Do you think I can hit 1/4 in 13.8 with Milltek Exhaust & forge valves and 120pound MAN in a car?
01-15-2002, 07:21 AM
#22
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13.5 is out of reach the way you're set up. 13.8 is about the max
The fact that your asking these questions and that you use a basic sentence like "If I am a really good driver..." means you probably don't have a lot of dragstrip experience.
What constitutes a really good driver? John Force is a better 1/4 driver than 99.999999% of the worlds drivers, but he could be beat by Sarah Fisher around an IRL track by embarassing proportions.
My point is, what "is" a good driver is an opinion. What you need to be is a good drag racer. You need launching skills, shifting skills and vehicle prep skills.
You want to fill your tires to the max the sidewall permits. You need to run as little gas in your tank as possible. You should pull your spare tire. You should let the car idle between runs with the hood up (DO NOT SHUT IT OFF AT ALL, AS IT WILL HEAT SOAK), run the best gas you can (100 octane?) and you should short stage your car (line up as far back as possible with both et lights still illuminating).
This, and a bunch of experience, might get you to 13.7. On the other hand, you still need to have perfect temp and barometric pressure conditions, along with altitude.
If you are a "good driver", you will probably start out at 14.1-14.2, and move down as you get more runs in. Remember, making up 1/10th is MUCH harder than it sounds.
Mike S
What constitutes a really good driver? John Force is a better 1/4 driver than 99.999999% of the worlds drivers, but he could be beat by Sarah Fisher around an IRL track by embarassing proportions.
My point is, what "is" a good driver is an opinion. What you need to be is a good drag racer. You need launching skills, shifting skills and vehicle prep skills.
You want to fill your tires to the max the sidewall permits. You need to run as little gas in your tank as possible. You should pull your spare tire. You should let the car idle between runs with the hood up (DO NOT SHUT IT OFF AT ALL, AS IT WILL HEAT SOAK), run the best gas you can (100 octane?) and you should short stage your car (line up as far back as possible with both et lights still illuminating).
This, and a bunch of experience, might get you to 13.7. On the other hand, you still need to have perfect temp and barometric pressure conditions, along with altitude.
If you are a "good driver", you will probably start out at 14.1-14.2, and move down as you get more runs in. Remember, making up 1/10th is MUCH harder than it sounds.
Mike S
01-15-2002, 07:32 AM
#25
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I don't know about an S4, but an A4 will get heat soaked if you let it idle
only driving it and getting air to the box will help...I don't think there is an advantage to letting it idle as oppose to shutting it off.
01-15-2002, 08:03 AM
#27
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Well, having done extensive temperature tests, I don' think, I know!
My car will drop from a post run oil temp of 225-250 to 195-210, while idling for 10 minutes. I also have take temerpature probe and pyrometer probe measurements of the intercoolers, throttle body, intake manifold, and block, all wich get significantly cooler with the engine running and the hood up, compared to shutting the car down.
Shutting the car down stops the cycle of coolent and oil, and shuts off the fans. This allows for less internal cooling and lets the air remain stagnate under the hood, thereby heating EVERYTHING up.
Three things to consider. I don't know if you drag race, but at most tracks, there is very little place to be driving your car around to cool it down, as you imply. Secondly, I am not guessing, I am speaking from scientific tests and actual ET expreience. Thirdly, the S4 (North American market) not only has larger fans, but an additional fan and an oil cooler.
Mike S
13.060 at 106.7mph on just an APR chip, a scorpion exhaust and an S-Flo (running HEAVY R-28's with taller 235/45-17's)
Shutting the car down stops the cycle of coolent and oil, and shuts off the fans. This allows for less internal cooling and lets the air remain stagnate under the hood, thereby heating EVERYTHING up.
Three things to consider. I don't know if you drag race, but at most tracks, there is very little place to be driving your car around to cool it down, as you imply. Secondly, I am not guessing, I am speaking from scientific tests and actual ET expreience. Thirdly, the S4 (North American market) not only has larger fans, but an additional fan and an oil cooler.
Mike S
13.060 at 106.7mph on just an APR chip, a scorpion exhaust and an S-Flo (running HEAVY R-28's with taller 235/45-17's)
01-15-2002, 08:09 AM
#28
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I idle up to about 30 minutes, depending on ambient. I base my shut down on temp readings...
I take of the engine bay(generally the intercoolers and intake manifold, but a good place to check by hand if you don't have a thermometer is behind the drivers side headlight. The air being blown through there after a run or track time is really hot (barely bearable to the bare hand). After about an undetermined time (ususally 10-30 minutes), the air coming through is much cooler. This means your radiator and oil cooler have cooled down, meaning your motor has cooled down. I have it down to a science, where I can tell pretty much by hand shen to shut down.
Mike S
Mike S
01-15-2002, 08:12 AM
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Assuming you have a nice day weather wise - YES
I ran 14.2 on a 2.0 60' with my car. Way I see it : If you nail the launch (~1.8) and figure in your exhaust is helping a bit I wouldn't be suprised to see a 13.8 at all.