Afraid I might have a TBB tear...which TBB should I get and from where? (2001.5 Stock)...
#1
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I haven't checked it yet but I will this afternoon. All evidence points to TBB and the car has almost 60k miles and AFAIK it hasn't been changed yet (I've had it for almost 9k). Would a stock TBB with revised clamps suffice?
#2
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Probably should change the stocker every 40K though.
If you want something else, you'll probably end up coughing up a minimum of 3X's as much $.
If you want something else, you'll probably end up coughing up a minimum of 3X's as much $.
#4
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It should also last you a long time if you stay stock.
Even if your chipped, it'll last quite a while.
In the long run, I think you're best the the APR Bi-Pipe, especially if you're going up the boost...
As JasonS4 said, with the Bi-Pipe, you don't have to worry about it again!
Even if your chipped, it'll last quite a while.
In the long run, I think you're best the the APR Bi-Pipe, especially if you're going up the boost...
As JasonS4 said, with the Bi-Pipe, you don't have to worry about it again!
#5
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And, for $15, I have a stock TBB in teh trunk, rready to go. He has been quite lonley!
#7
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tiny boost leak.....
Personally, anything you can do to minimize a potential boost leak is better than stock.
You will not know if your TBB was a small hole in it until you overboost and go into limp mode or throw a code.
The issue is that you could be overspinning your turbos for 5000miles until the leak gets big enough to show symptoms.
I do not think the TBB issue is one to mess with.
Personally, anything you can do to minimize a potential boost leak is better than stock.
You will not know if your TBB was a small hole in it until you overboost and go into limp mode or throw a code.
The issue is that you could be overspinning your turbos for 5000miles until the leak gets big enough to show symptoms.
I do not think the TBB issue is one to mess with.
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#8
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At 42K miles, the boot is fine. If one makes a habit of replacing the boot at regular intervals (just like you would a timing belt or any other host of parts on this car), that should prevent any unnecessary risks.
Yes, it's nice to say you've eliminated the problem 100%. But there is some value in saying you've eliminated the problem with a 99% confidence interval, and paid 1/12th of the cost of "solution A".
Yes, it's nice to say you've eliminated the problem 100%. But there is some value in saying you've eliminated the problem with a 99% confidence interval, and paid 1/12th of the cost of "solution A".
#10
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about the TBB - it was just an annoyance.
FWIW, I'm a huge advocate of using cheap things to fix a problem (I've had 710Ns on my stage III forever and would swear by them - never have been a believer in aftermarket BPVs)...and really dislike throwing money in the toilet - for me, the bi-pipe was a good investment.
Just wanted to make sure there was some different perspective on the issue after the first post (and the follow-ups) made it seem like the was no issue at all.
FWIW, I'm a huge advocate of using cheap things to fix a problem (I've had 710Ns on my stage III forever and would swear by them - never have been a believer in aftermarket BPVs)...and really dislike throwing money in the toilet - for me, the bi-pipe was a good investment.
Just wanted to make sure there was some different perspective on the issue after the first post (and the follow-ups) made it seem like the was no issue at all.