Special tool 3078 not playing well with 7mm hex socket - strut removal
#1
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Special tool 3078 not playing well with 7mm hex socket - strut removal
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37382/struttowernut.jpg"></center><p>Strut removal - top nut.
Not enough room inside the 3078 for the 7mm Lisle socket and 3/8"breaker bar. I see the spec is 43 foot pounds - I don't think one of those 7mm bent rods like pictured (6 and 8mm pictured) will have the leverage. What works with the 3078?
BTW: I did get the balljoint out of the bottom.
The manual also shows the stub axle being pressed out with an OTC 827-B tool. I hope I don't need to do that.
On re-assembly - I'm pretty sure I need a new axle nut - I'm not sure if the caliper bolts or ball joint thru bolt/nut can be reused.
steve
Not enough room inside the 3078 for the 7mm Lisle socket and 3/8"breaker bar. I see the spec is 43 foot pounds - I don't think one of those 7mm bent rods like pictured (6 and 8mm pictured) will have the leverage. What works with the 3078?
BTW: I did get the balljoint out of the bottom.
The manual also shows the stub axle being pressed out with an OTC 827-B tool. I hope I don't need to do that.
On re-assembly - I'm pretty sure I need a new axle nut - I'm not sure if the caliper bolts or ball joint thru bolt/nut can be reused.
steve
#4
Yes, air gun is your best buddy..
Jsut stick a 22mm socket on, and go. The speed of the air gun, and the friction of everything else in the strut usually just zips that nut off in no time.
Same with putting it back on..
And the driveshaft? I've "never" had a problem getting them out. Sometimes a 1/2" socket extension is handy to help give it a 'push'. If you have to give it a bit of a 'tap' with the hammer to get it started, consider having the big nut on the very end threads of the drivshaft, to protect the threads. Whatever you do, you don't want to bugger them up!
I've reused axle nuts, and balljoint nuts. But I've always assembled them with blue locktite too..
Looks like whenever a 'nylock' nut is used (or stretch bolt), the manual suggests that you replace them. Stretch bolts: Not much choice, but to replace them. But nylock nuts? Again, more blue locktite..!
Same with putting it back on..
And the driveshaft? I've "never" had a problem getting them out. Sometimes a 1/2" socket extension is handy to help give it a 'push'. If you have to give it a bit of a 'tap' with the hammer to get it started, consider having the big nut on the very end threads of the drivshaft, to protect the threads. Whatever you do, you don't want to bugger them up!
I've reused axle nuts, and balljoint nuts. But I've always assembled them with blue locktite too..
Looks like whenever a 'nylock' nut is used (or stretch bolt), the manual suggests that you replace them. Stretch bolts: Not much choice, but to replace them. But nylock nuts? Again, more blue locktite..!
#5
AudiWorld Super User
An impact is preferred, but the hex key works, although you will need to extend it.
I just did that on six struts on two cars at a junkyard a few weeks ago where I had no access to compressed air. I used a 17MM wrench to hold the strut along with the 3078. The hex key did end up a bit bent at the end of the day, but everything came apart. FWIW, I only use hand tool to put that stuff together, as you never know what torque you are putting on a fastener if you tighten it with an impact.
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Are you just doing the fronts?
I never had any luck with the allen keys. I think I tried once and all I did was bend it. I know your not ready to go with an impact, but it takes one zip and the nuts fly off. I honestly dont know how anybody could use the allen key method on the rear shocks, there simply doesnt seem like enough room.
Hopefully the allen works out for you!
Hopefully the allen works out for you!
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