My engine is fvcked. Blackstone oil analysis --> coolant in oil. Help! (esp DAP & LI-S4)
10-19-2006, 04:41 PM
#11
Maybe I suck at the reading comprehension, but Jacob is talking coolant getting into the oil via the
turbo, not just loosing coolant.
But then you state that at the end of your post.
But then you state that at the end of your post.
10-19-2006, 04:44 PM
#13
hmm maybe i can file a claim about bad valve seals at only 47K miles and that
my car could of been a polluter for months/years prior to finding this issue.
Still under the 50K mile warranty rule and under my emissions warranty
Still under the 50K mile warranty rule and under my emissions warranty
10-19-2006, 05:16 PM
#14
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In my experience, i have never seen a crack develop in a bearing housing
that would allow coolant to enter the oil passage. I have seen a cracked bearing housing when a car is in an accident, but at that point the car is undriveable so you wouldn't be running the turbocharger like that.
You may have lost coolant, but the loss of coolant was not internally in the bearing housing where it mixed into the oil passages.
You may have lost coolant, but the loss of coolant was not internally in the bearing housing where it mixed into the oil passages.
10-19-2006, 06:08 PM
#15
Wow...far worse than mine was...
I had the RMS and Head Gaskets done at the same time (valve cover gaskets, turbo's, motor and tranny mounts, clutch, LWFW etc as well). The RMS looked a horror...I have only pics of the cylinders after te heads were off... Not sure which it was that was the culprit, but it is fixed so this will narrow it down for you
Get on that quickly.
If you are unable to tear the motor down in the immediate future give Bars Leaks a try. It is more than just a temporary fix. A few other AW'rs have used it successfully on healthy stage III cars. Available at Pep Boys..
Get on that quickly.
If you are unable to tear the motor down in the immediate future give Bars Leaks a try. It is more than just a temporary fix. A few other AW'rs have used it successfully on healthy stage III cars. Available at Pep Boys..
10-19-2006, 09:44 PM
#17
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So what's a good plan of attack? Change the oil this weekend, do Bars Leaks, redo oil analysis
in 1-2 weeks? Can I just use **** oil...or should I dump M-$$ in again to keep in consistent?
10-19-2006, 09:46 PM
#18
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Thanks for the reassurance =p Could you suggest a gameplan? If I do Bars leaks
should I do that for X days before I change the oil? And after I change the oil, how long until I do another oil analysis? There's so much coolant in there I doubt I'd have to wait too long...
I think I might cry....or ship the car to a remote parking lot in NJ
I think I might cry....or ship the car to a remote parking lot in NJ
10-20-2006, 02:12 AM
#19
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I'd get new oil in it immediately. I switched to regular oil while
I was trying to gauge how bad the problem was since it was being changed between 700-1000 miles. I just didn't feel like spending the money on synthetic oil for that few miles.
After trying a few options that failed to resolve the issue I was looking at a major step up in costs, to the thousands of dollars level, and decided that with a decent possibility I'd need a new engine block, pushing potential costs to nearly half the cars value, it was worth trying the bars leaks.
I'd recommend replacing the oil and getting the problem looked at. Send another oil sample off in about 750 miles so you get an idea of the severity of the loss, though you should be able to get an idea by how much the coolant drops.
Find a place that's pretty flat where you can park the car overnight in the exact same spot, and make a reference mark on your coolant reservoir. Have the coolant filled to your reference mark, or make the mark where your coolant level is at, and monitor it closely by checking it when the engine is cold.
There have been a number of people with this problem, but there doesn't seem to be a common cause, at least as far as I know.
After trying a few options that failed to resolve the issue I was looking at a major step up in costs, to the thousands of dollars level, and decided that with a decent possibility I'd need a new engine block, pushing potential costs to nearly half the cars value, it was worth trying the bars leaks.
I'd recommend replacing the oil and getting the problem looked at. Send another oil sample off in about 750 miles so you get an idea of the severity of the loss, though you should be able to get an idea by how much the coolant drops.
Find a place that's pretty flat where you can park the car overnight in the exact same spot, and make a reference mark on your coolant reservoir. Have the coolant filled to your reference mark, or make the mark where your coolant level is at, and monitor it closely by checking it when the engine is cold.
There have been a number of people with this problem, but there doesn't seem to be a common cause, at least as far as I know.
10-20-2006, 03:37 AM
#20
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For oil, I've been using Shell Rotella T 5W40... cheaper than M1 but still decent.
My plan of attack was to pull the engine and replace headgaskets and RMS, but that doesn't appear to have fixed the issue in my case. 
-Dave Pramanik
-Dave Pramanik