Ringnalda

Well I spoke at length with the owner today. He says that the URQ had two starter motor types, one small one and one large one. He stated that the larger one is fitted and spins the engine over fine, but on a hot day after the engine has run, it will not start the engine for about one hour or so because a sensor indicates an overheating problem and it is to do with the starter being heated by the exhaust. Now this sounds a little far-fetched so the best place to get second opinions on this statement would be right here on the forum... Is this B.S. or not?

gmbchef

Nope. Common occurance.

Ringnalda

Any known (easy) fixes for this?

Berserker

ISTR that the bigger starter is direct drive, and the smaller starter is gear reduced. I had the same problem, and when I installed the other starter, the problems went away.

There's a heat shield between the turbo and the starter as well. Mine was pretty well disintegrated when I got the car. Yours may not be there at all.

Just open your hood every time you shut the car off on your drive back from CO, and hopefully things will cool enough that it will restart when you get back in the car.

racingiron

Mine has never lasted more than a couple of minutes on the hottest day (after opening the hood).

Funny story: Saltino and I were driving to Mid-Ohio last year, he in an early '83 and me in the '86. We were chatting on the radios about the differences between the two. Stopped for gas and sure enough, neither car would turn over. It seems they're more alike than different.

BLT4SPD

from Summit Racing (~$25), wrap the heck out of it and install. I have done it to several cars and they have yet to have a hot start issue (at least one that was related to the starter), even on the hottest of days.

The Bosch reman part number for the later/smaller starter is SR10X and they can be had for around $120 exchange. SOME places will take the early/bigger starter in exchange.

In my own personal car, I made a stand alone wiring harness with a big ole' relay just for the starter. It is overkill, but for the ~$20 and ~2 hours it cost me, the piece of mind was worth it.

Ringnalda

Thank you for this, very useful, information.

stevenmurray

my starter has some wrap on it. It takes about 20 minutes to cool with the hood up. Not ideal if I stall while going over the george washington bridge.

BLT4SPD

As I mentioned, I would strongly suggest that you use some sort of heat shielding. That usually comes in the form of a "wrap" that is specifically sold to keep heat away from starters. Without any sort of protection, you just cook the starter and the solinoid as it sits VERY close to the downpipe.

Aside from that, I would suggest that you check the signal wire that gets +12v when you turn the key to "Start". This wire is infamous for shedding it's insulation and corroding, as well as the terminal that connects it to the starter. I used this original wire to trigger my stand alone relay.

The other thing to check would be the mating surface between the starter and the block. If the car sits for any length of time, this mating surface has a tendancy to corrode as the starter is Alu. and the block is iron. This mating surface it is how the starter is grounded. So, if that ground is bad, it can cause problems.

So, if you had the SR10X starter, wraped it in heat shielding, you KNEW you had +12v signal to engauge the solinoid (stand along relay does that) and you KNEW the ground between the starter and the block was good (I clean it with emery cloth and spray it with battery terminal spray), then YES, I would say that would fix just about any, starter related, hot start problem. It's all about protecting the starter and making damn sure it's getting 12 volts.

IMO, this is about $150-$170 in parts and 4-5 hours labor for everything.<ul><li><a href="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&amp;part=THE%2D14150&a mp;N=700+115&amp;autoview=sku">Link to Starter Heat Wrap</a></li></ul>

fusilier

did you get it?