Connections for stock head unit to amps (long) - RCA/600ohm
05-02-2000, 05:31 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Connections for stock head unit to amps (long) - RCA/600ohm
Hello everyone... Sometime ago I posted that it was possible to get RCA/600 ohm outputs from the stock head unit... Some people have requested details, so here are my brainstorm notes. Sorry they are soo confusing and unorganized..
Here are some notes I do remember.
1) It was simple if you are very electronic savvy. Unfortunately most audio-shops are not (including the one I brought it too - I had to do the radio connection and then they cookie-cutter installed the rest). Beware - they will try to tell you it can't be done - it can.
2) The rear speakers ARE 600 ohm outputs right out of the head unit. Unfortunately they are NOT rca jacks - instead they are in the connector. Fortunately the connector pinouts are on the label on the top or bottom of the radio.
Ahhh - it's coming back to me.
3) I think next to that plug there is another plug that normally goes to the bose amp, but not connected if you don't have a bose amp. That connector is the RCA-level (600 ohm) outputs for the fronts. The connector for that is almost the same as the connector they use on the crappy intergated rear-speaker amp (without bose). I took the connector from the rear amp(speaker-driver side) and cut it up, moved a pin. That then plugged into the head unit and gave me my rca outputs for front. I just cut the one that went to the back and soldered rca jacks to it.
If I remember correctly the pinouts are clear on the label - I think I had one or 2 commons and tied them all together. I verified they were all tied together to signal ground internally.
4) I did not use the powered output for the front speakers out of the head unit - left that unconnected.
5) The power-signal when radio-on line was also marked on that label. It goes to the amp on the driver speaker in the back. I think it was possible for me to leave that in-tact on the head unit and cut it in the back to connect to the amps.
6) Actually I don't remember if I ran new cabling for the rca's for the rear or just spliced into what fed that rear-driver... I think I ran new cabling because what was in there looked unshielded.
If you have the Bose amp, you can either splice into the front-rca-line level connector (I left the bose amp running the rear DOOR speakers) or just cut it and splice rca patch cables into it.
BTW - I found that the length of the car is a multiple of 1/2 wavelength for most subwoofer frequencies - it sounds better in the front of the car if you set the sub to be out-of-phase in the trunk.<p>
Here are some notes I do remember.
1) It was simple if you are very electronic savvy. Unfortunately most audio-shops are not (including the one I brought it too - I had to do the radio connection and then they cookie-cutter installed the rest). Beware - they will try to tell you it can't be done - it can.
2) The rear speakers ARE 600 ohm outputs right out of the head unit. Unfortunately they are NOT rca jacks - instead they are in the connector. Fortunately the connector pinouts are on the label on the top or bottom of the radio.
Ahhh - it's coming back to me.
3) I think next to that plug there is another plug that normally goes to the bose amp, but not connected if you don't have a bose amp. That connector is the RCA-level (600 ohm) outputs for the fronts. The connector for that is almost the same as the connector they use on the crappy intergated rear-speaker amp (without bose). I took the connector from the rear amp(speaker-driver side) and cut it up, moved a pin. That then plugged into the head unit and gave me my rca outputs for front. I just cut the one that went to the back and soldered rca jacks to it.
If I remember correctly the pinouts are clear on the label - I think I had one or 2 commons and tied them all together. I verified they were all tied together to signal ground internally.
4) I did not use the powered output for the front speakers out of the head unit - left that unconnected.
5) The power-signal when radio-on line was also marked on that label. It goes to the amp on the driver speaker in the back. I think it was possible for me to leave that in-tact on the head unit and cut it in the back to connect to the amps.
6) Actually I don't remember if I ran new cabling for the rca's for the rear or just spliced into what fed that rear-driver... I think I ran new cabling because what was in there looked unshielded.
If you have the Bose amp, you can either splice into the front-rca-line level connector (I left the bose amp running the rear DOOR speakers) or just cut it and splice rca patch cables into it.
BTW - I found that the length of the car is a multiple of 1/2 wavelength for most subwoofer frequencies - it sounds better in the front of the car if you set the sub to be out-of-phase in the trunk.<p>
05-03-2000, 04:33 AM
#2
Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 4,259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My only addition would be that if the time delay is a concern, then reversing the phase of the
rear speakers is not the answer. That will sort of correct one narrow frequency range, narrower than the sub-bass range, and will screw others up more. There are a number of time shift correctors available on the market, now, that is a better solution. Delay the front channels in time, not phase, to match the rear channel arrival.
It will help, but will make the stereo definately a driver's only stereo, back-seat listeners will not have the best situation!
It will help, but will make the stereo definately a driver's only stereo, back-seat listeners will not have the best situation!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AndrewWK
Audi Original "S" Cars
22
08-10-2015 12:05 AM
angryswede
A4 (B5 Platform) Discussion
0
11-14-2002 03:12 PM
Paul Dirac
Audio, Video and Security Discussion
1
03-07-2001 10:39 AM
