Driver side CV boot is torn pretty bad
12-27-2008, 12:52 PM
#1
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Driver side CV boot is torn pretty bad
but I suspect a its had a minor tear for a few weeks (car is not driven often). No noises from a bad bearing or anything like that.
Question is, do I buy a new CV boot (inner and outer) or do I just get and entire axle assembly?
and, I'm not doing the work.
Question is, do I buy a new CV boot (inner and outer) or do I just get and entire axle assembly?
and, I'm not doing the work.
12-27-2008, 01:08 PM
#2
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It's probably about the same labor to do both inner/outer or replace the axle.
I've always just swapped out axles, fairly cheap with a core. But then again, this is me doing it myslef, not a shop.
12-27-2008, 02:20 PM
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I just replaced my front driver side cv boot today
The boot kit was around $15 from purems. I unbolted the upper arms and lower coilover bolt, then removed the cv joint from the hub. WIth the shaft shifted forward, I removed the joint from the shaft (left the shaft attached to the tranny).
I took the cv joint to the work bench and squeezed new grease into it, then reinstalled to the shaft.
It took longer to clean the mess of grease from everthing than it did to replace the boot. With the wheel off the car.. I wiped a ton of grease from the inside of the wheel.
I took the cv joint to the work bench and squeezed new grease into it, then reinstalled to the shaft.
It took longer to clean the mess of grease from everthing than it did to replace the boot. With the wheel off the car.. I wiped a ton of grease from the inside of the wheel.
12-27-2008, 03:34 PM
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I really don't see the point of going to the trouble of doing a CV boot kit. It's pretty straight
forward to just pull the axle, & for $175, put in a stronger than stock Raxles axle.
My $.02.
My $.02.
12-27-2008, 04:05 PM
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I just went through this, mine was a huge hassle...
first and worst part was deciding what to do- replace boot, or replace axle? I was afraid I got dirt and water in the joint and it would eventually wear out. So I replaced both fronts. Got the parts from PureMS, they are made by EMPI, which I have heard bad things about, made in china, etc. So, I ended up keeping my old axles, and in the spring I'll replace the boot myself.
If I were doing it all over again, and you could find someone decent to do JUST the boot, I would do that, even if it cost ~$150. If it is indeed a small tear, and you don't drive it much, chances are the joint is 100% fine, so I wouldn't worry.
Good luck. My indecision and other complications made my situation take nearly 3 months and cost me nearly $400 for parts and labor to do both front axles.
If I were doing it all over again, and you could find someone decent to do JUST the boot, I would do that, even if it cost ~$150. If it is indeed a small tear, and you don't drive it much, chances are the joint is 100% fine, so I wouldn't worry.
Good luck. My indecision and other complications made my situation take nearly 3 months and cost me nearly $400 for parts and labor to do both front axles.
12-27-2008, 05:04 PM
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Where did you hear "bad things" about PureMS Empi Axles?
I searched around when I got one from them and posted here for info with no responce.
Did you hear bad stories about those axles?
Did you hear bad stories about those axles?
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12-27-2008, 06:55 PM
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2nd, the outters rip from the wheels turning so much, inners rarely go bad,
the boots rip and let the grease sling out under speed, but it usually keeps the dirt out, because the boot is still there, if it was me i would just clean the cv with some brake cleaner or such, repack with grease and replace the boot. "depending on how long its been clicking"
i have let mine click for over 6 months or so and repacked em fine.
you have to hold the axle and hit the outer cv with a soft hammer to pop it off, otherwise you will pull the inner loose if you yank on it. thats the hardest part "as long as your upper tie rod/ control arm bolt is not seized"
oh and you need the 17mm Allen and a breaker bar to get the axle bolt loose! have a friend hold the brakes when you loosen it, unbolt the wheel, screw 2-3 lugs back in to hold the rotor from moving
i have let mine click for over 6 months or so and repacked em fine.
you have to hold the axle and hit the outer cv with a soft hammer to pop it off, otherwise you will pull the inner loose if you yank on it. thats the hardest part "as long as your upper tie rod/ control arm bolt is not seized"
oh and you need the 17mm Allen and a breaker bar to get the axle bolt loose! have a friend hold the brakes when you loosen it, unbolt the wheel, screw 2-3 lugs back in to hold the rotor from moving
