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I'm trying to upgrade my subwoofer in my S5 coupe which I was hoping is similar to the S4. I'm stuck at removing the D pillar. I can get it out so I can grab the edges but there is a clip (see picture) that is grabbing a stud that I can't remove. I've pulled very hard. Does the S4 have the same stud and clip in the center of the panel? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
i did this entire replacement in my 2012 S5. If I remember correctly there was a plastic “airbag” badge in the middle of the pillar that had to be pulled up or popped up first. Not completely out just popped up. Then you could pull the entire pillar free. Maybe this is the same for you?
The S5 must be different. You have to push down on the metal clip to release it. I got one side out, the other is being stubborn, held in by a plastic tab closer to the rear. Hopefully get it this weekend.
The metal part isn't supposed to slide out. It just pulls out. Sometimes it pulls out of the mount and falls down into the abyss but think about it from a factory assembly point of view. It s designed to just press in without lateral motion.
The metal part isn't supposed to slide out. It just pulls out. Sometimes it pulls out of the mount and falls down into the abyss but think about it from a factory assembly point of view. It s designed to just press in without lateral motion.
I got it out and it just doesn't pull out. The first picture is the stud. The second picture is with that metal clip pushed down. The hole is clear. The third picture is with the clip pushed up. You can see the metal tabs that grab the back of the stud. The clip is held in the plastic , it won't fall out.
Hello, I was looking at replacing the sub in 2012 A4 and using stock amp. Your documentation is awesome. Thanks for sharing. Crutchfield is recommending Infinity REF1070 but its not DVC. Wanted to get your input on using this sub and if so how the wiring would work compared to the DVC Kicker? Thanks!
If you use a single voice coil sub, you can only connect one of the output channels of the amp which reduces the power output by half. IMO that's not going to work well since it barely has enough power for the DVC kicker as it is. Also I'm not sure how that selectable impedance thing works but every way I can think of really scares me. You would definitely need another amp to use that sub. If you really want to try it, then set it to 4 ohms and connect just one of the factory amp subwoofer outputs to it. That should get you about 100 watts. If you don't like it, then you can always add an amp later.
The Kicker is the best fit from a free-air perspective at the time of writing the guide and if you shop other woofers you should probably look for the highest sensitivity in the free air category. Woofers that need a box won't be able to play the deepest notes when used in a free air application like the rear deck. Generally speaking you should expect a sharp roll off in bass just below the free air resonance rating (Fs).
Ok thanks...appreciate the feedback. With the DVC I assume you just connect coil 1 red/green & brown/green to one coil on the Kicker and coil 2 brown/violet & blue/yellow to the other coil on the Kicker? Probably a stupid question...just checking. I also read that you need to flip polarity as the sub is firing up instead of down?
I don't remember the wiring colors off the top of my head but the factory sub was wired with A+ B+ B- A-. It's one of those things that if you wire one with the incorrect polarity the sub won't move at all. It won't hurt it to do this for a short time, especially at low power levels but don't do it for more than a few minutes. If this happens to you unplug one coil and it'll probably start playing. Just flip the polarity of the one you unplugged. If the sub sounds funny or no bass then flip the polarity on BOTH coils. Note it will take 1-2 months for the sub to break in so don't be surprised if you need to set the sub volume up pretty high at first and then find yourself turning it down later.
I have a question for those of you that have connected a sub amp to the B&O subwoofer output and got it to work.
1. Which amp did you use?
2. Did you use a speaker level to line level converter?
I'm still not able to get my Pioneer amp to play with the sub output. It works if I connect my laptop to the amp, and the B&O amp drives the sub just fine so I know everybody is working ok but for some reason the signal just isn't making it through. There is a 20V DC offset on the signal to chassis and the actual signal levels are more than enough to get the amp a bumpin.
02-16-2020, 06:49 AM
