Acid staining garage floor?
#12
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for $65 at a concrete supply store. It was comparatively $100 at Home Depot. We put a high gloss on it, but I would not recommend doing it for a garage because it is slippery when wet.
If you do seal it, then have a paint store add sand to the mixture so it has a rough surface for traction.
Overall the process was toxic as hell, but not too tough of a job. I did three applications to get the desired patterning I wanted. Each took about an hour with a day between.
Make sure you properly tape off the drywall with about a foot of plastic or you will get overspray and it will look horrible. If your concrete is new then then acid will take easier. We had to belt sand the 25 year old floor to take off the smooth surface from age---that was the real pain.
If you do seal it, then have a paint store add sand to the mixture so it has a rough surface for traction.
Overall the process was toxic as hell, but not too tough of a job. I did three applications to get the desired patterning I wanted. Each took about an hour with a day between.
Make sure you properly tape off the drywall with about a foot of plastic or you will get overspray and it will look horrible. If your concrete is new then then acid will take easier. We had to belt sand the 25 year old floor to take off the smooth surface from age---that was the real pain.
#13
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The sand mixed in with is is a great way to add traction while still keeping it easy to clean.
I would also look into the durability of the clear coat when automotive chemicals spill onto it. In other words, what if you have an oil leak and don't notice it for a couple weeks. Will it start to degrade the finish of the clear coat?
I would also look into the durability of the clear coat when automotive chemicals spill onto it. In other words, what if you have an oil leak and don't notice it for a couple weeks. Will it start to degrade the finish of the clear coat?
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Dark colors won't reflect light well and will make it hard to see underneath the car. Just an FYI...
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I worked a Sherwin Williams for three years during college. I wouldn't use anything other than the industrial coatings stuff. Anything labeled for home use won't cut it long term. They make the home stuff easier to put on, but it doesn't last nearly as long. If you can put up with the extra work and fumes of the industrial chemical coatings you'll be much happier in the long run.
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He put in a new concrete patio for me at our last home, we had zero cracks in the two years I lived there, no idea of the condition today.
We are working with him now to do a 20'x15' concrete patio. Also we are going to have him acid etch/seal the new patio (300sqft), our existing patio (144 sqft), and the garage (650 sqft), his quote was near $4k total.
He told me over the phone that for etching/sealing smaller projects, would be at or near $3/sqft.
As far as warranty, depends on the condition of the existing flat work, but usually one year.
Feel free to call him, just tell him that Alex refered you.
Thanks
Alex
We are working with him now to do a 20'x15' concrete patio. Also we are going to have him acid etch/seal the new patio (300sqft), our existing patio (144 sqft), and the garage (650 sqft), his quote was near $4k total.
He told me over the phone that for etching/sealing smaller projects, would be at or near $3/sqft.
As far as warranty, depends on the condition of the existing flat work, but usually one year.
Feel free to call him, just tell him that Alex refered you.
Thanks
Alex
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Many of the finishes won't hold up over time. Like Pat said---yes it's more work, but worth it. Let's just say that I stayed at a Marriott for three nights because the fumes were so bad. A garage would not be so bad, but the house was very open and had poor ventalation. Can't run a furnace during application either, and I was doing it in January.