Aquamist: NE1 ever tapped a bi-pipe for aquamist jets? I am concerned about how well..............
05-18-2004, 05:42 AM
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Aquamist: NE1 ever tapped a bi-pipe for aquamist jets? I am concerned about how well..............
the material that the Bi-pipe is cast from would hold up while cutting the threads....
My other consideration is to weld a boss on to the top of my RS4 ICs and tap those..
My other consideration is to weld a boss on to the top of my RS4 ICs and tap those..
05-18-2004, 06:01 AM
#3
AudiWorld Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,976
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Innovator would know. He sells/installs them.
(518) 434-4077<ul><li><a href="http://www.broadwayautoclinic.com/index.cfm">http://www.broadwayautoclinic.com/index.cfm</a</li></ul>
05-18-2004, 08:38 PM
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes indeed. I'm your Huckleberry. [detailed procedures inside]
Having done this, I can offer some advice:
1) Do NOT drill/tap the bi-pipe while it's installed on the engine, take it out of the car and use a work bench with a vice or something. If you don't want to listen to me on this one, you really aren't that intelligent and should just stop reading this now.
2) Still with me? Locate the holes for the nozzles just after the narrowed cross-sectional area (depressed area in the casting to allow for the timing cover). About 1/2" past that area (inboard, toward the throttle body) is fine.
3) Mark the hole placements after taking measurements on the bi-pipe (ensuring uniformity of placement). Use a sharp pointed center punch and small hammer to create your pilot hole starting point. Drill bits love to drift, so make sure you follow this step.
4) Get some safety glasses on. Use a small drill bit (1/32" or so) for the first pass. Drill perfectly perpendicular with the bi-pipe secured in a shop vice (rags/padding in the vice jaws to avoid scratching aluminum bi-pipe). Once finished going all the way through the first wall in question, do the other hole the same way. Don't let the drill contact the far side inner wall.
5) Now increase the drill bit diameter a little more, but make sure it's LESS than the inside diameter of the threads on the Aquamist nozzle. Use digital calipers to measure this amount.
6) Get to drilling, like you did before. This time use some lubrication (water, cutting oil, engine oil, whatever you can find). Some people just spray water/windex on the bit when drilling. Up to you.
7) Now, pick your last drill bit. This will be the tap drill size for the wacky British threads on the Aquamist nozzle. It's an odd thread pitch they chose. I don't remember off hand what size I used, but I looked it up in my Machinery's Handbook (what, you don't own one? Doesn't everybody?). Be very careful drilling with this last one. I recommend using a bit that's undersized (maybe one step down from the recommended tap drill size). Use some lubrication on the bit when drilling. You don't need a high cutting speed (drill rpm) if the bit is sharp. Apply gentle downforce with your drill press or hand (whatever you're using). Go slow and careful.
8) After it punches through the first wall, stop. Deburr the inner surface around the hole.
9) Now it's time to break out a counter sinking bit (or use a large drill bit, maybe 1/2" dia.). Carefully counter sink the top edge on both holes, only going about 1/16" deep with about a 45 degree chamfer angle. You should have a nice chamfer around both hole edges now. This is critical, since the nozzle has an o-ring seal on it. You need this chamfered edge to properly seal that o-ring when tightening the nozzle later.
10) Now we tap some threads! Get the Aquamist tap out (included in the kit), mount it in a nice T-handle tap holder. Do NOT use a wrench or socket to hold the tap while tapping. If you do, you'll risk failure and ultimately destroy your nice APR bi-pipe. You own an S4, surely you can afford a proper tap holder. Lubricate the tap threads, like you did the drill bits earlier. Place the tap end into the hole and slowly start to rotate it making sure you're keeping the tap perfectly perpendicular to the flat surface of the bi-pipe. While turning slowly, apply medium downforce with your hand (never use a drill or such to tap a hole in aluminum like this!). You are tapping by hand, right? OK, let's move on. You'll start to feel the threads being cut. Go all the way through, then unscrew the tap when you're about 1/2" worth of the threads down. Look at the tap, clean the threads on the tap to get rid of shavings. Retap the same hole slowly. The tap should spin easily now. Remove and repeat on the other hole.
11) Now you're tapped, time to clean up the part. Make sure the inside surface is deburred, then stick the bi-pipe in the sink and wash it. Make sure it's rinsed very well inside and out. Dry it. If you skip this step, you risk metal particulates being digested by the engine.
12) Now take out those Aquamist nozzles you have on hand (we stock them, call me if you don't have any). Do not lube the threads or apply any kind of sealant or thread locker. Carefully hand thread them into the holes one at a time, making sure they each have the o-ring seals installed first. Use a wrench to tighten them to the point that the o-ring starts to disappear from view into the chamfer of the hole. It will deform a bit. Do NOT tighten them too much, just hand snug. You should not have the o-ring crushed and sticking out the side in just one area. Again, just snug them up...no He-Man acts here.
13) Done. Put everything back together and clean up your mess (get ALL those chips off the ground and the vise, I'll be inspecting later).
1) Do NOT drill/tap the bi-pipe while it's installed on the engine, take it out of the car and use a work bench with a vice or something. If you don't want to listen to me on this one, you really aren't that intelligent and should just stop reading this now.
2) Still with me? Locate the holes for the nozzles just after the narrowed cross-sectional area (depressed area in the casting to allow for the timing cover). About 1/2" past that area (inboard, toward the throttle body) is fine.
3) Mark the hole placements after taking measurements on the bi-pipe (ensuring uniformity of placement). Use a sharp pointed center punch and small hammer to create your pilot hole starting point. Drill bits love to drift, so make sure you follow this step.
4) Get some safety glasses on. Use a small drill bit (1/32" or so) for the first pass. Drill perfectly perpendicular with the bi-pipe secured in a shop vice (rags/padding in the vice jaws to avoid scratching aluminum bi-pipe). Once finished going all the way through the first wall in question, do the other hole the same way. Don't let the drill contact the far side inner wall.
5) Now increase the drill bit diameter a little more, but make sure it's LESS than the inside diameter of the threads on the Aquamist nozzle. Use digital calipers to measure this amount.
6) Get to drilling, like you did before. This time use some lubrication (water, cutting oil, engine oil, whatever you can find). Some people just spray water/windex on the bit when drilling. Up to you.
7) Now, pick your last drill bit. This will be the tap drill size for the wacky British threads on the Aquamist nozzle. It's an odd thread pitch they chose. I don't remember off hand what size I used, but I looked it up in my Machinery's Handbook (what, you don't own one? Doesn't everybody?). Be very careful drilling with this last one. I recommend using a bit that's undersized (maybe one step down from the recommended tap drill size). Use some lubrication on the bit when drilling. You don't need a high cutting speed (drill rpm) if the bit is sharp. Apply gentle downforce with your drill press or hand (whatever you're using). Go slow and careful.
8) After it punches through the first wall, stop. Deburr the inner surface around the hole.
9) Now it's time to break out a counter sinking bit (or use a large drill bit, maybe 1/2" dia.). Carefully counter sink the top edge on both holes, only going about 1/16" deep with about a 45 degree chamfer angle. You should have a nice chamfer around both hole edges now. This is critical, since the nozzle has an o-ring seal on it. You need this chamfered edge to properly seal that o-ring when tightening the nozzle later.
10) Now we tap some threads! Get the Aquamist tap out (included in the kit), mount it in a nice T-handle tap holder. Do NOT use a wrench or socket to hold the tap while tapping. If you do, you'll risk failure and ultimately destroy your nice APR bi-pipe. You own an S4, surely you can afford a proper tap holder. Lubricate the tap threads, like you did the drill bits earlier. Place the tap end into the hole and slowly start to rotate it making sure you're keeping the tap perfectly perpendicular to the flat surface of the bi-pipe. While turning slowly, apply medium downforce with your hand (never use a drill or such to tap a hole in aluminum like this!). You are tapping by hand, right? OK, let's move on. You'll start to feel the threads being cut. Go all the way through, then unscrew the tap when you're about 1/2" worth of the threads down. Look at the tap, clean the threads on the tap to get rid of shavings. Retap the same hole slowly. The tap should spin easily now. Remove and repeat on the other hole.
11) Now you're tapped, time to clean up the part. Make sure the inside surface is deburred, then stick the bi-pipe in the sink and wash it. Make sure it's rinsed very well inside and out. Dry it. If you skip this step, you risk metal particulates being digested by the engine.
12) Now take out those Aquamist nozzles you have on hand (we stock them, call me if you don't have any). Do not lube the threads or apply any kind of sealant or thread locker. Carefully hand thread them into the holes one at a time, making sure they each have the o-ring seals installed first. Use a wrench to tighten them to the point that the o-ring starts to disappear from view into the chamfer of the hole. It will deform a bit. Do NOT tighten them too much, just hand snug. You should not have the o-ring crushed and sticking out the side in just one area. Again, just snug them up...no He-Man acts here.
13) Done. Put everything back together and clean up your mess (get ALL those chips off the ground and the vise, I'll be inspecting later).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TTapsale
TT (Mk1) Discussion
5
06-18-2004 01:33 PM
Imola Ghost
S4 / RS4 (B5 Platform) Discussion
3
09-28-2003 06:34 PM
Jeff Vader - boscoj
S4 / RS4 (B5 Platform) Discussion
1
05-15-2002 07:16 PM
