Has anyone integrated a Sub Woofer into the factory HU?
#1
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When I get my S4 I will probably take the sub out
of my Home Theater and make a new enclosure for
it and have a single vented 12" for the car and
I also want to add my XM Delphi Sky-Fi to the S4.
Is there a way to solder in low level outputs into
the factory HU or does anyone make an adaptor that
has low level outputs I know PIE and BlitzSafe
make them for most GM Vehicles even those with
the Blows audio systems.
of my Home Theater and make a new enclosure for
it and have a single vented 12" for the car and
I also want to add my XM Delphi Sky-Fi to the S4.
Is there a way to solder in low level outputs into
the factory HU or does anyone make an adaptor that
has low level outputs I know PIE and BlitzSafe
make them for most GM Vehicles even those with
the Blows audio systems.
#2
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but tap into the rear speakers and run a rca's from them to your amp and then use your amps crossover for lowpass . OR you can buy my Pioneer dvd flip out screen with xm radio, tv tuner, sony antenna and changer for really cheap thats about 3500 worth of equipment that I am about to just give away.
#3
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Yep my sub amp does have a build in EQ selectable
between 50/80/125Hz and a defeatable Bass Boost
Circuit and Hi/Low Level inputs.
I *could* run off of the rear speaker wires if I
*had* to do that but I would prefer if I could
somehow tap into the back of the HU with Low Level
Ouputs.
At this point I don't think I will be swapping out
the stock HU right away as other mods will be on
my short list before audio. I am not interested in
a flip out DVD Screen or anything like that but I
am sure someone will be getting a good deal with
your equipment.
I am suprised no one has come in and flamed me yet
for saying I am going to take the sub out of my
HT and put it in my car
My HT sub was a custom
DIY job I did and it will work even better in the
car than it goes in my living room. I think I am
going with dual 15's in the house because my new
main 2 channel speakers are easily going to be
able to drown out most sub's
between 50/80/125Hz and a defeatable Bass Boost
Circuit and Hi/Low Level inputs.
I *could* run off of the rear speaker wires if I
*had* to do that but I would prefer if I could
somehow tap into the back of the HU with Low Level
Ouputs.
At this point I don't think I will be swapping out
the stock HU right away as other mods will be on
my short list before audio. I am not interested in
a flip out DVD Screen or anything like that but I
am sure someone will be getting a good deal with
your equipment.
I am suprised no one has come in and flamed me yet
for saying I am going to take the sub out of my
HT and put it in my car
![Smile](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
DIY job I did and it will work even better in the
car than it goes in my living room. I think I am
going with dual 15's in the house because my new
main 2 channel speakers are easily going to be
able to drown out most sub's
![Smile](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#4
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I wouldnt flame you because of the subs, I use car audio subs in my home theater. I have two 12" eclipse titanium subs with two 1000 watt xtant amps running them.
#5
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I am using a single 12" Stryke Audio wich is a
custom made driver built by TC Sounds for Stryke.
TC makes the drivers for the SvS subs.
It's Dumax'd at 23mm One Way Linear X-Max FS is
19Hz It can handle upwards of 600 watts continious
though I am only shoving 500wrms into it. I run
mine in an overdampened sealed enclosure with a
Bob Carver Sunfire TDC amp the enclosure is
roughly 14x14x16 or so..
The output just isn't going to be enough for my
new DIY Mains. The new Mains were designed for me
by Stryke Audio (The owner is a friend of mine)
they run 12 7" Woven Glass Midranges with 7mm One
Way excursion and 12 Silver Flute YAG Planar
Ribbon Tweeters per enclosure. They will extend
down into the mid 20's vented or into the 30's
Sealed (I am building mine vented but I can use
Port Plugs to fine tune the low end output.)
Initially they will be ran off Passive XO's and
fed via my Push/Pull 20 Watt Class A Tube Monoblocks
but eventually I am going with a DBX Drive Rack
Active Crossover Network and true Bi-Amplification.
I would like to hear about your home audio rig if
you don't mind.. The subs sound fantastic!
Got any photos?
custom made driver built by TC Sounds for Stryke.
TC makes the drivers for the SvS subs.
It's Dumax'd at 23mm One Way Linear X-Max FS is
19Hz It can handle upwards of 600 watts continious
though I am only shoving 500wrms into it. I run
mine in an overdampened sealed enclosure with a
Bob Carver Sunfire TDC amp the enclosure is
roughly 14x14x16 or so..
The output just isn't going to be enough for my
new DIY Mains. The new Mains were designed for me
by Stryke Audio (The owner is a friend of mine)
they run 12 7" Woven Glass Midranges with 7mm One
Way excursion and 12 Silver Flute YAG Planar
Ribbon Tweeters per enclosure. They will extend
down into the mid 20's vented or into the 30's
Sealed (I am building mine vented but I can use
Port Plugs to fine tune the low end output.)
Initially they will be ran off Passive XO's and
fed via my Push/Pull 20 Watt Class A Tube Monoblocks
but eventually I am going with a DBX Drive Rack
Active Crossover Network and true Bi-Amplification.
I would like to hear about your home audio rig if
you don't mind.. The subs sound fantastic!
Got any photos?
#6
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the symphony has Linelevel outputs that can be connected to a external amp (perferably with a crossover) for sub use.
or if you do it yourself, email me and i'll answer your questions.
or if you do it yourself, email me and i'll answer your questions.
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#10
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common ground). You can tap into it where it reaches your amp. I did this and got a LOT of alternator noise/whine so I ended up tapping into the rear speaker. Everything you need to know is in a tech article:<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec44.shtml">AW Tech article</a></li></ul>