Max recommended height for stasis tracksports?
#24
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I haven't finished the install yet. The closer we get to winter the more I am thinking it makes sense just to set them high initially and then lower them come the spring and get the car corner balanced then (if I don't buy my own scales now).
I'm not so much worried about setting them as what it might do to the geometry. One inch higher will probably reduce negative camber and could produce more bump steer.
Stephen
I'm not so much worried about setting them as what it might do to the geometry. One inch higher will probably reduce negative camber and could produce more bump steer.
Stephen
#25
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but then you'd really want to check toe.
Being up around stock height++ would help to get camber around 0, which probably isn't a bad thing for snow traction.
I would set them high now, it's a lot easier to lower than raise assuming the springs have any sort of preload.
Being up around stock height++ would help to get camber around 0, which probably isn't a bad thing for snow traction.
I would set them high now, it's a lot easier to lower than raise assuming the springs have any sort of preload.
#26
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<center><img src="http://gallery.rennlist.com/albums/albuq92/STaSIS_2954a.sized.jpg"></center><p>How can you raise the tie-rods? You cannot. Not unless you had some sort of modified tie rod ends with longer bolts.
I think you are right about setting it at stock ride height. That makes a lot of sense. I probably will do that initially for the winter. Minimum bump-steer and about zero camber. Ideal. There probably is little sense in going above that. This isn't an off-road vehicle after all..
There should be little or no pre-load on the springs. Might be just a little on the front at stock ride height but not a lot.
Now I wonder what the ideal spring rate would be? :-p
Stephen
I think you are right about setting it at stock ride height. That makes a lot of sense. I probably will do that initially for the winter. Minimum bump-steer and about zero camber. Ideal. There probably is little sense in going above that. This isn't an off-road vehicle after all..
There should be little or no pre-load on the springs. Might be just a little on the front at stock ride height but not a lot.
Now I wonder what the ideal spring rate would be? :-p
Stephen
#27
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You can raise and lower the tie rod ends about 3/8", beyond that would need special ends or machining.
I wouldn't worry about it unless you have bump steer issues. I had bump issues on one side of the car, one of my tie rods had been moved to the top of it's travel. I put it even with the other side that didn't have problem and it was fixed. I posted about it in the archives a long time ago, full alignment is supposed to cover it.
I wouldn't worry about it unless you have bump steer issues. I had bump issues on one side of the car, one of my tie rods had been moved to the top of it's travel. I put it even with the other side that didn't have problem and it was fixed. I posted about it in the archives a long time ago, full alignment is supposed to cover it.
#28
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I had been intending to look at the steering rack later to see if it could be lowered a little when I lowered the car. If so, that would be a good solution to bump-steer problems on a lowered car. But I didn't realise that the tie-rod ends could be raised and lowered.
Anyway, if I leave it at stock for now I shouldn't have to worry about any of this until the spring and then I can get it completely sorted then. :-)
Stephen
Anyway, if I leave it at stock for now I shouldn't have to worry about any of this until the spring and then I can get it completely sorted then. :-)
Stephen