Just want to share my 60mm Omori electric boost gauge pics.
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<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/18183/gauge-day-2.jpg"></center><p>Installed last weekend. Vent can be returned to stock. I used sheet metal to create the gauge surround rather than plastic. Painting it flat black is a perfect match. Only disapointment is that the needle is not white enough to match the OEM gauges.<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/18183/gauge-night.jpg">
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I have the same thing, just with a 52mm. Kinda wishing now I had gone with a 60mm. :-[
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/784/omori.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/784/omori-night.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/784/omori-view.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/784/omori.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/784/omori-night.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/784/omori-view.jpg">
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The wiring of the gauge was really straight forward using both the instructions that came with the gauge and Taner's really good write up. In addition, Omori supplies all of the wiring as harnesses, so it is just a matter of routing the wiring, securing it, wiring up to power and plugging the harnesses together.
As far as the gauge mount is concerned, that was a bit touch and go. I wanted to use plastic/acrylic for the face, but didn't have any. A good friend has access to metal and tools, so I used sheet metal.
First thing I did was to remove the center vent console (the 3 vents together) which just pulls out. From behind, the flap that closes of the left and center vents is easily removed (and thus can be returned to stock) by just prying it gently from the edges. I chose to use the center vent, but the left vent could have been used just the same. I then used a cardboard mold to get the exact size of the vent opening and just transferred it to the sheet metal. At first I had planned on having small flanges bent back on the sides or top/bottom to secure the face plate into the vent console. I soon figured out that any screw mounted into the sides or top would interfere with the movement of adjacent vents or would prevent the console from being able to return to the dash.
I then cut a 60+mm circle at the center of the sheet metal using a drill bit adapter/hole cutter from Home Depot. I then used a Dremel stone disk to enlarge the opening so that the gauge just slide into the opening. When the face plate was ready, I prepped it and painted it with 4 coats of flat black spray paint from a can.
I then mounted the face plate into the vent opening and used silicone to secure the face plate from behind. I decided to use silicone as it is strong enough to secure the plate with gauge attached, and it would seal the face plate against air blowing by that might whistle.
I then inserted the gauge into the face plate opening, and sealed it from behind with the silicone. The omori guages come with a bracket that secures the guage to any face plate it is mounted to, so I used it to secure the whole thing.
When the silicone was completely dry, I decided that neither the face plate nor the gauge were going anywhere, so I left them as is without reinforcement. I was actually surprised how solidly the whole thing sits in there.
Without alot of the trial and error, this could have been done in 3-4 hours. The wiring is by far the easiest. The only permanent changes were:
1- You have to drill a hole posteriorly on the left lateral wall of the vent duct. Once you are on your back, your head laying next to the accelerator pedal, looking up into the space behind the instrument cluster, it is clear where you can safely drill. I just had my friend drill while I watched to make sure the drill bit avoided all of the $$$ electronics up there.
2- When you remove the vent where you want to mount the face plate, the opening narrows a bit as you go towards the back of the vent console. There is a little plastic sharp lip inferiorly that might prevent the 60mm gauge from pushing all the way back into the console. I just dremeled it flat, taking the lip down~ 1-2mm so that it is flush. This does not affect the vent if returned to stock. THe lip just serves as an edge against which the rubber on the vent closing flap rests.
By the way I know this sounds confusing, but when you remove the vent console it becomes really obvious. By using the left or center position, and removing the closure flap like I did, you do lose the ability to close the leftmost (in my setup) vent. I never close it so it doesn't bother me!
Feel free to email me with anymore questions!
I'll try and get some better shots tomorrow
As far as the gauge mount is concerned, that was a bit touch and go. I wanted to use plastic/acrylic for the face, but didn't have any. A good friend has access to metal and tools, so I used sheet metal.
First thing I did was to remove the center vent console (the 3 vents together) which just pulls out. From behind, the flap that closes of the left and center vents is easily removed (and thus can be returned to stock) by just prying it gently from the edges. I chose to use the center vent, but the left vent could have been used just the same. I then used a cardboard mold to get the exact size of the vent opening and just transferred it to the sheet metal. At first I had planned on having small flanges bent back on the sides or top/bottom to secure the face plate into the vent console. I soon figured out that any screw mounted into the sides or top would interfere with the movement of adjacent vents or would prevent the console from being able to return to the dash.
I then cut a 60+mm circle at the center of the sheet metal using a drill bit adapter/hole cutter from Home Depot. I then used a Dremel stone disk to enlarge the opening so that the gauge just slide into the opening. When the face plate was ready, I prepped it and painted it with 4 coats of flat black spray paint from a can.
I then mounted the face plate into the vent opening and used silicone to secure the face plate from behind. I decided to use silicone as it is strong enough to secure the plate with gauge attached, and it would seal the face plate against air blowing by that might whistle.
I then inserted the gauge into the face plate opening, and sealed it from behind with the silicone. The omori guages come with a bracket that secures the guage to any face plate it is mounted to, so I used it to secure the whole thing.
When the silicone was completely dry, I decided that neither the face plate nor the gauge were going anywhere, so I left them as is without reinforcement. I was actually surprised how solidly the whole thing sits in there.
Without alot of the trial and error, this could have been done in 3-4 hours. The wiring is by far the easiest. The only permanent changes were:
1- You have to drill a hole posteriorly on the left lateral wall of the vent duct. Once you are on your back, your head laying next to the accelerator pedal, looking up into the space behind the instrument cluster, it is clear where you can safely drill. I just had my friend drill while I watched to make sure the drill bit avoided all of the $$$ electronics up there.
2- When you remove the vent where you want to mount the face plate, the opening narrows a bit as you go towards the back of the vent console. There is a little plastic sharp lip inferiorly that might prevent the 60mm gauge from pushing all the way back into the console. I just dremeled it flat, taking the lip down~ 1-2mm so that it is flush. This does not affect the vent if returned to stock. THe lip just serves as an edge against which the rubber on the vent closing flap rests.
By the way I know this sounds confusing, but when you remove the vent console it becomes really obvious. By using the left or center position, and removing the closure flap like I did, you do lose the ability to close the leftmost (in my setup) vent. I never close it so it doesn't bother me!
Feel free to email me with anymore questions!
I'll try and get some better shots tomorrow
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