Feel like clutch is slipping!! how will i know for sure?
09-08-2001, 09:43 PM
#2
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A brutal method inside, normal methods first...
1: In sixth gear at 3000, rpm, floor it and see if the rpms rise faster than your speed.
2: Engage the parking brake, select 3rd, release the clutch, should stall right out.
Those only cover a really dead clutch.
Brutal: I haven't tried this, but in theory a healthy clutch should take it
a sick clutch needed to be replaced anyway.
1. Keep throttle to the floor the entire time.
2. Engage 2nd gear around 2000rpm, floor it, when the rpm reaches 6000, depress clutch, quickly engage third while keeping it floored, sidestep clutch, if you did this before the engine hit the rev limiter, the rpm should drop almost instantly to 4000-5000 rpm or so and the car should scoot.
If the clutch is weak, your rpm would stay over 6000 and you'd feel it slipping. You want to shift before the redline so you don't lose boost hitting it with the pedal floored.
2: Engage the parking brake, select 3rd, release the clutch, should stall right out.
Those only cover a really dead clutch.
Brutal: I haven't tried this, but in theory a healthy clutch should take it
a sick clutch needed to be replaced anyway. 1. Keep throttle to the floor the entire time.
2. Engage 2nd gear around 2000rpm, floor it, when the rpm reaches 6000, depress clutch, quickly engage third while keeping it floored, sidestep clutch, if you did this before the engine hit the rev limiter, the rpm should drop almost instantly to 4000-5000 rpm or so and the car should scoot.
If the clutch is weak, your rpm would stay over 6000 and you'd feel it slipping. You want to shift before the redline so you don't lose boost hitting it with the pedal floored.
09-08-2001, 10:21 PM
#3
Whoa!
I would only think my clutch is going if I noticed it on normal driving, if you have to make it slip to know, ours doesn't take a lot to make it squirm.
I would think your clutch should last a bit more given it's not slipping every day.
I would think your clutch should last a bit more given it's not slipping every day.
09-08-2001, 10:46 PM
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I've got 44k miles now, the clutch still seems fine, I think we don't need to worry: recipe inside!
about our stock clutches, Audi made them pretty resilent, it'd take a lot of intentional abuse to kill it. Witness Pat-Socal still ticking.
I think if you feel your clutch is weak or slipping you should go find some backroads and spend your day over 4000 rpm, shifting like you would a low torque engine, up down, up up down, always in the HP band, always smooth, always quick.
This is my happy trans/clutch/turbo ritual, do it once every few months if you don't get the chance more often, it seems to make the car happier, for me it results in quiet turbos, smooth clutch, smooth synchros.
still ticking. I think if you feel your clutch is weak or slipping you should go find some backroads and spend your day over 4000 rpm, shifting like you would a low torque engine, up down, up up down, always in the HP band, always smooth, always quick.
This is my happy trans/clutch/turbo ritual, do it once every few months if you don't get the chance more often, it seems to make the car happier, for me it results in quiet turbos, smooth clutch, smooth synchros.
09-08-2001, 10:51 PM
#5
Now you are on to something
I have felt the same 'happiness' in the car after spending 10 to 15 min in the 4K-6K rpms cruising along on the parkway.
Could it be that the oil lines get 'scrubbed'??
Could it be that the oil lines get 'scrubbed'??
09-08-2001, 10:59 PM
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I think so, I think it might also decarbon the exhaust side of the turbo.
My theory was that carbon deposits on the exhaust side of the turbo cause imbalance and impaired airflow, the high flow and high EGT's should clean it all up.
High rpm shifting should also make the transmission flow more oil and clean any deposits that might build up there, frequent high rpm clutching should deglaze any buildup on the clutch/pressure plate as well as make sure the self adjuster has adjusted.
I think the car was simply designed for 40-120+mph backroad GT stuff, that it does anything else well is just a happy extra.
High rpm shifting should also make the transmission flow more oil and clean any deposits that might build up there, frequent high rpm clutching should deglaze any buildup on the clutch/pressure plate as well as make sure the self adjuster has adjusted.
I think the car was simply designed for 40-120+mph backroad GT stuff, that it does anything else well is just a happy extra.
09-09-2001, 10:22 AM
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Re: Feel like clutch is slipping!! how will i know for sure?
does clutch engage high[foot just about off pedal before engagement]?to see if it slips,hit the gas hard while in 3rd gear,if rpms go up and car goes no where,clutch is slipping---dpd
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09-09-2001, 12:05 PM
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If you're using a good synthetic and don't "ride her hard and put her away wet",
and especially let the oil come up to temp on a cold engine before getting into the boost, then carbon deposts shouldn't be a problem.
09-09-2001, 01:00 PM
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I'm talking about normal carbon buildup in the exhaust system
not coking of the oil, proper cooldown after hard running is a must of course
This is a normal turbo condition, my theory is that a extended period of high turbo rpm and heat will clean the turbo blades and housing a bit.
From dieselpage.com
4. Noisy Turbocharger
CAUSE: Carbon build up in turbine housing.
SOLUTION: Clean housing or replace turbocharger - check engine operating procedures.
From http://www.simnet.is/david.comtec/claims.htm
5. Improved Performance
The improved turbo boost pressure performance of 1 to 1.5 psi (0.1 bar) has been shown to be proportional to the increase in engine power (up to 7%). This is due to an increase in the proportion of fuel that is burnt at the optimum point of combustion. The improved combustion reduces the soot and carbon that would otherwise collect on the turbo blades. This improvement in turbo efficiency is usually maintained for periods of up to 1 year; normally turbo boost pressure drops over the same period as carbon and soot start to collect on the turbo blades.
Carbon happens...
This is a normal turbo condition, my theory is that a extended period of high turbo rpm and heat will clean the turbo blades and housing a bit.
From dieselpage.com
4. Noisy Turbocharger
CAUSE: Carbon build up in turbine housing.
SOLUTION: Clean housing or replace turbocharger - check engine operating procedures.
From http://www.simnet.is/david.comtec/claims.htm
5. Improved Performance
The improved turbo boost pressure performance of 1 to 1.5 psi (0.1 bar) has been shown to be proportional to the increase in engine power (up to 7%). This is due to an increase in the proportion of fuel that is burnt at the optimum point of combustion. The improved combustion reduces the soot and carbon that would otherwise collect on the turbo blades. This improvement in turbo efficiency is usually maintained for periods of up to 1 year; normally turbo boost pressure drops over the same period as carbon and soot start to collect on the turbo blades.
Carbon happens...
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