True or False
07-27-2008, 09:12 AM
#1
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True or False
Audi CPO Warranty for parts and labor comes with a $50 deductible. If a CPO repair fails within 12 months (or 12 days) of being completed and the same work is then repeated, the $50 CPO deductible is applied to the subsequent Service and Repair Warranty job.
07-27-2008, 11:02 AM
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I think you're out the fitty a second time.
Is it really worth the argument with your dealer? I agree that they should eat the deductible (especially if it fails within a few weeks), but I would not push the issue. That way you can at least try to stay on the good side of your service department.
07-27-2008, 12:36 PM
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I agree with Rad. Joe's comment but to me yes if the part fails under the 12-month part warrant y
they should cover the full labor w no deductible. I'll only find out for sure when i take my car in for DRC number 2 in the next few weeks.
07-27-2008, 01:00 PM
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The 50 isn't bothering me, the concept is. Let me rephrase...
Let's say you get repairs done at an Audi Service Center and pay for them without CPO. Said repairs then fail and need to be done again. In my (past) experience, this was covered by a 12 month Service Warranty from Audi (or the dealership) and the fix was gratis. Am I wrong?
Assuming I'm not wrong, why wouldn't that logic apply to subsequent failures within 12 months for work done originally by Audi under CPO? Applying the deductable every time the same thing fails and is fixed within 12 month periods seems redundant.
Assuming I'm not wrong, why wouldn't that logic apply to subsequent failures within 12 months for work done originally by Audi under CPO? Applying the deductable every time the same thing fails and is fixed within 12 month periods seems redundant.
07-27-2008, 05:26 PM
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I still agree with you.
Philosophically, it's wrong for you to have to pay another deductible. I actually think it is insulting to ask you to pay another deductible. But for the sake of good relations with your service department, I wouldn't push it. I would, however, make it clear that I thought it was wrong.
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07-28-2008, 02:52 AM
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You got yours done about the same time as mine...... what's
the issue now? Curious because I'm going to be brining mine back in soon again too.
I never thought the car was right from the day I picked it up but wanted to put a few miles on it to see if everything settled in. Well, after about a thousand miles the car still rides like every bump is exaggerated (not absorbing bumps, just riding over them) and is rougher than my E36 M3. Highway trips are like a day at Six Flags. I also think the car is sitting higher than it should. I'm not getting any noise this time but it's almost like the system has TOO much pressure this time.
So let me know when you bring yours in. Russ can have a two-for again.
I never thought the car was right from the day I picked it up but wanted to put a few miles on it to see if everything settled in. Well, after about a thousand miles the car still rides like every bump is exaggerated (not absorbing bumps, just riding over them) and is rougher than my E36 M3. Highway trips are like a day at Six Flags. I also think the car is sitting higher than it should. I'm not getting any noise this time but it's almost like the system has TOO much pressure this time.
So let me know when you bring yours in. Russ can have a two-for again.
07-28-2008, 05:44 AM
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Welcome to proper DRC behavior (IMHO)
You just described to a T the behavior of a car with very high central valve pressure.
A properly working (in my opinion) DRC is very stiff. My car has been like this from day one. I've put over 40k miles on top of the 47k it had when I bought it and the ride has never changed. STIFF. My RS6 is much harsher down the highway than my M3 which has 30 series tires, 500# springs, huge sway bars and spherical bearings in the suspension.
Your description of higher ride height than before also supports the high pressure theory. I'll bet your rear end has moved higher but the front looks close to where it was before. No? The change in ride height is a function of pressure over the area of the damper shaft. Since the front is heavier than the rear, with the same size shaft (I assume), the rear has moved higher in relation to the front. This is the situation with my car. The rear has always been a bit high in my mind.
Perhaps the high pressure will allow the DRC to work the way it is supposed to and it won't break again?
A properly working (in my opinion) DRC is very stiff. My car has been like this from day one. I've put over 40k miles on top of the 47k it had when I bought it and the ride has never changed. STIFF. My RS6 is much harsher down the highway than my M3 which has 30 series tires, 500# springs, huge sway bars and spherical bearings in the suspension.
Your description of higher ride height than before also supports the high pressure theory. I'll bet your rear end has moved higher but the front looks close to where it was before. No? The change in ride height is a function of pressure over the area of the damper shaft. Since the front is heavier than the rear, with the same size shaft (I assume), the rear has moved higher in relation to the front. This is the situation with my car. The rear has always been a bit high in my mind.
Perhaps the high pressure will allow the DRC to work the way it is supposed to and it won't break again?