SantorinSilver

if the new one has the same Bosch number. Can they tell this was not the orignal?

I remember reading some posts about not having the dealer codes with the new one. What are the dealer codes?

I know it has been said before, but if you are going to chip your car, purchase a spare ECU and keep your original. There is too much at stake to not pay the extra $500-$600 for peace of mind.

Lastly, where is the best place to purchase a new ECU, and what would I expect to pay.

Thanks in advance.

Andy Hedin

<ul><li><a href="http://www.clairparts.com">Clair Parts Express</a></li></ul>

George @ BostonAudi

Don't chip your stock ECU... you'll end up buying a new one that was manufactured months after your car, and the game is up at that point.

SantorinSilver

Are you saying you can't get the ECU for older cars? I find that hard to believe.

George @ BostonAudi

It has nothing to do with part numbers. But if your car is a 3/00 build, and your ECU (with the same part number) is a 5/00 build then they know you replaced it.

funkadelic

but it should be within a month or two _prior_ to the car's build date from what i've seen. the build date of the ECU is stored in the ECU itself I believe (block 80?)

NASA racer

the ONLY place the ECU build date is...is on the lid...which could be switched...not that I'd condone that or anything.

SantorinSilver

You seem to agree with funkadelic and then disagree by saying the build date is only on the ECU, not in the ECU.

Please clarify, thanks again.

NASA racer

for identification purposes...the date does NOT match the build date of the car but even the stupidest dealer could tell if your 6/00 car had a 9/00 ECU.

The lid is the only reference they have to go by and that's held on with 4 torx screws.

Know what I mean?

funkadelic

i actually just checked measuring block 80 w/vag-com and it reports "bin bits". dunno what that means, but Uwe's site listed this block as holding the build date of the ecu, but perhaps it doesn't apply to our ecus in particular...