Figured I post in the older forum: Recomendations for a spot blaster?
#1
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hey guys.
I bought another coupe quattro and I plan on rebuilding it. Last time I did suspension work it took way too long. I want to furthure develope my knowledge in rust removal. specifically on Suspension and subframe items.
Opinions?
http://www.eastwoodco.com/images/us//local/products/detail/p5113.jpg
Does Oxisolv Rust Remover actually work?
Thanks
Josh<ul><li><a href="http://www.eastwoodco.com/images/us//local/products/detail/p1778.jpg">http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45998</a></li></ul>
I bought another coupe quattro and I plan on rebuilding it. Last time I did suspension work it took way too long. I want to furthure develope my knowledge in rust removal. specifically on Suspension and subframe items.
Opinions?
http://www.eastwoodco.com/images/us//local/products/detail/p5113.jpg
Does Oxisolv Rust Remover actually work?
Thanks
Josh<ul><li><a href="http://www.eastwoodco.com/images/us//local/products/detail/p1778.jpg">http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45998</a></li></ul>
#2
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<ul><li><a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45998">http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45998</a</li></ul>
#4
AudiWorld Super User
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I recently took my entire suspension and misc. other parts (strut housings, subframes, sway bars, A arms, brackets, etc.) to a local media blaster. It was all done in two days for $60. No mess for me, and it all came out perfectly. They even unloaded it all for me and loaded it back in the car when I picked it up. Truly painless.
I did this even though I have a blast cabinet and could have done a good portion of it myself. I use the blast cabinet for small stuff or things that could be damaged by a sand blaster.
As for rust desolving solutions, anything that works well enough to be worthwhile is far too nasty to use at home IME. IMO, the DIY stuff is only useful for removing very light surface rust on sheet metal. It will not remove deep rust pits. It is also important that you get it all neutralized and removed from any crevices, as paint will not properly adhere to it. I would not recommend using on a part like a subframe.
Having parts dip stripped is another option, but only on parts where you can get to ALL surfaces to paint when you are done. Again, a subframe would not be a good candidate unless you found a place that can also dip prime. The stripping process will remove all the rust and paint from EVERYWHERE on the part. If you can't get primer, sealant or paint back on it everywhere, it WILL rust.
Just my $.02, YMMV.
I did this even though I have a blast cabinet and could have done a good portion of it myself. I use the blast cabinet for small stuff or things that could be damaged by a sand blaster.
As for rust desolving solutions, anything that works well enough to be worthwhile is far too nasty to use at home IME. IMO, the DIY stuff is only useful for removing very light surface rust on sheet metal. It will not remove deep rust pits. It is also important that you get it all neutralized and removed from any crevices, as paint will not properly adhere to it. I would not recommend using on a part like a subframe.
Having parts dip stripped is another option, but only on parts where you can get to ALL surfaces to paint when you are done. Again, a subframe would not be a good candidate unless you found a place that can also dip prime. The stripping process will remove all the rust and paint from EVERYWHERE on the part. If you can't get primer, sealant or paint back on it everywhere, it WILL rust.
Just my $.02, YMMV.
#5
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and then primed and painted by my body shop guy. He painted everything in black Imron, and when I installed it all back, I used new factory fasteners, as well as bushings/bearing everywhere. Looks great!
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