Hanger bearing & U-Joint Replacement
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Hanger bearing & U-Joint Replacement
The hanger bearing on a urq (or 4kq) is supposed to put the driveshaft around here:
<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/hanger2.jpg">
However, on my 'new' urq it had sagged to look like this, and was giving kind of funny 'thumping' sounds when starting from a stop..
<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/hanger1.jpg">
TIme to change the hanger bearing. Thats known to be a direct replacement, using BMW part number 26-12-1-209-532.
Now I though it may be handy to have a spare U-joint while in there, 'just in case'. On the Audifans urq list, Louis Alain & Brady had posted some of their U-joint research. I though it prudent to take a chance on ordering one..
"The correct NEAPCO u-joint part number for a type 85 propshaft u-joint is 2-0382. It cross-references to Precision u-joint part number 408 and Suzuki part numbers 27200-53830 or 27200-66810 or 27200-83820. It is from all sorts of Suzuki Vitara, Grand Vitara, XL7, etc. If the parts counter droid insists that you tell him what car it's for, the easiest one to ask for is the driveshaft u-joint on an 02-06 Suzuki XL7. It applies to 2WD and 4WD since it seems there is only one u-joint on those driveshafts, and it's at the front (right behind the transfer case or tranny) of the propshaft. The only difference is that now the grease fitting is on the end of a cap, as opposed to the Lobro, which had it in the cross."
So, I pulled the driveshaft out, and separated the two pieces. Looks like the ujoint was the original Lobro Bit:
<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/lobro2.jpg">
And wouldn't you know it: moving the now free yoke around, it felt a bit notchy. Time to take apart the ujoint. Look what we find!
<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/lobro3.jpg">
Yes, the left bearing was probably dried out..
<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/lobro4.jpg">
The ujoint ordered against the above part number fit perfectly, and now the drivline is a lot tighter, and no more 'thumping' when starting out.. :-)
Special thanks to Brady & Louis-Alain for figuring out the UJ part number..!!!<ul><li><a href="http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/urq/2008-May/013316.html">Audifans Post</a></li></ul>
<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/hanger2.jpg">
However, on my 'new' urq it had sagged to look like this, and was giving kind of funny 'thumping' sounds when starting from a stop..
<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/hanger1.jpg">
TIme to change the hanger bearing. Thats known to be a direct replacement, using BMW part number 26-12-1-209-532.
Now I though it may be handy to have a spare U-joint while in there, 'just in case'. On the Audifans urq list, Louis Alain & Brady had posted some of their U-joint research. I though it prudent to take a chance on ordering one..
"The correct NEAPCO u-joint part number for a type 85 propshaft u-joint is 2-0382. It cross-references to Precision u-joint part number 408 and Suzuki part numbers 27200-53830 or 27200-66810 or 27200-83820. It is from all sorts of Suzuki Vitara, Grand Vitara, XL7, etc. If the parts counter droid insists that you tell him what car it's for, the easiest one to ask for is the driveshaft u-joint on an 02-06 Suzuki XL7. It applies to 2WD and 4WD since it seems there is only one u-joint on those driveshafts, and it's at the front (right behind the transfer case or tranny) of the propshaft. The only difference is that now the grease fitting is on the end of a cap, as opposed to the Lobro, which had it in the cross."
So, I pulled the driveshaft out, and separated the two pieces. Looks like the ujoint was the original Lobro Bit:
<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/lobro2.jpg">
And wouldn't you know it: moving the now free yoke around, it felt a bit notchy. Time to take apart the ujoint. Look what we find!
<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/lobro3.jpg">
Yes, the left bearing was probably dried out..
<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/lobro4.jpg">
The ujoint ordered against the above part number fit perfectly, and now the drivline is a lot tighter, and no more 'thumping' when starting out.. :-)
Special thanks to Brady & Louis-Alain for figuring out the UJ part number..!!!<ul><li><a href="http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/urq/2008-May/013316.html">Audifans Post</a></li></ul>
#2
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Nice work
So, lets say somebody had to replace the carrier bearing, it would probably be pretty beneficial to replace the u joint while you are in there? How much is the Suzuki joint?
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The grease fittiing is ont he other side..
grease zerks on the urQ U-joint?
Sure!
It is on the other side of the Lobro one, and in the 'cap' of the replacement. (Much easier to get at)
Sure!
It is on the other side of the Lobro one, and in the 'cap' of the replacement. (Much easier to get at)
#7
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Hard to say..
This is the 3rd carrier bearing that I've replaced, but the first bearign that had the rubber itself fail. All the others had the bearing fail first (Once, taking the rubber part out with it). This was the first Ujoint of the 3 that had problems.
When the rubber fails, the driveshaft hangs a bit lower, and causes more 'ujoint' flexing. (Normally, the ujoint hardly does anyting, because the driveshaft should be setup to be pefectly straight)
I can't say for sure, but I'd think that my ujoint was tired, partly becasue the driveshaft hanging, and possibly because of the 275,000 miles indicated on the odometer..
I don't know how much the ujoint cost yet, and it's hard to say if you'd need to replace every time.
Problem is, you can't really tell if the ujoint is bad, until you get the driveshaft parts separated.
Either have one on hand, 'just in case' or be prepared for the small chance to pull the driveshaft again. :-)
When the rubber fails, the driveshaft hangs a bit lower, and causes more 'ujoint' flexing. (Normally, the ujoint hardly does anyting, because the driveshaft should be setup to be pefectly straight)
I can't say for sure, but I'd think that my ujoint was tired, partly becasue the driveshaft hanging, and possibly because of the 275,000 miles indicated on the odometer..
I don't know how much the ujoint cost yet, and it's hard to say if you'd need to replace every time.
Problem is, you can't really tell if the ujoint is bad, until you get the driveshaft parts separated.
Either have one on hand, 'just in case' or be prepared for the small chance to pull the driveshaft again. :-)
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Words can't explain it..
Words Can't explain how nice it is to work on an un-rusted car!
But being that it's an 'early 83' car, wit the under dash fusebox, "mystery wiring" is another thing. :-)
However, I'd rather deal with 'mystery wiring' that rust any day!
But being that it's an 'early 83' car, wit the under dash fusebox, "mystery wiring" is another thing. :-)
However, I'd rather deal with 'mystery wiring' that rust any day!