anyone with hybrids from jacob have to adjust wastegate?
09-09-2005, 09:02 PM
#2
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mine were at 6-6.5 psi cracking pressure so I ...
adjusted then to open at 8.5 psi using a mity vac hand help pressure pump. attached to the waste gate line leading out of the n75 valve. worked great
09-09-2005, 09:44 PM
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K04's ? Can you describe the process in a bit more detail ? I'm familar
with the wastegate line, did you have someone work the vac while you adjusted, I assume you watched wastegate waiting for them to move at X PSI ?
Did you adjust the other side with vac also, or did you match the adjustment you made on the other side (ie: number of turns of the nut) ?
Did you adjust the other side with vac also, or did you match the adjustment you made on the other side (ie: number of turns of the nut) ?
09-09-2005, 10:02 PM
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Use a "T" and adjust both at the same time....
The most important thing is that they are in sync. Check with Mike on what he has found to be ideal WG pressure. To much and you get coil bind. To little and they bleed off boost on the top end.
09-09-2005, 10:12 PM
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I adjusted my WG's on every one I bought...
Normally I set them at 9# of actuation pressure. It ends up being about 4.5mm more thread than where Jacob sets them.
At this preload setting the WG's travel is slightly decreased, but nothing worth mentioning. My car is capable of running a pool-table flat boost curve of 9psi to redline.
At this preload setting the WG's travel is slightly decreased, but nothing worth mentioning. My car is capable of running a pool-table flat boost curve of 9psi to redline.
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09-09-2005, 10:47 PM
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Well...
It's not easy adjusting them and synchronizing them from under the car.
I sacrificed a 10mm box wrench by grinding the end so it was a C shaped and barely slid over the shaft. The star pointed C gives you many more turns than you'd get fiddling with it otherwise. I also used a small pair of needle-nosed vise-grips to manipulate the rod, it helps.
The easiest way to do this is from under the car. Put it high on jackstands and lie under there. No need to take off the bellypan either.
Mark the lowest facing portion of the locknut with marker or a scratch or something. Loosen the locknut (the one closest to the actuator body) and count the turns as best you can, using your mark as a reference. To get 4mm it's around two full turns, I think. Do the other side.
Crank down the other two nuts with the wrench. This should take relatively forever, since you can only get tiny fractions of a turn at a time.
Lock the nuts together and put back on the clip.
Test them with a mightyvac or air compressor from the WG actuator circut. Watch to be sure they actuate in synch.
That's about it.
I sacrificed a 10mm box wrench by grinding the end so it was a C shaped and barely slid over the shaft. The star pointed C gives you many more turns than you'd get fiddling with it otherwise. I also used a small pair of needle-nosed vise-grips to manipulate the rod, it helps.
The easiest way to do this is from under the car. Put it high on jackstands and lie under there. No need to take off the bellypan either.
Mark the lowest facing portion of the locknut with marker or a scratch or something. Loosen the locknut (the one closest to the actuator body) and count the turns as best you can, using your mark as a reference. To get 4mm it's around two full turns, I think. Do the other side.
Crank down the other two nuts with the wrench. This should take relatively forever, since you can only get tiny fractions of a turn at a time.
Lock the nuts together and put back on the clip.
Test them with a mightyvac or air compressor from the WG actuator circut. Watch to be sure they actuate in synch.
That's about it.
09-10-2005, 12:03 AM
#9
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i find it unecceptable that they arent matched and setup correctly when recieved
it just seems like such a minor detail. and this isnt just from jacob, almost all turbo builders are guilty of this.
btw- i realized today that i MIGHT have to run BOVs, doh...
btw- i realized today that i MIGHT have to run BOVs, doh...