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Today I finished the surround sound replacement with the FaitalPro 4" midrange. The rear surround level is a little lower than stock but I can just turn it up a few more clicks. These drivers are definitely more clear than the originals, but the rear level is such a small part of the sound in the car that it probably wasn't worth the money. Rear seat clarity took a big step up however.
Exact match on hole spacing Minor trim to the fabric New midrange installed. All done
Well since I have all the speakers and amps already, I figure that if this Pandora’s box is being opened up, might as well do it in one go.
Do yourself a favor and tap into the MOST optical bus and get all your signals from there. I'm STILL trying to get a stable connection between the factory sub amp and my Pioneer amp.
So I started installing a 24 pin Molex connector to allow me to cleanly slice in all the speaker signals right next to the amp in the trunk. I noticed a few things in regards to the amp wiring diagram provided on the first post. Mine follows these colors about 60% of the time. There also seems to be no logic to what color pattern is positive or negative. I’m documenting this so I’ll be able to add that info when I’m done.
Yes they ship to the USA. I've already received one for my center channel.
I just received the peerless... Quick question. Which wire is positive vs. Negative from the amp?
left front mid - brown/green, red/green
right front mid - brown/navy blue, red/navy/blue?
Thanks much
I just received the peerless... Quick question. Which wire is positive vs. Negative from the amp?
left front mid - brown/green, red/green
right front mid - brown/navy blue, red/navy/blue?
Thanks much
I don't remember but if you apply DC to the old speaker (a AA battery will do fine) the cone will move forward (away from the magnet) when the battery + is connected to Speaker +. Then just look at the orientation of the connector from there.
I don't remember but if you apply DC to the old speaker (a AA battery will do fine) the cone will move forward (away from the magnet) when the battery + is connected to Speaker +. Then just look at the orientation of the connector from there.
Hey Bobby,
Tested as you suggested. Brown is ground..
I put in one peerless midrange for a A/B comparison with the B&O midrange. Peerless speaker sound fuller with more low end (warmer sound?). The B&O has this upper male voice that sounds (shrill?) in comparison. I had previously lower the treble control to try to reduce this frequency range.
After the install with an hour of listening time with controls @12 and 3D effects off. IMHO:
improved sonic clarity from all music sources.
The system sounds fuller, more bass, more music detail can be heard.
sound stage more forward with vocals more focused and stabilised on top of dash.
The peerless seems to blend better with the existing system.
When I used 3D effects, the shrillness returned somewhat maybe due to the dash speakers.
Conclusion:
First time I stop playing with the controls while driving and just listen to the music. So, Bobby is correct, the peerless are gems!!
Thanks Bobby!
on the original mids, the woman's voice was shrill and hurt my ears when she raised her voice. The peerless drivers step right up to the line of too much but never go over, and then you realize she's singing in a big church because you can hear her voice echo off the walls.
Is there any way to replace the speakers and maintain MMI functionality for $1,500 or less? I have always had Alpine systems in my vehicles, and this B&O garbage just doesn't live up to my audio experiences over the last 12 years. My old Charger had a full Alpine Type R setup (all component speakers/woofers and 12" sealed sub) and both amps were Alpine, too. And the Eclipse head unit was pretty nice for messing with frequencies... In my last 2 Wranglers (horrible acoustics for audio) I ran full Alpine Type S systems, including amps and head unit, and despite the horrible acoustic properties of the Wrangler, it still blows the B&O system out of the water. I'm not necessarily stuck on stupid for Alpine if you guys think there are better options for the money, but I've grown very found of how my other Alpine systems sounded, so I'd like to maintain a somewhat similar sound profile, if possible. Any input is greatly appreciated!
Changing the speakers has no impact on the MMI experience at all. You'll have to live with the crossover points programmed into the B&O Amp, but you can make it a whole lot better within your $1500 budget if you do the work yourself. Because there's custom fabrication involved, hiring a shop is going to be pricey.
03-01-2020, 10:04 PM
