JMS-Four

Yes, you can turn up the boost, but only to a point, and keep in mind there is max boost, then there is max boost at redline.

That is my car the Bruce showed the logs on. I have Revo with the SPS3 module that allows me to manually set boost settings, but I run it with a MBC in MBC only mode to peak around 17 and hold as much as it can through redline.

The limits of the k03 are just that. I can actually get the car to boost to around 25psi, but the taper is generally the same level. k03s can only deliver so much, and the 2.7 can only deliver so much exhaust pressure. And, since I don't have GTs or k04s sitting in my garage ready for an install, I don't have my car boosting to 25 psi, but rather 17 for longevity considerations.

Yeah, I'm with you on the questions thing. Asking is how we learn and there is so much going on with these engines (fueling, timing, boost, etc) it's best to ask rather than just go at it alone, imo.

Good luck, man, these cars are fun to tune.

rktskicar

Hey Jeff, how's it going man? As you can see, I have a new rig.

Bruce

Dexster818

Thanks Man i appreciate it. and yeah im going to raise the booste to a right level on the safe side first im waiting for my gauge to come in to see what level its at , then im going to set the MBC im going to see what i can do so 17 psi is the right amount? for a K03

FateXer0

If you spent the same amount of time searching as you were typing, you would have your answers by now...

The only thing the MBC is going to do for you is cap boost spikes which you shouldn't be having anyways with your k03's.

thejulex

Depends how he mounts it ofc... But he definitely should not EVER mount it so that MBC controls the boost exclusively b/c we know what 17psi request will do to his car at 7k rpm without equivalent of stage 3 fueling...

P0234

Some people learn better with a hands on approach.

GrandPaJohn

Yes

TwentyValveB5+S4

I can't believe I'm actually posting here, but for some reason I don't want to see this guy blow up his car, because he'll eventually end up on QW asking why his engine grenaded.

Here goes...

I will answer the basics, but I'm a firm believer in teaching a man how to fish vs. buying him a fish taco.

1) Raising boost pressure alone can result in more power, but without tuning and fueling to match, you risk damaging the motor. Higher boost = more stress on the turbos, too. This is where you want to know where the turbo is most efficient. Too much boost and not only are you risking instaploding of the turbos, but they just become a heat pump and actually REDUCE performance beyond a certain pressure, especially with stock intercoolers.
FWIW, I ran 18psi taper to 14psi on pump gas, and a 20psi spike on race gas (110 octane), and that's on the high side of what the K03s should be running.
Any tweaking like this should be done with a lot of logging and analysis of said logs to ensure knock voltages, correction factors, and AFR are all within acceptable ranges.
Your K03s will eventually blow up no matter what you do, but more boost will make that happen sooner than later.
Search terms for this point: MBC, TCD, turbo lady, homebrew, compressor maps, FMIC, SMIC, ECU-X, VAG-COM, ECUxPlot, KV, CF, AFR

2) K03 tuning has been around since the 2.7t hit the market back in '98 in Europe. It's been here in the states for a decade. The stock intake, injectors, MAF are all sufficient for what boost you *should* be running on K03s. Your GIAC file is tuned for your stock intake, turbos, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator with the limitations of such in mind. Changing out injectors, MAF, etc. without getting a hardware-specific tune will only hurt performance and likely reliability.
Search terms for this point: GIAC-X, STFA n00b

3) If you want more power with your stock turbos, you need to look at the supporting mods that can let the turbos flow more freely and the engine breathe easier.
Search terms for this point: Downpipes, piggies, intercoolers, cat-back, darintake.

4) 14PSI is 14PSI, not 7PSI per turbo. PSI = pounds / square inch. It's a ratio. Each turbo makes the same boost (unless you've got one that's dying, then the other one works overtime and eventually dies early too).
Search terms for this topic: Requested v. actual, PID, N75, math, physics

Dexster818

good stuff and yeah dude i understand all of that dont look at me like im a total noob. i under stand for more boost you need more air pressure from exhaust... intake... bigger intercoolers ext ext... i understand all of that but my question was that what is a normal psi for the engine not to blow up? is 15-17 max good psi?
and i didnt know that each turbo has the amount of psi example 14 each but if thats so doesnt it make it a hight psi? because i think each turbo might be 7 each or so to add up to make 14 if they were both high numbers wouldnt it be high psi? but yeah im going to still reasearch and no i wont blow up my engine im not that dumb to say woops look what i did but thank you to all the comments

TwentyValveB5+S4

the GIAC-X chip should put you at a 16-18psi spike or so, which is good. You'll likely taper to 12psi without a very free-flowing exhaust... then you may sit around 13-14psi around redline. You will have just enough fuel for that with stock injectors/FPR, and your motor will be fine.

WRT pressure, think about it like this.

Say you've got two one-lane roads that merge into a two-lane road.

You've got a car in each lane, prior to the merge, traveling at 50MPH. The average speed of the cars in each lane is 50MPH.

When they merge, you now have two cars going 50MPH, and the average speed of the cars on the road is still 50MPH, but now you have twice as many. You don't suddenly have one car going 100MPH.

PSI is a ratio, a pressure. The VOLUME of air is essentially doubled with two turbos (two lanes), but the PRESSURE is not (average speed).

Does that make sense?