install is it's 100% reversible; no wires, harnesses, or parts in the car are cut or altered whatsoever. So removing every trace of the install is easy even if you just want to bring it in for regular service.
So the MirrorTap you linked cost $25.

What's the difference between using the MirrorTap and just plugging in a red and black wire into the appropriate slots on the harness?
Old 08-07-2016, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Peter Williams
So the MirrorTap you linked cost $25.

What's the difference between using the MirrorTap and just plugging in a red and black wire into the appropriate slots on the harness?
It's just easier to plug in appropriately-sized taps (in this case .080") into the harness versus bare stranded wire, not to mention more secure and snug since the taps are designed for this specific purpose.

Also, the mirrortap cable I used already has an in-line fuse, which certainly can't hurt when your tapping into a power source not intended for this purpose.

I suppose you can source your own mini-taps and terminate each wire with it, as well as make your own in-line fuse, but I figured spending $25 on amazon was easier for this little project.
Old 08-07-2016, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by larryV
This is part 1 of 2. Part 1 will be just the front camera install hardwired via mirror tap. Part 2 will be the rear camera install that I will post later.

Picked up the new Blackvue DR650S 2CH and since I have no desire to have the camera run in parked mode, I decided to do hardwire via a mirror tap. The fact that the side fuse panel in the Q7 doesn't have any accessory power-switched fuse locations to tap from in order to run a battery discharge protection module made this decision easier. Those that want to run a power magic pro or multi-safer to run their dashcams in parked mode will probably need to access the fuse panel under the dead pedal (left hand drive models).

Since neither Blackvue nor Blendmount make a hardwire kit for Blackvue dash cams, I decided to make my own. Nice thing about the Blackvue dashcams is that they run off direct 12V DC power, making hardwiring a snap. Disclaimer: I'm not a professional installer, nor do I make any claims that whatever wiring job I show on this post is proper or safe for your car or dash cam.

Items needed:
1) Blackvue DR650S (or any other dash cam that have 12V power input for that matter; most south korean models are this way)
2) Nylon trim removal tools (~$10 from amazon)
3) any MirrorTap cable with an in-line fuse and .080 size taps (any smaller and it might be too loose on the Audi harness). You can buy one from Blendmount or you can save some $ like I did by buying the "Mirrortap 1000 series made for C6 Vettes" that's readily available on amazon for $20-25. You can also make one yourself if you can source .080 taps somewhere, but then you'd still have to wire in a fuse. Here's a link to the one I bought: https://amzn.com/B006MZFH28
4) wire stripper tool
5) soldering iron, solder, or just electrical tape will probably do if you want to skip the solder. Optional: heat-shrinkable cable sleeve and heat gun for a cleaner job.


Step 1: determine the approximate length from the base of your rearview mirror you want to install the dash cam and snip off the terminations of both the mirror tap cable and the blackvue/dash cam power cable leaving yourself with enough cable length to work with.



and there's this warning label on the blackvue power cable... yeah I cut it. Living on the edge!




Step 2: strip the ends. The proper tool makes this easy.





Step 3: Put them together. Red to red, black to black. Put 'em together however you see fit. I couldn't find my soldering iron so I just twisted the strands together, wrapped with electrical tape, and heat-shrunk a cable sleeve over the whole thing. Good enough. The joint won't be under any stress once tucked in the trim panel.





Step 4: Remove the trim panels. There are three, but you only need to remove two; the largest and the middle piece. They come off easy by simply prying from the aft of panel with a trim removal tool. The middle piece you'll need to be careful with since the little tabs that hold them to the third piece look fragile. Just grab hold and gently wiggle back and forth and it pulls right out.





Step 5: Locate the harness to the mirror. It's the larger one that's readily accessible to you once the trim pieces come out. It actually pivots down a bit so you don't even have to detach it in order to plug in the taps. On this harness the accessory power is the YELLOW wire and ground is the BROWN wire.





Step 6: Plug in the taps. Red goes into where yellow wire is, black goes into where the brown wire is. Because the bases of the taps are kinda thick, I found that on my harness it fit best when I slotted in the red tap from front of where the yellow wire goes in and the black tap behind of where the yellow wire goes in. Perfect fit. Should slot right in with minimal resistance. Connect your dashcam and turn on accessory power to make sure everything works before snapping the trim pieces back in.






Step 7: Carefully replace the middle trim piece but route your homemade cable to exit at the base of the this trim piece as shown below...




Whatever excess cable slack you have can be looped and tucked away under the bigger trim piece (there's plenty of room here)






Step 8: Snap the largest trim piece back on. On this pic you can see a driver's seat perspective of how I located the dash cam behind the rearview mirror so that it doesn't take up any visibility from the driver.



Passenger's seat view..


Done!

Step 9: profit.

Here's a test video driving around the block in my 'hood... still need to to tweak the brightness/contrast settings on the cam, but overall pretty happy with the video quality.
Blackvue DR650S test - YouTube


Part 2 coming soon... I plan on installing the rear camera this coming weekend.
Thanks for the detailed install. Just curious, on step 9, when you say "profit", what do you mean?
Old 08-07-2016, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by EricNCSU1204
Thanks for the detailed install. Just curious, on step 9, when you say "profit", what do you mean?
lol

it's just a internet meme that originated from the south park tv show.
Old 08-07-2016, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by larryV
lol

it's just a internet meme that originated from the south park tv show.
ahh, ok, my apologies for being slow.
Old 08-07-2016, 12:28 PM
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I did the same install for Passport 360 radar detector. I made my own Mirrortap by using telephone jack, 22 gauge wire and DVI male connectors.
Old 08-09-2016, 07:41 AM
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So just curious Larry, but what are your reasons for wanting/needing a dash cam?


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