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8k miles on SL suspension and clunking noise started from right rear a few days ago only at slow

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Old 02-02-2009, 03:00 AM
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I meant to put SL suspension in original post, now edited
Old 02-02-2009, 05:22 AM
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Default Re: 8k miles on SL suspension and clunking noise started from right rear a few days ago only at slow

Interesting. Wonder if this is why clunking is more prevalent at very cold temperatures (i.e cold might affect pressure in the system which would result in clunking?)
Old 02-02-2009, 07:39 AM
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Default I installed my own SLs and I thought "that instruction is a PITA." I tried to accomplish by using

... a jack to crank the wheel assembly up to ride-height with enough compression to lift the car off the stands. I hope this was adequate.
Old 02-02-2009, 08:30 AM
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Default it is - the point is to torque the fastener while the bushing is under no rotational tension

If you tighten them at full droop, for example, the bushing will be under too much tension while in its "normal" range, thereby drastically shortening the life of the bushing.
Old 02-02-2009, 09:05 AM
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Default Excellent. I thought it was load-dependent, rather than rotational.

I finally had a chance to adjust it this weekend. I must say that it rides much better when not sitting on the bump stops (LOL @ me).
Old 02-02-2009, 10:40 AM
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Default I think that you are wrong. YOu must tighten the lower shock bolts at full load, which means that

the car should be sitting on the ground with the full weight of the car sitting over the wheel.

BTW, what do you mean by rotational tension? Can you explain a little bit?
Old 02-02-2009, 10:53 AM
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Default I have a hunch that he may be right... if this Shabadoo is the Shabadoo I know...

... he is both an engineer and an ex-STaSIS employee.
Old 02-02-2009, 11:18 AM
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Default 2nd, I think it is the position of the shock and bushing that matter rather than the load. If

the bolts are tightened while the suspension is at full extension and then the car is taken off the lift and the suspension is compressed the bushing will be under rotational tension even when the car is not moving. The important thing is to tighten the bolts with the suspension in the position it will be in most of the time which can also be accomplished by jacking the wheel up to normal ride height while the car is on stands.
Old 02-02-2009, 11:26 AM
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Default This logic behind this makes total sense to me. I can see how rotational stresses would be killer...

... especially with the lack of compliance in the new system (rubber bushes are gone from the rear strut mount).
Old 02-02-2009, 01:42 PM
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exactly


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