Need advice on negotiating on s4
#1
AudiWorld Member
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Need advice on negotiating on s4
I'm am seriously looking at the S4 and am looking for some advice on what the norm is for negotiating over invoice. What is the prevailing consensus on what dealers are willing to live with when it comes to the S4. i'm looking at the premium plus, with silk nappa seats, sports dif and i'm willing to order and wait.
Any insight much appreciated
Any insight much appreciated
#2
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Do you have an Amex card? If so......do it through them. Should be between $300 and $500 over invoice.
http://amexnetwork.zag.com/main.html
Michael
http://amexnetwork.zag.com/main.html
Michael
#3
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I used the Costco Member discount program and received a $2500 discount off of MSRP with zero hassles.
Since the closest dealer with an agreement with Costco was 360 miles I had the salesman at the 'far away' dealership email me the price with options, then I took that email to my local dealer and they matched the offer...on a car I ordered...hopefully it will show up by middle of April.
Also...check out zag.com. click on buyers then buy a car then drive your dream. This is a pretty cool way to get a great price also...and again, it's free!
Good luck to you.
Let us know how it goes!
Since the closest dealer with an agreement with Costco was 360 miles I had the salesman at the 'far away' dealership email me the price with options, then I took that email to my local dealer and they matched the offer...on a car I ordered...hopefully it will show up by middle of April.
Also...check out zag.com. click on buyers then buy a car then drive your dream. This is a pretty cool way to get a great price also...and again, it's free!
Good luck to you.
Let us know how it goes!
#4
AudiWorld Super User
The AMEX or Costco plan sounds like a good idea.
You may wish to check if there is a Lease/Internet sales person. You should be able to get $1500 or more off the MSRP, but this is very location dependant. In some areas the prices are higher and availability is lower.
Looking on Autotrader, there are not that many 2010 S4s in northern California, but a a lot of them available in the area east of the rockies.
Don
You may wish to check if there is a Lease/Internet sales person. You should be able to get $1500 or more off the MSRP, but this is very location dependant. In some areas the prices are higher and availability is lower.
Looking on Autotrader, there are not that many 2010 S4s in northern California, but a a lot of them available in the area east of the rockies.
Don
#6
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I was able to get an S4 Prestige at invoice. My strategy was to visit several dealers to get test drives and have my trade-in (IS350) looked at. After that I scrupulously avoided phone calls or direct contact with the sales people and did everything by email, which seemed to neutralize some of the sales reps tactics. When I got the best offer I insisted that they spell it out in detail in writing before I went back to shake on the deal. I also cast a very wide net for dealership (in New England) and got a much better deal in NH than near Boston where I live.
Another issue for me was establishing the trade-in valuation separately from the offer on the S4. It's a small point, but I found some reps making things ambiguous by blending the two issues. I got as many dealer offers as possible and compared them closely to Edmunds and IntelliPrice estimates. The final thing was making the dealer specify a fixed number for the trade. Several places I visited said their trade-in offers are valid for 30 days, whereas delivery of my S4 was going to take 3 months. I had visions of them trying to squeeze some extra profit from me when I arrived to swap vehicles, knowing that I'd be salivating over the S4 and anxious to get things wrapped up.
Another issue for me was establishing the trade-in valuation separately from the offer on the S4. It's a small point, but I found some reps making things ambiguous by blending the two issues. I got as many dealer offers as possible and compared them closely to Edmunds and IntelliPrice estimates. The final thing was making the dealer specify a fixed number for the trade. Several places I visited said their trade-in offers are valid for 30 days, whereas delivery of my S4 was going to take 3 months. I had visions of them trying to squeeze some extra profit from me when I arrived to swap vehicles, knowing that I'd be salivating over the S4 and anxious to get things wrapped up.
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Excellent tactics!
I found also that many will blend the sale with the trade-in, they will offer you more on trade-in while jacking up the sale price to conpensate. Likewise, if you get a smoking deal on the new car, they will say that this doesn't give them much room to negotiate on the trade value.
The best I have ever done was to find a buyer for my old car, and have them purchase at the price I negotiated with the buyer and have it done through the dealer I was buying new from. This insulates me from the buyer, since they buy used from the dealership, protects that buyer as they have a company to go after for any issues with the used car, and allows me to get the trade value for the tax credit.
I found also that many will blend the sale with the trade-in, they will offer you more on trade-in while jacking up the sale price to conpensate. Likewise, if you get a smoking deal on the new car, they will say that this doesn't give them much room to negotiate on the trade value.
The best I have ever done was to find a buyer for my old car, and have them purchase at the price I negotiated with the buyer and have it done through the dealer I was buying new from. This insulates me from the buyer, since they buy used from the dealership, protects that buyer as they have a company to go after for any issues with the used car, and allows me to get the trade value for the tax credit.
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#8
AudiWorld Super User
Beware of the sales "four square"
The tactic on moving the profit from one quarter to the next is common in car sales.
http://www.edmunds.com/media/advice/...foursquare.pdf
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/financ...7/article.html
"" As the name suggests, the sheet is divided into four large squares:
* Trade-in: How much the dealership will credit you for your trade-in. This figure is credited toward your purchase of a new vehicle. Dealers would like you to put 1/3 down. However, this figure is negotiable and can certainly be less than 1/3 the price of the car.
* Purchase price of the dealer's car: This is the price of the car. Often a dealer will write the price of the car, then write "plus fees," indicating that, on top of the cost of the car, you will pay sales tax, title and licensing fees.
* Down payment: How much cash are you are willing to pay up front? Down payments made using a credit card are also considered "cash up front."
* Monthly payments: How high a monthly auto loan payment are you willing to make? Car salespeople try to get the customer to focus on this figure since it most directly affects a person's budget. ""
One can just sell the car themselves, which is what I normally do, though it is a pain.
Don
http://www.edmunds.com/media/advice/...foursquare.pdf
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/financ...7/article.html
"" As the name suggests, the sheet is divided into four large squares:
* Trade-in: How much the dealership will credit you for your trade-in. This figure is credited toward your purchase of a new vehicle. Dealers would like you to put 1/3 down. However, this figure is negotiable and can certainly be less than 1/3 the price of the car.
* Purchase price of the dealer's car: This is the price of the car. Often a dealer will write the price of the car, then write "plus fees," indicating that, on top of the cost of the car, you will pay sales tax, title and licensing fees.
* Down payment: How much cash are you are willing to pay up front? Down payments made using a credit card are also considered "cash up front."
* Monthly payments: How high a monthly auto loan payment are you willing to make? Car salespeople try to get the customer to focus on this figure since it most directly affects a person's budget. ""
One can just sell the car themselves, which is what I normally do, though it is a pain.
Don
#9
Excellent tactics!
I found also that many will blend the sale with the trade-in, they will offer you more on trade-in while jacking up the sale price to conpensate. Likewise, if you get a smoking deal on the new car, they will say that this doesn't give them much room to negotiate on the trade value.
The best I have ever done was to find a buyer for my old car, and have them purchase at the price I negotiated with the buyer and have it done through the dealer I was buying new from. This insulates me from the buyer, since they buy used from the dealership, protects that buyer as they have a company to go after for any issues with the used car, and allows me to get the trade value for the tax credit.
I found also that many will blend the sale with the trade-in, they will offer you more on trade-in while jacking up the sale price to conpensate. Likewise, if you get a smoking deal on the new car, they will say that this doesn't give them much room to negotiate on the trade value.
The best I have ever done was to find a buyer for my old car, and have them purchase at the price I negotiated with the buyer and have it done through the dealer I was buying new from. This insulates me from the buyer, since they buy used from the dealership, protects that buyer as they have a company to go after for any issues with the used car, and allows me to get the trade value for the tax credit.
#10
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I would have done that if I'd had the time, but I couldn't afford to be without a car if there was any gap between selling and buying, and I couldn't afford to buy the S4 without the money from the Lexus (paying cash). Definitely, selling a car yourself will net you quite a bit more than trading-in, although the difference is partially offset by the reduction in sales tax when you trade.