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Sorry for my slow response, I had some unpleasant matters to deal with.
I really wanted to do a dual sub rear config, but I just didn't feel up to the metal cutting in the rear deck. I was worried about compromising crash integrity. Please take lots of photos and post them when you are done.
I've got an older, year 2000, Infinity Kappa 12" sub that I have in a small single trunk box.
I powered with an 800 watt RMS amp. That sub is low, DEEP, and tight. It would compress air so hard that our ears hurt and I could feel the forced air physically hitting against the back of my head.
Not something one wants for longer than a few seconds, if at all.
I'm not into huge SPL, rather, clarity and clean definition. This sub does that.
I haven't used it since the mid 2000's as stock car audio wiring got more complex and needed processing to get a clean audio signal for the OEM Head units.
Your upgrade has me thinking of just wiring up that Infinity sub and hearing what it can do with the OEM amp.
Thanks!
Should be OK if it's a 4Ohm DVC but don't go lower than that, and if it's a single voice coil, you won't like how little power you get. Sub boxes are great because they solve a lot of the acoustical problems with rear deck mounting as long as you don't mind the space they take up.
Should be OK if it's a 4Ohm DVC but don't go lower than that, and if it's a single voice coil, you won't like how little power you get. Sub boxes are great because they solve a lot of the acoustical problems with rear deck mounting as long as you don't mind the space they take up.
Yes, it is 4ohm, single voice coil.
When I did the build I bridged that amps output to drive it.
It's a 4 channel Rockford Power series amp.
It drove the front components with 2 channels going to x-overs then divided out to bass/mids and tweets with silk domes.
I love the high end tones from silk domes.
BTW, I don't know what I was thinking when I wrote "800 watts RMS". Maybe I was wrongly recalling the "peak" wattage output.
The amp has a solid 125 watt RMS per channel, but when two channels are bridged into a 4ohm load it outputs something like 500 watts RMS.
I can attest to what real RMS wattage can do inside of a close environment like a car. LOUD...OUCH!
I don't recall right now, what is the OEM sub amp's RMS power?
The Infinity 12" Kappa has a very good efficiency rating.
IIRC it was at least in the low 90s, like 91db or 93db, which results in a heck of lot more output compared to shallow mount subs that struggle in the mid to upper mid 80s.
Any idea what the efficiency rating of the stock sub is?
I don't have any way to verify the wattage of the stock amp, but I *think* it's around 125W per channel (two sub channels) into 8 ohms. Could be 250W into 4ohms, but that seems pretty high. Right now I'm driving a sub that's rated 125W per coil that's 4Ohm DVC and it plays pretty well but isn't much louder than the stock woofer.
To avoid breaking the speaker grill on removal:
from inside the trunk, push up on the three retaining clips that you can access thru the access hole. These three clips are on the right side of the subwoofer. Push up hard on the 2 closest to the rear of the vehicle (mushroom clips) till they detach. Then unclip while pushing up hard on the retaining clip closest to the front of the vehicle. The speaker grill will detach on the right side and lift a good inch and a half. From inside the vehicle you will then be able to remove the rest of it without a panel lifter. And without the risk of breaking it.
I'm trying to upgrade my subwoofer in my S5 coupe which I was hoping is similar to the S4. I'm stuck at removing the D pillar. I can get it out so I can grab the edges but there is a clip (see picture) that is grabbing a stud that I can't remove. I've pulled very hard. Does the S4 have the same stud and clip in the center of the panel? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
08-11-2019, 06:10 PM
