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2012 S4 BUY or 2013 S4 LEASE?

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Old 12-15-2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by peteypab
Here is a 2013 premium plus on ebay, has 3700 miles.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Audi-...item19d7792fdc

Buy it now for $48,000.

Another example of a dealer looking to sell cars. This car I bet could be had for $46,500 or $47,000 for a 2013 with some nice options.
Appears to lack the Sport Differential. So it looks to be a P+ with NAV, B&O, advanced key and Peelers. Looks like MSRP is probably around $55K. Saving at least $4K assuming a "new" sales price of about $1K over invoice. But it is a used car that does not appear to be CPO.

A car is a depreciating asset whether you lease, finance or pay cash. If you do not intend to Mod and do not exceed 15K miles per year, I say lease a car. If you put on a lot of miles or want to mod, then buy outright or finance.

The risk of accidents and theft makes it hard to justify putting any significant money down on a lease or purchase, especially with such low interest rates on leases and financing. Unless you are getting a real steal of a deal by paying all cash, keep the money in the bank and make payments.
Old 12-15-2012, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by isles1
Appears to lack the Sport Differential. So it looks to be a P+ with NAV, B&O, advanced key and Peelers. Looks like MSRP is probably around $55K. Saving at least $4K assuming a "new" sales price of about $1K over invoice. But it is a used car that does not appear to be CPO.

A car is a depreciating asset whether you lease, finance or pay cash. If you do not intend to Mod and do not exceed 15K miles per year, I say lease a car. If you put on a lot of miles or want to mod, then buy outright or finance.

The risk of accidents and theft makes it hard to justify putting any significant money down on a lease or purchase, especially with such low interest rates on leases and financing. Unless you are getting a real steal of a deal by paying all cash, keep the money in the bank and make payments.
Thats my concern. I dont want to pay $750 a month for a lease, and the only way to get it down to the $500 range is with about $8,000 or 10,000 down. But the real issue is I do not want to lose that money if there is an accident and the car is considered totaled. Sport differential is not really a big deal to me after doing some research... The car will never be raced, but spirited driving will be done for sure. The Peelers are also not a huge issue. I love the design, and for $70/wheel my local shop will powder them a gunmetal to better fit the look in my opinion.

What is the additional cost for most dealers to do the CPO? about $3200?

If I find a nice 12, I probably would do it if it had the 100K warranty for the right price.
Old 12-16-2012, 06:56 AM
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If you can truly get a good deal on a 2010, 2011 or 2012, then buy one of those. I "bought mine now" for $48,000 from the dealership when it was new and ordered to my spec, so I don't think some random eBay listing is a good representation of the used market.

It's essentially the same car with some styling updates. If you really like nav and need it to do anything, the 2013 is way better and that should push you.
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