HIS4

Mine is just about to crap out I think. I've been trying not to use the A/C because when I do the voltage dips below 12V with the engine running. I've never taken the front bumper off my car so I'm not sure what to expect under there.

Anything special I should consider while I'm in there?

The_Jerbel (Jordan)

smooth sailing.

bingS4

Maybe a file? I had to take the edge off the mount tab on the new one to get it in there.

visintainer [vis]

a pin or drill bit to hold the serp belt tensioner

DxC

i think it was more a mental obstacle than anything. i tried to live in denial that the starter was bad, but of course the car just sat there for a week.

actually tearing into it isnt that bad, and i learned a lot about how to work on the car (a flex head wrench, and racheting gear wrenches, and rachet extensions go a long way)

when i got the starter out, i tested it ... and the motor still spun, i was worried that something else was broke, not the starter (even though i tested it on the car and it was dead)

i tested voltage across the exciter wire while having a friend turn the key, and it was getting 12v, so that kind of baffled me.

postgame analysis: i guess when i tried to start the car with low voltage, it causes the gear on the starter to jam with the flywheel somehow.

PartyBoyRacing

It's also a good time to give that area a good visual inspection if/when you pull the lock carrier into service position, just to see if anything is looking problematic.

You'll need your radio code since you'll be removing the (-) battery terminal before getting started.

It takes a little finagling to get the Alt in and out of the tight quarters...just maneuver it until you find the right angle. The Alt gets heavy if you're lying on you back maneuvering it in and out...resist the temptation to let it rest on the A/C hoses for a short break.

And be careful working around the A/C hoses. You'll want to remove the two A/C hose mounts to give the hoses some slack...you'll see them once you're there.

The Alt electrical connection(s) are a little tough because they're placed toward the top/back of the Alt. I suggest removing them after you've removed the Alt mounting bolts so you can get you hand up in there while maneuvering the Alt into a position which allows the best access...make sure you don't put any stress on the electrical connection(s). You can undo the wiring harness to get more slack, but you don't really need to unless you're absolutely stuck. If your wiring harness passes under the motor mount, then that's easy to release...just two tie wraps. My harness runs toward the front, then up, so I would have needed to pull the airbox to release the harness...I have a strange S4 where the factory seemed to do things different than most.

You'll want to pull the front end up on ramps to get easy access under the car...sorry, I'm sure you already planned to do that, but I thought I'd mention it.

Make sure you reinstall the four bumper shock bolt on the passenger side of the car when reattaching the lock carrier. That's your tow point so you need them all (I mention this because I almost goofed since it was late and I was tired...my friend caught the error before I put the bumper back on).

- Top Alt mounting bolt tightening torque: 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
- Lower/Inner mounting bolt tightening torque: 22 Nm (16 ft lb)

Dang, after rereading this I noticed that I sound like an old mother hen...peck, peck, peck. Sorry about that.

S4Poor/deux@Curbside

was surprised that I had enough room, but I did. Second time took 30 min' tops. 1st time was a bitch becuase the original alt' didn't want to budge.

HIS4

Also, you have enough room to disengage the accesory belt? That would make it so much easier if I don't need to remove the front clip.

S4Poor/deux@Curbside

a bit easier. But no need to remove all of the front. I'm sure you can do it without even loosening the front, but you'll cut the heck out of your hands trying to get at everything.

kelbrig1

doing it without but ended up needing more clearance just to get the bolt out.