Looking into a 2000-2002 2.7 TT Audi S4, questions.
06-08-2007, 10:40 AM
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Looking into a 2000-2002 2.7 TT Audi S4, questions.
I just recently totaled an 04 Mustang GT by hitting a bear on the highway.
http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa104/FalconGuy016/
I was looking into the 2000-2002 Audi S4 since it is in my price range and mileage range when I get my insurance check, and maybe after I sell the parts I stripped off the Mustang I'll have a larger budget. I'm looking in the 16-19k range.
I wanted AWD (for slightly better performance in the snow I get around here) and turbo, and this car seem to fit my bill. I wanted to see what can be done to get more power out of this car. I briefly read up on chipping the car and it seems you can get 50+ hp out of simply doing that (which is astounding coming from Mustangs, which gave you hardly anything for a chip because of N/a).
I was wondering what else could be done for more power and how much it would cost, assuming I did the work on my own.
The main concern I have though is the drive train. I read that the bottom end of the block is stout, but I worry about the AWD drive train and transmission. How does it hold up to extra power? In fact, how does it hold up at all? I'm looking at these cars with about 60-70k on them.
Are there reasonable options to beef up the drive train? I don't want things breaking on me if possible.
Second is the weight. It appears that these cars weigh 3600-3700 pounds which surprised me. My mustang weighed sub 3300 and when I had a passengers putting my car around that weight range the difference was INCREDIBLE. Stock for stock I'm losing 10 hp and gaining hundreds of pounds. I was wondering if the drive train could handle this extra weight when the power is upped a bit.
Due to the weight I'm looking for at least 320+ at the crank. What can I do to achieve this safely?
Thanks
http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa104/FalconGuy016/
I was looking into the 2000-2002 Audi S4 since it is in my price range and mileage range when I get my insurance check, and maybe after I sell the parts I stripped off the Mustang I'll have a larger budget. I'm looking in the 16-19k range.
I wanted AWD (for slightly better performance in the snow I get around here) and turbo, and this car seem to fit my bill. I wanted to see what can be done to get more power out of this car. I briefly read up on chipping the car and it seems you can get 50+ hp out of simply doing that (which is astounding coming from Mustangs, which gave you hardly anything for a chip because of N/a).
I was wondering what else could be done for more power and how much it would cost, assuming I did the work on my own.
The main concern I have though is the drive train. I read that the bottom end of the block is stout, but I worry about the AWD drive train and transmission. How does it hold up to extra power? In fact, how does it hold up at all? I'm looking at these cars with about 60-70k on them.
Are there reasonable options to beef up the drive train? I don't want things breaking on me if possible.
Second is the weight. It appears that these cars weigh 3600-3700 pounds which surprised me. My mustang weighed sub 3300 and when I had a passengers putting my car around that weight range the difference was INCREDIBLE. Stock for stock I'm losing 10 hp and gaining hundreds of pounds. I was wondering if the drive train could handle this extra weight when the power is upped a bit.
Due to the weight I'm looking for at least 320+ at the crank. What can I do to achieve this safely?
Thanks
06-08-2007, 11:00 AM
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I've yet to see a post yet where someone's 'quattro' was broken.
As stated, turbos are the big cost, not just in parts but because it requires an engine pull to get to them.
And, with k04s, you need a bunch of other expensive stuff (clutch, for one, maybe ICs) that increase the bill quite a bit.
And getting 320 at the crank is pretty darn easy. Chip alone, with some minor software tweaks, can get you there.
Here are some ideas for weight reduction:
aftermarket exhaust: $600-$1200. The stock exhaust is a pig.
Remove spare tire (you should have AAA anyway).
Some have removed their sunroof (parts and motor are around 40 lbs)
Light weight battery.
Lighter wheels (some good ones out there at 18 lbs).
Too much beyond that and you begin to lose the sweetness of the S4, that is its comfort as a daily driver.
And, with k04s, you need a bunch of other expensive stuff (clutch, for one, maybe ICs) that increase the bill quite a bit.
And getting 320 at the crank is pretty darn easy. Chip alone, with some minor software tweaks, can get you there.
Here are some ideas for weight reduction:
aftermarket exhaust: $600-$1200. The stock exhaust is a pig.
Remove spare tire (you should have AAA anyway).
Some have removed their sunroof (parts and motor are around 40 lbs)
Light weight battery.
Lighter wheels (some good ones out there at 18 lbs).
Too much beyond that and you begin to lose the sweetness of the S4, that is its comfort as a daily driver.
06-08-2007, 11:12 AM
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Stage 1-2 can get you 320+... and you'll have fun beating on Stangs. These cars are
pigs, but the gobs of torque combats it well. The car handles extra power well, just have to upgrade a few things (TBB, DVs, F-hose, clutch if you go stage 3, maybe tranny/engine mounts if you plan to launch a lot)
Watch my videos in my sig. My opinion is that if you get an S4 you'll be amazed with the power you can make and won't look back.
Watch my videos in my sig. My opinion is that if you get an S4 you'll be amazed with the power you can make and won't look back.
06-08-2007, 11:46 AM
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take a look at my site
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/48484/album_pic.php.jpg"></center><p><ul><li><a href="http://homepage.mac.com/edyjun1/S4/index.htm">EdyJun's S4 Directory (FAQ, DIY, Info, Tips and Help)</a></li></ul>
06-08-2007, 12:06 PM
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just look for a already lightly mod'd s4 with records of synthetic oil changes
have the front control arms and cv boots inspected, also make sure the t belt was done at 70ish k miles.
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06-08-2007, 04:36 PM
#8
A properly maintained Stage 3 S4 is very reliable, and probably the best buy....(more)
I've had mine at Stage 3 (450-500bhp) for over two years without a single issue. A few guys on here have driven 100K miles while at stage 3, a testament to the drivetrain's reliability.
There have been a few cars that have broken a front axle, but all were at stage 3 power, and launching it at redline, which, if you don't already know, is the worst thing you can do to an AWD car.
When you are ready to buy, try to find someone knowledgeable of this car to look at it. I would be more than happy to help you, but, unfortunately, its hard to give sound buying advice on a car I've never seen.
There have been a few cars that have broken a front axle, but all were at stage 3 power, and launching it at redline, which, if you don't already know, is the worst thing you can do to an AWD car.
When you are ready to buy, try to find someone knowledgeable of this car to look at it. I would be more than happy to help you, but, unfortunately, its hard to give sound buying advice on a car I've never seen.
06-08-2007, 08:23 PM
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I'd sell you mine for about that...
2000 Laser Red stage 2+
59,xxx miles
stg2+ = chip-exhaust-down pipes (about 320-350 hp at the crank)
you mentioned you get snow... where do you live?
59,xxx miles
stg2+ = chip-exhaust-down pipes (about 320-350 hp at the crank)
you mentioned you get snow... where do you live?
06-08-2007, 09:55 PM
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coming from a mustang gt, you're going to be very surprised, in a good way
A stage 2 car will pull on a mustang GT. When my car was a stage 2+, it happily pulled on a Cobra. If you can bide your time, and find a stage 3 S4 (it'll be a little pricier), you'll have a grin like a little boy on a ride at disneyland.
Drivetrain is solid on these cars. Very few people have damaged/broke anything in there. You don't need to beef up anything. As long as you have a strong clutch in there, you're gold.
320 at the crank? That's a stage 2 car. Stage 3 cars are 400+ at the crank. Yeah, weight wise, they're pigs, but you won't really notice it. Hell, when my car dyno'd at stage 2+, it still had 412 wtq.
Find a K04 car if you can, and work from there.
Drivetrain is solid on these cars. Very few people have damaged/broke anything in there. You don't need to beef up anything. As long as you have a strong clutch in there, you're gold.
320 at the crank? That's a stage 2 car. Stage 3 cars are 400+ at the crank. Yeah, weight wise, they're pigs, but you won't really notice it. Hell, when my car dyno'd at stage 2+, it still had 412 wtq.
Find a K04 car if you can, and work from there.