anybody else have trouble cornerbalancing and separately getting negative camber?
#1
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anybody else have trouble cornerbalancing and separately getting negative camber?
the car is still weighing in about 100 lbs heavier on the driver's side, but he ride heights are w/in .5 inches of one another. I guess I'm accounting for 165 lbs of that, but I was told that to decrease weight, you increase the height, which to me, seemed counter intuitive.
Also, the driver's front wheel could only get -1.0 camber. Passenger side got -1.5. Anyone else have trouble going beyond -1.0?
Also, the driver's front wheel could only get -1.0 camber. Passenger side got -1.5. Anyone else have trouble going beyond -1.0?
#3
You're mixing up a lot of stuff...
Corner balancing will not adjust weight left-to-right or front-to-back. The only way to do that is to physically move mass within the car.
The usual goal with corner balancing is to get:
LF + RR = RF + LR
That is all that you can achieve. This is done by jacking or lowering the LF *and* RR as compared to the RF and LR.
If your ride height is off by 1/2 inch left-to-right then this will explain some of the difference in camber left-to-right.
Start by getting your ride height exactly where you want it. Then take your suspension measurements to see how it looks. Then, finally, make small adjustments to get the corners balanced.
By the way, corner balancing on a car with rubber bushings is somewhat futile. :-)
Stephen
The usual goal with corner balancing is to get:
LF + RR = RF + LR
That is all that you can achieve. This is done by jacking or lowering the LF *and* RR as compared to the RF and LR.
If your ride height is off by 1/2 inch left-to-right then this will explain some of the difference in camber left-to-right.
Start by getting your ride height exactly where you want it. Then take your suspension measurements to see how it looks. Then, finally, make small adjustments to get the corners balanced.
By the way, corner balancing on a car with rubber bushings is somewhat futile. :-)
Stephen
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Corner Balance Measurements
thanks... I did exactly that, base set the measures then had it on the scale with me in it.
so, what you said about the cross weights equaling out makes complete sense, I'm just surprised that the driver's side is 200 pounds heavier than the passenger's side. This was w/o me in the car (although we took some weights with me in the car as well).
In any case, the handling is as good as it's ever been - took it out on a few highway cloverleaf ramps - I forgot how good the car can feel if tuned properly.
My measurements were (w/o driver):
LF: 1124 RF: 1044
LR: 766 RR: 646
So the cross weights are 1810 - 1770 = 40 lbs. I was told that under 100 lbs difference is fine.
Total weight: 3580
(just under 1/2 tank but WITH spare, I figured I averaged 2/3 tank on the track w/o the spare. The last time I measured it on a full tank plus stuff in trunk it read 3650 on a less accurate scale.)
Front 2257 60.3%
Rear 1413 39.7%
so, what you said about the cross weights equaling out makes complete sense, I'm just surprised that the driver's side is 200 pounds heavier than the passenger's side. This was w/o me in the car (although we took some weights with me in the car as well).
In any case, the handling is as good as it's ever been - took it out on a few highway cloverleaf ramps - I forgot how good the car can feel if tuned properly.
My measurements were (w/o driver):
LF: 1124 RF: 1044
LR: 766 RR: 646
So the cross weights are 1810 - 1770 = 40 lbs. I was told that under 100 lbs difference is fine.
Total weight: 3580
(just under 1/2 tank but WITH spare, I figured I averaged 2/3 tank on the track w/o the spare. The last time I measured it on a full tank plus stuff in trunk it read 3650 on a less accurate scale.)
Front 2257 60.3%
Rear 1413 39.7%
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