Insane Engine Repair Estimate - 2017 Q7
#12
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did you tell carmax about the issues or do they just get a shoutout because they let you make your problem theirs and in turn the unsuspecting next owner?
can't lie, these stories scare me. i've had our '19 a little over a year and haven't had any issues taking it from 25k to 40k miles but i do wonder what the chances are i run into something similar. unfortunately, a little parking lot fender bender, tuning it and the market shifting in general has taken my trade in to nearly half what i bought it for last year so i'll likely just drive and hope for the best for a few more years
can't lie, these stories scare me. i've had our '19 a little over a year and haven't had any issues taking it from 25k to 40k miles but i do wonder what the chances are i run into something similar. unfortunately, a little parking lot fender bender, tuning it and the market shifting in general has taken my trade in to nearly half what i bought it for last year so i'll likely just drive and hope for the best for a few more years
#13
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That's about where I'm at. I bought mine in March of '21 for $42k with 40k miles. It was a relatively decent price and in good condition. However I'm now just over 107k almost 3yrs later, and the value has plummeted faster than I have paid it off (despite taking a "normal" 60mo loan at a reasonable rate). So I think I owe like $26k on it now, and I think it might be worth $15k. It pains me to even think about dumping it just from the impending financial doom of it. However I don't have the bandwidth to pull a motor and rebuild it, nor do I want to sink $5-7k into an independent mechanic to do it for me on a $15k vehicle.
Won't lie, been considering trading it, taking the loss and moving into a Titan. 100k mi warranty on a Japanese build is looking pretty attractive about now. Make it a 24mo lease and turn that negative equity into a low interest short term loan, then just be done with it all and start over in 2yrs.
Won't lie, been considering trading it, taking the loss and moving into a Titan. 100k mi warranty on a Japanese build is looking pretty attractive about now. Make it a 24mo lease and turn that negative equity into a low interest short term loan, then just be done with it all and start over in 2yrs.
#14
AudiWorld Super User
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this straight up is like getting an estimate from a contractor for work on your house that is way out of line. aka the person quoting you does not want to do the work...
this is also in hopes you will just give up and trade the car in for a new one, which you may not be in a position to do.
have you personally reached out to audi of america regarding this issue?
this is also in hopes you will just give up and trade the car in for a new one, which you may not be in a position to do.
have you personally reached out to audi of america regarding this issue?
#15
AudiWorld Member
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That's about where I'm at. I bought mine in March of '21 for $42k with 40k miles. It was a relatively decent price and in good condition. However I'm now just over 107k almost 3yrs later, and the value has plummeted faster than I have paid it off (despite taking a "normal" 60mo loan at a reasonable rate). So I think I owe like $26k on it now, and I think it might be worth $15k. It pains me to even think about dumping it just from the impending financial doom of it. However I don't have the bandwidth to pull a motor and rebuild it, nor do I want to sink $5-7k into an independent mechanic to do it for me on a $15k vehicle.
Won't lie, been considering trading it, taking the loss and moving into a Titan. 100k mi warranty on a Japanese build is looking pretty attractive about now. Make it a 24mo lease and turn that negative equity into a low interest short term loan, then just be done with it all and start over in 2yrs.
Won't lie, been considering trading it, taking the loss and moving into a Titan. 100k mi warranty on a Japanese build is looking pretty attractive about now. Make it a 24mo lease and turn that negative equity into a low interest short term loan, then just be done with it all and start over in 2yrs.
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#16
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Neighbor has a '22 Titan. Just crossed 100k miles, and he beats the snot out of that truck as a heavy construction (roadways, bridges, etc) Site Superintendent. I think he's lost a starter and a fuel pump in the time he's had it, and both were covered under warranty. Mostly just changes fluids and drives it.
It's FAR FAR less refined than the Q7, but honestly, I could use an appliance in my life right now, and I think a Titan (or maybe an Armada) might be a good fit.
It's FAR FAR less refined than the Q7, but honestly, I could use an appliance in my life right now, and I think a Titan (or maybe an Armada) might be a good fit.
#17
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Thanks OP for sharing your story. You are saving many people reading your post from buying these cars out of warranty as they all obviously are having their engines blow up after 100k miles if not sooner. If I knew this motor in the Q7 was the same in the A6, A7, A8, S4, S5, SQ5, I would have researched more in the Q7 forum before purchasing my A7 with the same engine because the Q7 is the most sold car with this engine and people started reporting problems like yours for a long time.
I hope people in the market for a used one will refrain from buying and I hope people already owning these cars will ditch them before warranty expires. Again, this exact same engine is in the A6, A7, A8, S4, S5 and SQ5 with the 3.0 TFSI CREC. Stay away from them.
I hope people in the market for a used one will refrain from buying and I hope people already owning these cars will ditch them before warranty expires. Again, this exact same engine is in the A6, A7, A8, S4, S5 and SQ5 with the 3.0 TFSI CREC. Stay away from them.
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gbgastowers (02-06-2024)
#18
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The chunk of valve was just sparks (tiny pieces) when it was hot enough I think. I just bought a new valve and valve stem seal and new gaskets. Lapped the valve and the contact surface and it looked great. Another valve in the cylinder next to it was not seating fully (liquid in valve face area leaked down when tested) so I lapped that one too. Pistons showed no contact and smooth bores. The reason I thought the PCV (positive crank case ventilation) was bad was due to excessive oil consumption and a high vacuum in when I removed oil fill cap with engine running. I replaced the valve when engine was out.
Shockingly, there is only one active valve cover and only one breather hose on this 3.0 TFSI CREC engine which apparently has a higher pressure, higher heat and higher blow-by levels. With all this, internal carbon contamination is inevitable no matter what you do. The intake valves are spared because there is constant fuel spray on them from the MPI injectors but the exhaust valves, the low tension piston rings, the piston crowns, the supercharger on top, the engine oil will be contaminated sooner.
This engine has an expiration date and the best remedy after a failure of this type is total replacement. Don't even waste your time rebuilding.