Questions about trading in my RS4 (theoretical of course)
10-02-2007, 04:51 PM
#21
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You won't get much for $2650 payment on the house
When you buy a home - you have to include:
Property tax
Property insurance
Usually larger utility bill
HOA - usually
Maintenance cost
And you will start buying all kinds of **** at Home Depot, Target, and etc...
So, for 2650 - you might be able to afford a $300k house
You won't find many property here in LA for that
Property tax
Property insurance
Usually larger utility bill
HOA - usually
Maintenance cost
And you will start buying all kinds of **** at Home Depot, Target, and etc...
So, for 2650 - you might be able to afford a $300k house
You won't find many property here in LA for that
10-02-2007, 05:23 PM
#23
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A lot of thoughts...First...you live in Boston...Hold off...Second....
You will get A$$ Fugged on the RS4...Sorry, but as exclusive as it may be, its resale value will suck big time....The technology and the hp wars are growing too fast....if you owe 72, you must have either put nogthing down, or have a crap rate...either way, a bad decision to buy the car in the first place....that said...damn it is a fun one....
I am moving to Boston in a few weeks and will rent, despite owning some property and a couple of condos in Boston, NY, and a rental property in VT....The Market in Boston is horrible right now. I have been following it for about 18 months, and the same homes are sitting on the market. The prices have only dropped about 10%, but I am old enough to remember the trashing the Boston Market in the late 80s took..I would give it one to two years, so maybe it is agood time to start saving...
Bite the bullet on the RS4, I doubt you will get over 60 on it, so there is a 12k loss right there... wait about two years..next time, lease a mercedes or a BMW....still a car is not an investment at all, but your loss will be a little less!!!
I am moving to Boston in a few weeks and will rent, despite owning some property and a couple of condos in Boston, NY, and a rental property in VT....The Market in Boston is horrible right now. I have been following it for about 18 months, and the same homes are sitting on the market. The prices have only dropped about 10%, but I am old enough to remember the trashing the Boston Market in the late 80s took..I would give it one to two years, so maybe it is agood time to start saving...
Bite the bullet on the RS4, I doubt you will get over 60 on it, so there is a 12k loss right there... wait about two years..next time, lease a mercedes or a BMW....still a car is not an investment at all, but your loss will be a little less!!!
10-02-2007, 05:35 PM
#24
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Oh, the A3..thw wife bought one a few months ago...
Sure it is fun...It is no RS4, but then again, gets a lot better mpg, i don't care how close i park to someone else, and i don't wash it too often...gets me from a to b real good.....
you can not beat the BMW leases right now.....
you can not beat the BMW leases right now.....
10-03-2007, 05:29 AM
#26
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Nor here in Boston. But I would rather pay $4000/month for something than $2650/month for nothing.
That's why I'm looking at reducing the car payment so there is more money to put towards a house without grossly affecting other parts of my life such as dinning out, golf, etc.
10-03-2007, 10:20 AM
#29
Couple of thoughts.
Assuming you are leasing? Leases are not designed for getting out of easily. Also, if your lease is through AFS, unless things have changed recently, they do not let you drop off the contract. So while the new leasee may have great credit and be able to take over the lease just fine, you will remain on the contract in #2 position until it is done.
I have had an A3 for 2.5 years (3 yr lease). Mine is utterly stock except for wheels and tires (which save over 5lbs per corner) and a stick. Before getting mine, I had tried the 1st gen DSG in the TT, then the DSG in the A3. As marvelous as it is, I consider it a fantastic alternative to an automatic, not a replacement for a stick.
If you drive the car hard, FWD will drive you batty. Chip it, and it gets worse. By this I mean when you toss the car into a tight turn, and either the traction control cuts power, or the inside wheel lights up if you switch it off. Need to install a mechanical limited slip or get the 3.2 for awd. On the other hand, all that boost at 2000rpms means it is incredibly quick in traffic, and perfect for scooting around town, nipping into slots of traffic that you might not think was possible.
I've driven the 3.2 a couple of times now, and the linear power delivery of the VR6 along with awd (Haldex controller upgrade a must) make it a much sweeter car for twisty roads, if a bit piggy feeling around town at times. If only it came in stick, I'd have one by now.
Interior dimensions are almost identical to an A4. But it's 12 inches shorter, and some of that space vanishes from the trunk. Interior trim may not be as nice as the RS4, but mine has held up well, hauling race tires for our other cars, elephant sized luggage for family visiting from overseas, etc. My one complaint is a bit too much road noise on some surfaces.
As for the 335, a few problems have been cropping up. The automatics do not get oil coolers. Early production cars (produced before May this year) do not get oil coolers whether stick, auto, or sport package I hear. Why does this matter? Remember the thread on AW, and now confirmed other places on the net, where the cars would over-heat when pushed hard, and would go into limp-home mode? I saw that with my own eyes at Willow Springs. Stickshift. Sport package. Carefully broken in by a fellow who used to run a Maserati Biturbo (that takes guts!). It couldn't last more than 10 minutes on the short track without going into limp-home mode. Then the "low oil" light came on, and of course since the car does not have a dipstick, he had to add 1/4 of a quart at t time, then check if the light went out, and hope that his car didn't have one of the faulty sensors some cars are noted to have. If you get iDrive, you can check the level by tunneling into the programs, but that still doesn't help if the sensor is bad.
I have had an A3 for 2.5 years (3 yr lease). Mine is utterly stock except for wheels and tires (which save over 5lbs per corner) and a stick. Before getting mine, I had tried the 1st gen DSG in the TT, then the DSG in the A3. As marvelous as it is, I consider it a fantastic alternative to an automatic, not a replacement for a stick.
If you drive the car hard, FWD will drive you batty. Chip it, and it gets worse. By this I mean when you toss the car into a tight turn, and either the traction control cuts power, or the inside wheel lights up if you switch it off. Need to install a mechanical limited slip or get the 3.2 for awd. On the other hand, all that boost at 2000rpms means it is incredibly quick in traffic, and perfect for scooting around town, nipping into slots of traffic that you might not think was possible.
I've driven the 3.2 a couple of times now, and the linear power delivery of the VR6 along with awd (Haldex controller upgrade a must) make it a much sweeter car for twisty roads, if a bit piggy feeling around town at times. If only it came in stick, I'd have one by now.
Interior dimensions are almost identical to an A4. But it's 12 inches shorter, and some of that space vanishes from the trunk. Interior trim may not be as nice as the RS4, but mine has held up well, hauling race tires for our other cars, elephant sized luggage for family visiting from overseas, etc. My one complaint is a bit too much road noise on some surfaces.
As for the 335, a few problems have been cropping up. The automatics do not get oil coolers. Early production cars (produced before May this year) do not get oil coolers whether stick, auto, or sport package I hear. Why does this matter? Remember the thread on AW, and now confirmed other places on the net, where the cars would over-heat when pushed hard, and would go into limp-home mode? I saw that with my own eyes at Willow Springs. Stickshift. Sport package. Carefully broken in by a fellow who used to run a Maserati Biturbo (that takes guts!). It couldn't last more than 10 minutes on the short track without going into limp-home mode. Then the "low oil" light came on, and of course since the car does not have a dipstick, he had to add 1/4 of a quart at t time, then check if the light went out, and hope that his car didn't have one of the faulty sensors some cars are noted to have. If you get iDrive, you can check the level by tunneling into the programs, but that still doesn't help if the sensor is bad.
