extended warranty question(s).. legalese help/opinions required
12-29-2003, 09:38 AM
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extended warranty question(s).. legalese help/opinions required
Ok, this is a question for anyone with an extended warranty that has gone to battle with the insurer, or anyone with some knowledge in this area. I'm suspecting I have the lower control arm devil (small clunks when turning over small bumps at low speed)... and I'm "prepping" for dealing with the insurer.
My policy covers all suspension components for "breakdown".. here is their definition of breakdown.
<I>Means the failure of a covered part under normal service. A covered part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which is was designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. A gradual reduction in a part's operatiing performance will not be considered a breakdown, including, but not limited to: vibrations; noises including squeaks, rattles, whines or groans</I>
The part that concerns me is the "gradual reduction" bit, seems kinda silly because a lot of parts on a vehicle gradually fail. Would I be right in taking the tact that the bushings on the control arms have failed, causing the clunking sound (especially since this is a historical problem with the 4 series)? Anyone with experience in this, or an opinion, please chime in and let me know your thoughts.
Thanks,
Earnie
My policy covers all suspension components for "breakdown".. here is their definition of breakdown.
<I>Means the failure of a covered part under normal service. A covered part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which is was designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. A gradual reduction in a part's operatiing performance will not be considered a breakdown, including, but not limited to: vibrations; noises including squeaks, rattles, whines or groans</I>
The part that concerns me is the "gradual reduction" bit, seems kinda silly because a lot of parts on a vehicle gradually fail. Would I be right in taking the tact that the bushings on the control arms have failed, causing the clunking sound (especially since this is a historical problem with the 4 series)? Anyone with experience in this, or an opinion, please chime in and let me know your thoughts.
Thanks,
Earnie
12-29-2003, 10:04 AM
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thats encouraging...
and I guess thats what this line says...
<I>A covered part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which is was designed solely because of its condition</I>
Out of curiousity, have you had LCA issues in your history ?
Thanks,
Earnie
<I>A covered part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which is was designed solely because of its condition</I>
Out of curiousity, have you had LCA issues in your history ?
Thanks,
Earnie
12-29-2003, 11:22 AM
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No problems to this point with LCA. Car is as solid as a rock except for:
The only problems I have/had with the car are:
Temp Sensor (replaced)
Cruise Control Controls (replaced)
Radio Display (replaced 2 times and still blinks)
"NEW"
Oil leak from around the timing belt cover (cam seals I'm guessing)
Trip display has lines appearing once in a while.
Having both of the above attended to during my 80K checkup.
Temp Sensor (replaced)
Cruise Control Controls (replaced)
Radio Display (replaced 2 times and still blinks)
"NEW"
Oil leak from around the timing belt cover (cam seals I'm guessing)
Trip display has lines appearing once in a while.
Having both of the above attended to during my 80K checkup.
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12-29-2003, 02:53 PM
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Sure.
Actual work done, two upper control arms, and a tie rod end plus crappy "alignment" (had to redo it elsewhere)
Two weeks downtime, mainly warr. adjuster slowness. They would not perform work unless car was at the shop and then they gave a few days window to "inspect". Would only get 1 day of rental reimbursed for every 4 hours of "shop time", up to 5 days.
$800+ charged to warranty company.
Tie rod end wasn't OEM, control arms look different too, I can only hope they were at least meant for the S4. Etka lists different part numbers for the APB motor vs the rest of them. I'm sure they were dimensionally accurate. I'd guess bushing differences. I had to replace the tie rod end, it was for an A6 or something.
If I had done it, like I was going to, but thought I might as well use the warranty.
---
Few hours downtime in the driveway. I'm no stranger to this sort of work.
Entire OEM tie rod, not just the outer end, ~$130.
Two OEM upper drivers side control arms, ~$120 each.
Warrantied way, ~$60 out of pocket for misc uncovered fees. Two weeks without car.
Do it myself, $370, down a few hours, I know it's done right the first time. Since I'm only replacing one side, if I get the tie rod adjusted to the point the steering wheel is straight again I can put off alignment for a while.
In the end I had to replace a tie rod end and get another alignment out of pocket anyway, I could have gone back and had it done the right way, but that'd take even more time than sucking it up and doing it myself. I ended up replacing both tie rods just so I wouldn't have to do the other and get yet another alignment later. IIRC bentley says the control arms can be replaced without "needing" an alignment.
Two weeks downtime, mainly warr. adjuster slowness. They would not perform work unless car was at the shop and then they gave a few days window to "inspect". Would only get 1 day of rental reimbursed for every 4 hours of "shop time", up to 5 days.
$800+ charged to warranty company.
Tie rod end wasn't OEM, control arms look different too, I can only hope they were at least meant for the S4. Etka lists different part numbers for the APB motor vs the rest of them. I'm sure they were dimensionally accurate. I'd guess bushing differences. I had to replace the tie rod end, it was for an A6 or something.
If I had done it, like I was going to, but thought I might as well use the warranty.
---
Few hours downtime in the driveway. I'm no stranger to this sort of work.
Entire OEM tie rod, not just the outer end, ~$130.
Two OEM upper drivers side control arms, ~$120 each.
Warrantied way, ~$60 out of pocket for misc uncovered fees. Two weeks without car.
Do it myself, $370, down a few hours, I know it's done right the first time. Since I'm only replacing one side, if I get the tie rod adjusted to the point the steering wheel is straight again I can put off alignment for a while.
In the end I had to replace a tie rod end and get another alignment out of pocket anyway, I could have gone back and had it done the right way, but that'd take even more time than sucking it up and doing it myself. I ended up replacing both tie rods just so I wouldn't have to do the other and get yet another alignment later. IIRC bentley says the control arms can be replaced without "needing" an alignment.