S4Dean

is loosened. I'm trying to turn the 18mm nut clockwise while counteracting that force on the flat part of the tie rod end with an adjustable crescent wrench. I sprayed a bunch of PB Blaster on that area but it's only sat for about a half hour. Am I going to have to protect the inner tie rod boot with a wet rag and torch this area? That's my last resort as I don't want to damage the boot and have to replace the whole tie rod. Any tips on making this happen easier? Thanks!!

S4NIC8

use a condom

The_Jerbel (Jordan)

hammer

Also, get a bigger wrench and use mo powa!

Ragdoll

Mine were stuck. PB Blaster for a few hours and heat from a torch got it loose.

RuS4ty

Oh, and a longer wrench so that the handle rests on the springs while you crank the other way helps.

s4stylee

I would just reach up from underneath the car with a long 18mm wrench and crack the nut loose from there its much easier to get some linear torque on the nut. Thats how I adjust the tie rods for my alignments. Once you get the nut to move it should be easier to unscrew the whole tie-rod. Also I wouldn't try doing this unless the tie rod is still bolted to the upright. This will keep it from spinning when your trying to really put some torque on it.

JohnKo

used to counterhold as you unscrew the end. I get that the problem is it doesn't want to unscrew, but I think once the lock nut is loose you should be trying to turn the TRE, not the 18mm flats.
Am I wrong?

S4Dean

to give you force to turn the TRE counterclockwise and unscrew it. I let the PB Blaster soak over night so I'll give it another go tonight. I'll try knocking that area with a hammer (like suggested) and if that still doesn't work just use the torch. I'm getting impatient at this point. Everytime I go to do something (during my coilover/control arm/TRE install) the rust on the components creates a pain in the a$$ situation. I will definitely never buy another car from the Northeast