If the crank is turned while the cam lock bar is on, will the timing be messed up?
#11
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if so, you should be able to tell where the crank needs to be, turn it back the direction it turned. You would have to turn the crank some 90+ degrees to really screw anything up. So just turn it back to line up the timing marks.
I would not suggest using the method mentioned in the aw tech article. You CAN however, get the belt over the cam pulleys without removing them, just be sure the tensioner is completely compressed and you will need to do some tugging. The cam lock bar also allows you to remove the cam sprockets without removing the cam bar, which allows you to keep the motor at TDC.
Once you get the tb back on, turn the motor by hand (crank bolt) a few times and make sure the timing marks all line up again..i.e. the cam lock bar can go back on and the crank timing mark is lined up near the tab again.
I would not suggest using the method mentioned in the aw tech article. You CAN however, get the belt over the cam pulleys without removing them, just be sure the tensioner is completely compressed and you will need to do some tugging. The cam lock bar also allows you to remove the cam sprockets without removing the cam bar, which allows you to keep the motor at TDC.
Once you get the tb back on, turn the motor by hand (crank bolt) a few times and make sure the timing marks all line up again..i.e. the cam lock bar can go back on and the crank timing mark is lined up near the tab again.
#12
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it does not matter what teeth you line up to on the cam sprockets, they are capable of coming off and spining completely around withOUT turning the cams themselves, they are held on by friction.
You just need to make sure the cam lock bar is on, and the crank timing marks line up, then you have TDC, then install belt.
You just need to make sure the cam lock bar is on, and the crank timing marks line up, then you have TDC, then install belt.
#13
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here is an old video i rehosted onto youtube.
Basically what you need is a 3-jaw gear puller, you can get at any auto parts store. You want to remove the cam sprocket WITH the cam bar still on, this allows you to keep the motor at TDC and still remove the cam sprockets, the cam sprockets spin the cams by friction, so once you loosen the single bolt that holds the cam sprocket on, it will come off (with the tug from the 3-jaw puller) and then it will look like so (see video)
<img src="http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/pics/PUG084C_3jaw.jpg"><ul><li><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjAVHWEhD0U">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjAVHWEhD0U</a</li></ul>
Basically what you need is a 3-jaw gear puller, you can get at any auto parts store. You want to remove the cam sprocket WITH the cam bar still on, this allows you to keep the motor at TDC and still remove the cam sprockets, the cam sprockets spin the cams by friction, so once you loosen the single bolt that holds the cam sprocket on, it will come off (with the tug from the 3-jaw puller) and then it will look like so (see video)
<img src="http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/pics/PUG084C_3jaw.jpg"><ul><li><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjAVHWEhD0U">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjAVHWEhD0U</a</li></ul>
#15
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In which case, it seems it would have to be marked exactly the same for the tensioning to be correct.
#16
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service. especially if youre not going to do it properly (with a crank lock pin, and popping the sprockets)...
i think its going over your head a little... it has nothing to do with the teeth lining up on the belt.
i think its going over your head a little... it has nothing to do with the teeth lining up on the belt.
#17
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sprockets. I read that a long time ago, and it wasn't until after I got the Bentley manual that I found out about doing it properly by loosening the gears.
At this point, you need to get a crank lock pin and get it in there, then get a gear puller and pop the sprockets, then put on the belt and torque the tensioner correctly (you have a torque wrench, right?) to put the correct tension on the belt as you tighten the sprockets back on. You either need to search the forum more or get the Bentley Manual as well to make sure you're not missing anything else. That tech article misses big because it doesn't talk about removing the sprockets and tensioning the belt properly.
Good luck!
At this point, you need to get a crank lock pin and get it in there, then get a gear puller and pop the sprockets, then put on the belt and torque the tensioner correctly (you have a torque wrench, right?) to put the correct tension on the belt as you tighten the sprockets back on. You either need to search the forum more or get the Bentley Manual as well to make sure you're not missing anything else. That tech article misses big because it doesn't talk about removing the sprockets and tensioning the belt properly.
Good luck!
#18
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
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would be helpful.
I.e., it's hard to know what I'm doing if I don't fully understand how the parts of the engine work together.
I have an engineering degree, so I'm not retarded, and I've gotten the car apart, so I'm not technically inept.
I.e., it's hard to know what I'm doing if I don't fully understand how the parts of the engine work together.
I have an engineering degree, so I'm not retarded, and I've gotten the car apart, so I'm not technically inept.
#19
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my opinion - having a degree does not make you smart on everything. i don't have a college education and have never worked on cars before buying my s4 and can take anything aparts on it now. if you can't figure out how it works find a way to get that information via a book, internet or thes forums, ask people etc.
#20
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Start over. Find crank TDC. Use the crank lock pin. Pop the sprockets (it's the only thing you haven't done yet). Put it back together properly, with everything timed correctly, and don't leave yourself with a reason to have to do it again. IMHO, not popping the sprockets is the half-assed way.
Oh, and, a nice friendly 'good luck!'
Oh, and, a nice friendly 'good luck!'