DOALLAR

I have been sitting on a 034 Density line (race) trans mount and would like to install it within the week. I know it should be a straight forward diy but if feasible would like to see/find write up w/ pics. Are their any good diy write ups for installing B7 S4 trans mount? I've search and could not find any that made sense. Please chime in if you have any do's / dont's.

This would be an addition to (already installed) apikol snub & Jh motorsport short shifter. I still experience a little sponge feeling when on/off throttle and while down shifting.

Thanks in advance!

DOALLAR

Funny no one ever responded... There was little to no info regarding the install even after searching on AW, AZ, & EA forums, especially accessing the reverse 16mm nut that's located on top of the tranny mount, underneath the tranny plate. Anyway I got it done last Friday and it took about 75 minutes start to finish!

First off, I will add my 2 cents for people who are DIY selfer’s and may be nervous about working on your car. Okay, I assume no responsibility for any person who doesn’t use common sense and safety first. That being said, on a scale of 1 to 5 (this is a 2) on ease of installing an aftermarket or OEM tranny mount.

Tools you will need;
-Jack stands or Car ramp
-Floor jack & block of wood
-Flat head screwdriver (stubby)
-45 Torx bit socket
-12mm, 13mm, 14mm sockets (deep well / socket size - depends on tranny mount type)
-16mm (recessed) box end wrench or flexible wrench
- 3/8 or 1/2 drive wrench
*OEM or aftermarket transmission mount – I chose 034 motorsports track/race mount.

First safely put the front of the car onto car ramp or jack stands. Then remove the skid plates with flat head screwdriver. If you have never looked underneath your car – then this is a good point to stop in order to see where you would like to place the floor jack and what side of the car you want to attack the bolts from. I placed my jack just in front of the transmission mount – right underneath wear the cooling fins are. I found that to be the flattest spot and lowest point. Before jacking the tranny up, remove both (2) 13mm nuts and (1) 45 torx nut on the mount. After undoing all 3 nuts – you will notice the 45 torx nut/ clamp will spin in place. That’s exactly what it’s meant to do because Audi made it that way – don’t know why. In order to access the reverse thread 16mm nut on top of the tranny mount. You will have to unbolt (3) 14mm bolts on the mount plate (triangular shaped, (2) bolts in front and (1) behind tranny mount). Be careful not to damage oxygen sensors while attacking the rear bolt. Now it is safe to jack up the transmission (placing a block of wood between tranny and jack). Please go slowly, because you can go too far up and raise the entire car. If you do, let the Jack down slowly and jack up if needed. This will give you about 2 inches of clearance to slide box wrench in between plate and mount to get to the reverse thread 16mm nut with a ‘recessed’ or flexible box end wrench. With the 45 torx bit and the 16mm recessed box wrench you will be able to fully turn the nut until it loosens. Yes, the hard part is now over! Remove the tranny plate and then the mount. You are done! Check the condition of your mount. Mine was perfectly fine after 80K plus miles – I prefer stiffness over slop. Just reverse the procedure for the install.

Hint: when you are getting ready to install the new mount and the tranny plate – make sure to align the plate with the bolt holes before tightening the (middle) 45 torx bolt. If you don’t, it will be misaligned. Be careful not to under or over tighten the bolts. I had no idea of the torque specs – so I snug them down to my preference.
If anyone has the bolt torque specs please feel free to add to this…cheers!