I found that I have a Mityvac so I'd like to test the cracking pressure on my wastegates. Need help.
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<center><img src="http://www.freespaces.com/audisport44/gauge.jpg"></center><p>The unit is old and pretty beat up but it still seems to work fine. The gauge is throwing me off though. The needle doesn't seem to be resting in the correct position, I included a picture of it so you can see for yourself.
I have the line coming out of it hooked up the right way, it's "pulling" right now. Is the other outlet supposed to be left open or plugged? I'm asking this because when I hook it up to the wastegate, it starts opening at a certain pressure but the gauge won't budge. When I plug the other hole, the gauge starts moving as you pump it but it's not pulling(sucking). Am I doing something wrong?
And, the most important thing. The turbos I'm trying to adjust have RS6 comp wheels, no other mods. What PSI should I be setting the wastegates at? I've done some archive searching and seen some different answers. Something between 8 and even beyond 10 psi.
BTW, turbos are not in the car, have them on hand.
I have the line coming out of it hooked up the right way, it's "pulling" right now. Is the other outlet supposed to be left open or plugged? I'm asking this because when I hook it up to the wastegate, it starts opening at a certain pressure but the gauge won't budge. When I plug the other hole, the gauge starts moving as you pump it but it's not pulling(sucking). Am I doing something wrong?
And, the most important thing. The turbos I'm trying to adjust have RS6 comp wheels, no other mods. What PSI should I be setting the wastegates at? I've done some archive searching and seen some different answers. Something between 8 and even beyond 10 psi.
BTW, turbos are not in the car, have them on hand.
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The gauge doesn't work until you plug the second port? When I adjusted my WGs with a mityvac there was no plugging necessary.
To be completely honest, I don't see the importance of tweaking the WGs beyond borg warner's specs. The most important thing is making sure they open at the same pressure. If you are having a boost taper problem (not sure taper is a problem), then you need to start tweaking the WG crack pressure until the taper problem is solved. The actual pressure is inconsequetial. Just make sure they open at the same time.
Also, you need to send your turbos off for the appropriate hot side mods;-)
To be completely honest, I don't see the importance of tweaking the WGs beyond borg warner's specs. The most important thing is making sure they open at the same pressure. If you are having a boost taper problem (not sure taper is a problem), then you need to start tweaking the WG crack pressure until the taper problem is solved. The actual pressure is inconsequetial. Just make sure they open at the same time.
Also, you need to send your turbos off for the appropriate hot side mods;-)
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Many vac gauges go counterclockwise. Makes it easy to tell a vac from a pressure gauge at a glance.
Also, without clearancing/other mods your wg's are going to be forced open with Turbine Inlet Pressure... You'll have to set em high. Make sure you check how far the WG's can open with your selected preload.
Also, without clearancing/other mods your wg's are going to be forced open with Turbine Inlet Pressure... You'll have to set em high. Make sure you check how far the WG's can open with your selected preload.
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It is when I apply PRESSURE that the wastegate starts opening but the gauge doesn't move. When I plug the vacuum port, the gauge starts moving but at that point it won't preduce any more pressure.
When I received the turbos back from being rebuilt, the actuator flaps were pretty loose. I only adjusted them by feel so the flaps are just tight enough when they are at their resting position.
I can't have any boost taper problems because the turbos aren't even in the car, as I mentioned.
Oh and what do you mean I need to send the turbos off for the appropiate hot side mods? Are you thinking clearancing? I'm not sure how important it REALLY is, if that's what you are reffering to.
When I received the turbos back from being rebuilt, the actuator flaps were pretty loose. I only adjusted them by feel so the flaps are just tight enough when they are at their resting position.
I can't have any boost taper problems because the turbos aren't even in the car, as I mentioned.
Oh and what do you mean I need to send the turbos off for the appropiate hot side mods? Are you thinking clearancing? I'm not sure how important it REALLY is, if that's what you are reffering to.
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s the left. I guess I need to get a different unit.
You are talking about clearancing too, please elaborate on it. How important is it and why? Am I being stupid if I don't do it and put the turbos in the way they are?
You are talking about clearancing too, please elaborate on it. How important is it and why? Am I being stupid if I don't do it and put the turbos in the way they are?
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You need to open-up the hotsides via clearancing, they just can't flow enough to support the RS6 wheel stock.
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With a gauge hooked up to my exhaust manifold, I measured ~4-5 more psi turbine inlet pressure than Miked2kS4@ASP did and he was making about 2psi more boost than I @ redline. I'd say that's a sea change in the airflow/exhaust restriction relationship.
My two rec's: Get your turbos clearanced and do not use MTM stgV S/W without the head gaskets. I will not hesitate to pull out the "I told you so."
My two rec's: Get your turbos clearanced and do not use MTM stgV S/W without the head gaskets. I will not hesitate to pull out the "I told you so."
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The closer I think I get to putting these turbos in and running them the right way...the farther I get. I'm close to a point where it seems like this is never going to happen :/