Robert F

...another 150 miles to go. Oil is down to the "C" portion of the stick (just barely touching the metal above the bottom plastic)

Does anyone know the differential between this point and full? (the "A" portion from where the test started)

Also, when does the yellow "add oil" warning come on? (Stick wise and volume wise) I would think it would be coming on soon considering the manual says when it gets to the "C" position you "must" add oil... When it does come on how much will bring it back to the full level?

Thanks.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4b7/msgs/57284.phtml">Original thread</a></li></ul>

BergeyRPI

was, and it wasn't a big enough leak per their atrocious spec, I would pump some oil out of the dipstick with my pump that I use to change my oil.

Robert F

Not my style

BergeyRPI

Or I burn so little between 5,000 mile changes that I can't even tell that it's changed on the dipstick.

Robert F

...or as you say there's no dicernable difference between 5000 miles oil changes.

Audi says 1q/1000 miles is OK (within spec) and they are not going to do anything. Not even give me some oil...!

Personally I think a car with 20K miles that burns so much oil is not so good. It just doesn't seem right to me. Beyond that I can't help but wonder how much it'll be using @ 60K when it's out of warranty... They're telling me it won't get worse for the life of the car. I find that hard to believe, but maybe it's true. I'll certainly be keeping a close eye on it for the next 20K, and unless it improves (highly unlikely) I don't think I'll want to be keeping this car once out of warranty.

RI A6

One RS4 owner had issues with Mobil 1. He changed to Lubro-Moly, which is an approved oil, and it turned in some better oil analysis numbers, along with a consumption of only .8 Qts in 4K miles. It is a full synthetic, whereas Elf is a synth-blend, and seems to be able to keep it's viscosity up high enough to keep the rings sealed.

Then run your engine hard, with 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear 9/10th throttle acceleration runs, followed by compression deceleration. If you do this every day for about a week, (I call it the rubber-band break in method, since you car speeds up and slows down like it's attached to a rubber band), a combination of the oil and high pressures on the rings MAY help them to clean themselves and better seat in the ring grooves. If nothing else, it's fun!<ul><li><a href="http://www.eurosportacc.com/liquimoly_lubromoly_voll-synthese_oil.htm">Lubro-Moly Vollsynthese 5w40</a></li></ul>

Dodge2Dub

What type of oil pump do you use and where did you buy it? Also, how easy is it to replace the oil filter?

Robert F

Thanks for the info

BergeyRPI

The oil filter is very easy to get to. Take the cover off the top of the engine with the audi rings on it. I forget the size of the socket but it's big. I want to say something like 24 mm.

The pump I bought doesn't hold enough oil. So I stop part way through and drain into a pan. There are other pumps that have enough capacity if you care to spend more.<ul><li><a href="http://www.griotsgarage.com/index.jsp">Griot's garage</a></li></ul>

Dodge2Dub

Thanks for the info! I have been sticking with the owners manual recommendations thus far (25K miles), but I think I'm going to start changing the oil every 5K.