2nd times a charm. 2 Re install of clutch and its still not disengaging
12-13-2005, 02:44 PM
#24
AudiWorld Expert
I assume you mean it is pinned? ie disabled?
For instance, this clutch was pinned, as can be noted by the 3 visible pins:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/clutch/3_remove/dsc01563.jpg">
Where as this clutch just blatantly doesn't contain an SAC mechanism in it's design at all:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/clutch/5_new/dsc01999.jpg">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/clutch/3_remove/dsc01563.jpg">
Where as this clutch just blatantly doesn't contain an SAC mechanism in it's design at all:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/clutch/5_new/dsc01999.jpg">
12-13-2005, 11:17 PM
#26
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From my own ongoing experience....
When the SAC ring slips and adjusts itself for clutch wear, it has the opposite effect of what you are experiencing. When it's not in the "shipping" position, meaning retracted all the way in the counterclockwise direction, the effect is the the clutch never really fully engages. The pedal is impossible to push all the way to the floor, so much so that it becomes difficult to start the car because it won't travel far enough past the clutch safety switch. The engagement point for the clutch is also higher than desireable, mine being consistently half way through it range of travel before the car would start to move. Because it never fully engaged, it started slipping almost immediately, and now needs to finally be replaced with something new.
I have reset the SAC ring two times now, and every time in my case it has adjusted itself again to the point where the pedal movement and engagement points are as described above. Based on this, my belief is that you have the opposite problem, in that your clutch slave cylinder is not moving far enough to fully disengage your clutch. Try bleeding it if you haven't already, or replacing the unit, as it's not too expensive.
I'm still not sure why my SAC ring kept slipping back into it's incorrectly adjusted position. I can only guess that one reason might be because of my initial incorrect installation. I installed it with the SAC ring out of adjustment. It was bad enough once I got the car running that it required quite a bit of pedal effort to push the pedal past the startup saftey switch. I may have inadvertantly bent the pressure plate springs such that it caused the SAC ring to repeatedly slip again each subsequent time it was reset. But that's just a guess at the moment. I'm tired of dealing with it, so WMS is installing a ClutchMaster Stage 3 setup Monday. I'm hoping is solves my problem once and for all, since the new CM setups don't have a SAC ring anymore.
Hope this helps. For the record, I have been using an AWE LWFW, with a RS4 pressure plate and Vast Performance feramic/kevlar clutch disk.
I have reset the SAC ring two times now, and every time in my case it has adjusted itself again to the point where the pedal movement and engagement points are as described above. Based on this, my belief is that you have the opposite problem, in that your clutch slave cylinder is not moving far enough to fully disengage your clutch. Try bleeding it if you haven't already, or replacing the unit, as it's not too expensive.
I'm still not sure why my SAC ring kept slipping back into it's incorrectly adjusted position. I can only guess that one reason might be because of my initial incorrect installation. I installed it with the SAC ring out of adjustment. It was bad enough once I got the car running that it required quite a bit of pedal effort to push the pedal past the startup saftey switch. I may have inadvertantly bent the pressure plate springs such that it caused the SAC ring to repeatedly slip again each subsequent time it was reset. But that's just a guess at the moment. I'm tired of dealing with it, so WMS is installing a ClutchMaster Stage 3 setup Monday. I'm hoping is solves my problem once and for all, since the new CM setups don't have a SAC ring anymore.
Hope this helps. For the record, I have been using an AWE LWFW, with a RS4 pressure plate and Vast Performance feramic/kevlar clutch disk.
12-14-2005, 06:17 AM
#28
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When the clutch was installed the first time the car was drivable to a
degree...But the engagement point was right off of the floor. Meaning from what I understand that the SAC was not properly adjusted to allow normal clutch travel and disengagement. We have checked the slave and bled the Master; they are fine. We have resurfaced and stepped the flywheel to the factory specs according to thier details. We replaced the TOB.
I am getting a couple of local guys together once the tranny in dropped again to take a look at things and either adjust the SAC correctly or determine that we just need to send the Clutch kit back and get a refund. Clutchmasters actually wants me to send them the PP the DISC and my flywheel to find out what is going on. I am not to thrilled about sending my FW out.
I may end up just putting a standard non SAC PP in and still utilize the CK disc. Thanks for your input.
Why the hell would a clutch manufactuer send a clutch kit out with out explaining this whole SAC issue???? If it is set up for shipping differently than it should be set for install you would think that they would have some directions or WARNING in the package.
I am getting a couple of local guys together once the tranny in dropped again to take a look at things and either adjust the SAC correctly or determine that we just need to send the Clutch kit back and get a refund. Clutchmasters actually wants me to send them the PP the DISC and my flywheel to find out what is going on. I am not to thrilled about sending my FW out.
I may end up just putting a standard non SAC PP in and still utilize the CK disc. Thanks for your input.
Why the hell would a clutch manufactuer send a clutch kit out with out explaining this whole SAC issue???? If it is set up for shipping differently than it should be set for install you would think that they would have some directions or WARNING in the package.
12-14-2005, 08:44 AM
#30
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I guess they don't consider the job exactly DIY.
If you're knowledgeable enough to separate the gearbox from the engine, then I guess they figure you should know about the SAC ring. I know, terribly frustrating. Somewhere in the Bentley manual it mentions the adjustment, but also states that when dealing with a new PP, the adjustment isn't necessary. Mine actually slipped in shipping, as I have proof of it's position after freshly installing it on my flywheel. I've since noticed that Vast ships there PP's with markings on them indicating where the adjuster should be when the customer opens the box. It's nobody's fault but my own for not researching everything before I did the work. That being said, I still can't explain why it keeps slipping back repeatedly after readjusting it several times.