CV Joint Boot?
#1
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Installing suspension today we accidentally cut the outer CV Joint boot. I just read the CV Joint Tech Article and I'm curious if there is an easy way to replace the boot without remove the whole axle.
Can I just disconnect the two bolts at the bottom of the lower control arm in order to get outware tilt on the assembly. Then Pull the CV Joint apart and replace the boot.
For now I patched it with some Goop and it seems to be holding pretty well and its near the hub so it doesn't see much flex.
Any suggestions on how to replace it. I assume I'll just order the Boot Assembly from ECS or Clair and go from there.
Thanks in advance
Can I just disconnect the two bolts at the bottom of the lower control arm in order to get outware tilt on the assembly. Then Pull the CV Joint apart and replace the boot.
For now I patched it with some Goop and it seems to be holding pretty well and its near the hub so it doesn't see much flex.
Any suggestions on how to replace it. I assume I'll just order the Boot Assembly from ECS or Clair and go from there.
Thanks in advance
#5
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It's a very very messy job and you will have a limited space to reinstall the boot. You will also have to hammer the joint back on and it's difficult enough to hit it straight while on a vise let alone while it's on the car. You might have to remove the entire hub to even get a clean, straight hit on it. There are only 6 bolts that hold it to the trans and it is pretty easy to remove the whole axle. You'll save yourself a priceless amount of swearing and stress. It only takes an additional 30 min max to remove the entire axle. You can use the tip of threading the axle bolt back in the cv joint once it's been removed from the hub to seperate it from the axle rather than beating it out with a punch.
#7
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i just remove the outer from the hub then pull the axle off to the side. Then use the axle bolt to pop the end off. Replace the boot and use a brass hammer to drive end back on. I'm a flat rate tech so every saved min counts for me. It is less fighting if you take the axle off the car.
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#8
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Yeah,
Just about every forum post / tech writeup for the front wheel hub or CV joint shows a 14MM hex for the wheel hub bolt. This is true for the rears.
I was replacing my tie rods, and installing PSS9's this weekend when I noticed that the driver's side outer CV boot recently split. Grease everywhere. Quite nice.
In any case, still working on it. Realized that I don't have an 8mm triple square, had to make a 17mm hex (from hex key) - and that there's no short cut. The shaft needs to come out.
Bummer.
Just about every forum post / tech writeup for the front wheel hub or CV joint shows a 14MM hex for the wheel hub bolt. This is true for the rears.
I was replacing my tie rods, and installing PSS9's this weekend when I noticed that the driver's side outer CV boot recently split. Grease everywhere. Quite nice.
In any case, still working on it. Realized that I don't have an 8mm triple square, had to make a 17mm hex (from hex key) - and that there's no short cut. The shaft needs to come out.
![Frown](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#9
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I'll write-up an updated procedure for anybody else that's interested. What I've found in the forums or tech articles are either a bit outdated or slightly incorrect.
For what it's worth.
Front wheel-hub is 17MM HEX. Sears sells this, or you can cut off the end of a 17MM hex key (I did.)
Inside CV to differential bolts are 10MM triple square (a.k.a. 12 point star) bolts.
Remove 10mm triple square FIRST, with car on jack stands raise suspension to normal or slightly elevated ride height and remove 17MM wheel hub bolt. While bolt is still slightly threaded hammer out CV from hub with dead-blow hammer on face of 17MM bolt.
Turn wheel full right or left to work rear CV down and out of chassis.
For what it's worth.
Front wheel-hub is 17MM HEX. Sears sells this, or you can cut off the end of a 17MM hex key (I did.)
Inside CV to differential bolts are 10MM triple square (a.k.a. 12 point star) bolts.
Remove 10mm triple square FIRST, with car on jack stands raise suspension to normal or slightly elevated ride height and remove 17MM wheel hub bolt. While bolt is still slightly threaded hammer out CV from hub with dead-blow hammer on face of 17MM bolt.
Turn wheel full right or left to work rear CV down and out of chassis.
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