Jacking the front and using jack stands...
#1
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Well, I usually put the car up on ramps, but that's not gonna work for dp install.
I can't fit a jack on the jacking pad spots and still manage to get a jackstand on the frame rails in the front. Yeah, I tried both on the frame rail, and on the lift points.
Anyone have any other favorite spots for lifting the front?
(I'm not using the emergency jack, it doesn't go up high enough)
I can't fit a jack on the jacking pad spots and still manage to get a jackstand on the frame rails in the front. Yeah, I tried both on the frame rail, and on the lift points.
Anyone have any other favorite spots for lifting the front?
(I'm not using the emergency jack, it doesn't go up high enough)
#2
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<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/905070.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/905070.phtml</a</li></ul>
#3
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I've been setting the jack a little bit back from the lift points. While it causes me a lot of stress, it seems to work. You might stick a large board on the jack (at/under the jack point) to distribute the weight a little better.
Good luck.
Andrew
Good luck.
Andrew
#4
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Cant get the jackstand in position doing that tho, jack is in the way (and I tried all sorts of angles)
#5
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use 2x8" wood boards to make a small lift ramp. when the car is on these in the front, you'll be able to put a hydraulic jack under the lift points you need, and then jack stands where the lower suspension arms bolt to the frame of the car.
for these small ramps, get enough 2x8 wood to make two 3' sections, and two 2' section (some yards sell 2x's in 6 foot sections)
cut 45 degree angle cuts in one end of each 2' and 3' peice.
take the 2 foot sections, use wood screws and glue to layer these.
when you want to jack the car, put these wooden ramps down, and the car rolls right up on them easily. you can move them when the car is jacked up.
when you are finished and lowering the car, make sure to replace the ramps or you can't get teh jack out!
for these small ramps, get enough 2x8 wood to make two 3' sections, and two 2' section (some yards sell 2x's in 6 foot sections)
cut 45 degree angle cuts in one end of each 2' and 3' peice.
take the 2 foot sections, use wood screws and glue to layer these.
when you want to jack the car, put these wooden ramps down, and the car rolls right up on them easily. you can move them when the car is jacked up.
when you are finished and lowering the car, make sure to replace the ramps or you can't get teh jack out!
#6
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If your jack has enough capacity and you are using a pinch weld adapter, jack up the car underneath the B pillar so you can put a jack stand under the lift point. Be very careful doing this as the entire side will come up, tail first. Engage the handbrake and put the trans in gear.
Or you can get a low profile long reach DK jack underneath the subframe mounts.
Or you can get a low profile long reach DK jack underneath the subframe mounts.
#7
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1. Jack the car up one side at a time.
2. Install ramp under each side, but orient it 180 degrees from the normal "drive up" orientation, so you leave the jacking point area clear.
3. The jack should now slide under the subframe. Continue raising the car.
4. Place the stands out by the pinch welds as desired.
5. Drop the car onto the jack stands.
2. Install ramp under each side, but orient it 180 degrees from the normal "drive up" orientation, so you leave the jacking point area clear.
3. The jack should now slide under the subframe. Continue raising the car.
4. Place the stands out by the pinch welds as desired.
5. Drop the car onto the jack stands.
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