777lee777

[QUOTE=sakimano;24267007] Rather than searching for a someone to tell you that it's ok to do it

Totally missing the point of the question. It is of no value to hear someone say "it is OK" just as much it is of no value to hear "it won't work"... unless specific reasons are given.

Perhaps it is the engineer in me... but I live in the world of facts and proven results based on real experience.

ArthurPE

if you are an engineer you should know why
grinding may cause stress cracks
smaller sectional area may weaken them
heat generated by grinding may affect their temper
in non-tech terms it's a 'hack job', lol

if you are going to the trouble of removing them, might as well replace them with H&R's or something, the springs are cheap, the money is in the installation

my alignment:
first, on the rack for alignment: hoses no rubbing, plenty of clearance, this can be adjusted by the way the shock fittings are tightened down
alignment, it was way out of wack due to the DRC work and springs
after numbers:
front toe, L/R, 0.8/0.9 (spec is 0.85")

Front camber, non adjustable, but it can be equalized L/R, 1.52/1.55, high spec is 1.27, the springs increase it a bit, springs added 0.3 deg or so from before H&R's

rear toe L/R, 0.10/0.11, (spec is 0.095"), total 0.21, spec 0.19
thrust angle 0.01 deg, ideal is 0

rear camber is adjustable and was way out 2.7 or so, high spec is 1.83 deg
dialed in L/R, 0.84/1.02 spec is 1.33, 0.43 low, said after looking at the last setting he used and tire wear this will be better...(last time 1.7 or so, ~spec limit)
why the difference? 0.84 vs 1.02? I asked the same thing, he said get in the car, they both went to 1.2 or so, both sides ~ equal...so loaded both sides ~spec

he also pointed out the front L drivers side acceptable range (green) is wider than the right passenger to compensate for the drivers weight...L ~0.6 deg green range, R 0.35 or so

steering dead center, ar feels great

777lee777

[QUOTE=ArthurPE;24267470]... good info - thanks.

sakimano

arthur do you have the Euro SS setup? Or something different?

does anyone know the process for getting SS? approximate costs?

thanks

BADRS4

I just did my alignment at the stealership and my front and rear toe were both off from Audi specs...and they gave me the report...good info....

ELEVENS

Toblerthedog on the other forum posted this up which is a parts list. I bought everything, including the rear swaybar, helper springs, bushings, etc. from genuineaudiparts.com for a significant discount (under $1000 IIRC). They stock most everything in San Diego. Then the dealer has to do a DRC recharge of course. My dealer did everything for me as part of the DRC campaign which is THE time to do it as the system needs to be depressurized and springs removed, ayway.

RS4Ship

Can we get some feedback on this setup? What were the noticeable improvements and how does this setup compare to KWv3's or Stassis?

ArthurPE

I have the std DRC with H&R springs installed by the dealer during the service action

JMSIV

Just saw this thread. I have a cab and I have always thought the same thing. I have looked into cutting down the springs (I don't think it's a good idea) and spring compressors (can't find anything that will really work).

My thoughts on the issue with the cabs - and someone correct me if the part numbers are different - is that the springs are the same in the sedan as the cab, but we have some 300 pounds extra in the back. So it sits like a sedan with 2 people in the back.

It is annoying. I like the stock suspension. My DRC is setup perfectly. It's not a track car, and I don't want coilovers. But I'd give a nut to drop the front like 1/4 inch!

ELEVENS

Tubi mmmmmm!

Spring compressors - ha! I forgot all about those things.about 40 years ago. They did actually do the job though.... other than falling out occasionally.. Oh, and don't forget those spring expanders - the little wedgey things that you popped in between coils and gave them a 1/4 twist to jack the car up in the back. OMG, did we really do that? Yup.