after run coolant pumps - old vs. new design
#1
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Here's the old pump housing. It appears the leak was due to the o-ring being dry rotted. I was able to turn/tighten all four housing screws about 1/8 turn.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-724x.jpg">
The old impeller. Notice the concave area between the blades. THe new one is not the same. The motor and this impeller have a magnetic coupling. THe oring is more square than round![Frown](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-725x.jpg">
Very dry rotted square oring.. that should be round.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-726x.jpg">
The motor with the magnetic coupling, that the impeller assy (shown above) fits into.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-727x.jpg">
Backside of impeller assy. No oring on this side.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-728x.jpg">
Old vs. new impeller assys. If you look closely, you'll see two differences.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-729x.jpg">
New
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-730x.jpg">
Old
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-731x.jpg">
New, with oring
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-732x.jpg">
I'll bet anyone $20 that installing a new oring into the old housing would fix the coolant leak. You would need a new oring with ID=1.690" and 0.075 THK. The impeller housing surface that the oring fits around is 1.695" Yea, you would probably need to convert to mm. Maybe someone that would like to save $125 can beta test it
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-724x.jpg">
The old impeller. Notice the concave area between the blades. THe new one is not the same. The motor and this impeller have a magnetic coupling. THe oring is more square than round
![Frown](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-725x.jpg">
Very dry rotted square oring.. that should be round.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-726x.jpg">
The motor with the magnetic coupling, that the impeller assy (shown above) fits into.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-727x.jpg">
Backside of impeller assy. No oring on this side.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-728x.jpg">
Old vs. new impeller assys. If you look closely, you'll see two differences.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-729x.jpg">
New
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-730x.jpg">
Old
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-731x.jpg">
New, with oring
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/after_run_pump/pump_compare/Mvc-732x.jpg">
I'll bet anyone $20 that installing a new oring into the old housing would fix the coolant leak. You would need a new oring with ID=1.690" and 0.075 THK. The impeller housing surface that the oring fits around is 1.695" Yea, you would probably need to convert to mm. Maybe someone that would like to save $125 can beta test it
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#3
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"Emergency" repair, but as far as I know it's still good.
If mine ever leaks I'll just do that or a new o-ring plus sealant.
If mine ever leaks I'll just do that or a new o-ring plus sealant.
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#9
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I'd be willing to try a new oring first if it looks like that's the only issue.
Where did you buy your new $125 pump from? Just curious to see if it can be had for cheaper than that if I end up needing one
Where did you buy your new $125 pump from? Just curious to see if it can be had for cheaper than that if I end up needing one
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