InfiniteEnd

Hey guys, I have a question in regards to brake maintenance.

I'm on my last 12 months of my S4 before I turn it in and my indicator just went on. I was planning on going to a local shop to get this done but I'm not sure what parts I need to buy (it seems now I need to replace brake sensors too?).
I'm planning on keeping rotors and just doing pads as this is a lease.
Do I need to find a shop that works on Audis to get into Maintenance mode to do the brakes?
Should I have it checked to see if it's front or rear (I don't think the indicator specifies) and get pads for those? I'm guessing it's only front pads but obviously not sure.

Thanks!

mplsbrian

Out of curiousity / as a data point for the rest of us, how many miles are you at? Have you ever tracked the car or how do you use it?

I believe a shop will need a VAGCOM to reset the brake warning lights. You're correct in that there are also sensors to replace. Just call and ask if they can do brakes on late model Audis inclusive of replacing the sensors and resetting the pad life warning lights. Note, some shops charge a different, higher labor rate for customers who bring their own parts.

As for your rotor comment and your question about which pads to replace, lease turn in docs probably specify minimum pad and rotor thickness specs, you should make sure you'll meet them and plan your repair accordingly.

InfiniteEnd

My lights turned on at 24k. I've gone maybe 40 miles since.

Are lease turn-in docs the same ones I got when I leased the car?

My innate distrust for most shops makes me feel if I ask them to look at the brakes and tell me what I need, I'm going to end up doing fronts & rears. But basically - I need buy pads and sensors (and that should be it?) Do I need to top off fluid or flush and refill? I went to a shop for my 20k service and I just did oil & cabin filter. Didnt touch brake fluids.

thanks!

mplsbrian

That seems early, you must either ride your brakes hard or not do a lot of non-highway driving. I'm at 32k and going strong with >30-40% useful pad life left per my shop. I would get your shi- inspected to make sure it's really even wear on both sides, L vs. R , front vs. back, and that you don't have a stuck caliper or something causing premature wear at one of the corners. Although if you did I suspect you'd see it reflected in your gas mileage by now.

No idea, sorry I don't lease. But you could call your dealer and just ask, they'll surely be able to point you to a copy of what to expect at lease turn-in inspection.

I am sorry you feel that way.

Yes, and a VAGCOM tool to reset the dash light.

"Need" is an interesting term. Technically speaking, you rarely actually "need" to change your oil. In the most literal sense, there are only ever the two binary states of:

1. "I don't 'need' to change my oil yet," and
2. "I 'needed' to change my oil exactly 100 feet ago, but because I didn't I am now sitting here with a seized block skidded to a stop on the highway until a tow comes."

And then there is the infinite scale of states in between, one of which is the interval the manufacturer directs you to change your oil at, which they've determined that if followed for 99% of drivers, will avoid binary state #2 entirely.

So too is true with brake fluid. You're supposed to change the fluid (via flush + refill) every 2 years regardless of mileage. Brake fluid is hydrophillic; it takes on water from the atmosphere over time which reduces the fluid's performance, lowers its boiling point, and makes the pedal feel spongy and imprecise, and in severe instances the calipers and entire brake system can corrode if not flushed periodically although this is usually only over larger time scales e.g. heavily waterlogged fluid that is allowed to sit for years in a seasonally ran car. The actual effect this has depends on (among other things):

• your climate (your fluid will take water on more quickly on the humid gulf coast than it would in Arizona)
• whether you'll track the car or drive canyons aggressively (high brake temps = boil risk = fresh fluid is imperative)
• how much you care about brake feel / brake system performance in general
• how much you care that the next owner of your car is offered a well-maintained vehicle that was upkept by a caring owner who could manage to afford both the ~$55,000 car and the whopping $100 periodic fluid flush that comes as part of owning one.

But to your question, do you "need" to flush the fluid to change your brakes?

...No, you do not.

InfiniteEnd

I think I might've spoke to you about this on another thread but like 7k miles ago lol but I feel like 24k is low too. When I had to had some tires mounted and such, the shop told me my pads needed to be replaced but that was at like 17k ish (if I recall correctly). I figured I'd let the car tell me when to change them rather than when they suggested it.

I live in NYC so I do a lot of local driving. I have about a 20ish mile commute daily but in stop & go traffic. I actually use the Audi Traffic Assist and that hard brakes a lot from what I've noticed so that's probably a reason for my premature braking. But when I do drive spiritedly when I get the chance so that probably explains it.

I'll speak to the shop about flushing brake fluid. Thanks for the info!

- Also, what's the thoughts on pad brands though? On ECS, the OEM pads are sold out but the aftermarket pads are available and cheaper for some too... but idk if it's just better to go w/ oem.

colladacool

Just do it yourself. Easy stuff. OBD11 and some parts (borrow it from friends if you don't have)

here's a link on the instructions: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...d-rotor-change

I bought ebc yellow stuff pads for front and oem for rear from ECStuning.com. and parts from harborfreight and done easy! Takes like 1 hour or so to do all four

InfiniteEnd

What's your thoughts on Powerstop Z16 pads? They're so much more aggressively priced than EBC or OEM and I basically need them to work well till December. I like to drive spiritedly on occasion but mostly stop &go traffic.

colladacool

I'm usually one that goes for oem because simply it works or something has been super highly rated which the ebc ones were. I can't say much for the powerstop other than a friend of mine put them on a a4 and he complained the bite sucked or didn't grip well as oem but it did have less dust than oem.
I'd say you can't go wrong with oem. If you're doing it yourself, you're already saving so much money than having someone else do it, why not go for something highly rated or something that has already proven to work. Brake jobs are easy and this car is not much different in brake changes.
I think of it like this, spend a little more now, it is usually worth it in the end, meanwhile you stay happy knowing you got quality products.

$100 here or there won't break the bank especially when driving an expensive car already but it could mean the difference of complaints and/or safety when doing trial and error with different products.

InfiniteEnd

I agree with you, especially if I had the car for some more time but I return this in December

wtmeyer

I have Powerstop pads on my E36 M3 and I can’t wait to swap them out for a set of Hawk pads I bought in December. As Colladacool said, there is not bite during initial pad engagement. You are going to be mashing the pedal in stop and go traffic to feel like you are slowing down. Check the different options on tire rack.com or somewhere similar to find other options.